Looking at a 96 legacy wagon,  2.2 automatic.

 

Seller says, it runs fine after 10 minutes.    and that the check engine light is on.  Any ideas?   Cost to fix it?

That really doesn't tell us anything. Tell us why it takes 10 minutes and then it drives fine???? If it takes that long to heat the engine up and seal the rings, it is only a matter of time before it manifests into a major problem but I am only guessing. If the CEL is on, running the code to tell you an idea of the problem would give you an idea of the headache you are looking at. 

No (good) idea w/out the code. I'd get a $20 OBD2 scanner @ Wally world or similar and take it w/you. You'll likely need for any car you you buy or WANT to buy.

 

"after 10 minutes' could be the CTS (coolant temp sensor) being bad. Cheap but not the easiest to replace (compared to an air filter :-) ).

I understand.  It's in an ad and its not near my house.  I have a OBD2 scanner, but I would have to drive 6 hrs to check it. 

Just make sure the price is lower than the worst couple of things that could be wrong, compared to a properly running one.

 

For me, I'll fix pretty much anything if the body is rust free.

First thing I would look for is a vacuum leak. Especially if there is a random multiple or all four cylinders are misfiring. I wouldn't pull the trigger unless you check the codes. It could have other issues in addition to the rough start. A vacuum leak would be anywhere from cheap to free to repair. 

I spoke with the seller. 

 

He said there is a CEL  on .   He said  he cant get it inspected with that light on.

 

He hasnt been able to clear it.

 

He didnt tell me the p code,   he said it was a fuel temperature code.    After reading a bit i found some others who had this code, but im not sure what exactly it entails.

 

The Seller said he replaced the fuel pump (i believe this is where the fuel temp sensor resides).  But it didnt clear the code. 

 

This could be a cause of the poor running at start up, but im thinking its probably a combination of that and the coolant temp sensor.  

After reading around these forums i thought maybe the computer was replaced and it didnt have the same computer as the original. (thus causing this  fuel temp sensor problem.   I asked if the engine was ever out of the car, he said he didnt know.

 

Anyway its a nice rust free vehicle.  I was thinking of getting it.   150k miles on it.  Im listening to your advice.

really hard to say without the P codes. 

Fuel temp sensor is on the main pump assembly but it's not part of the actual pump.

If he replaced the entire assembly then there's a wire issue or poor connection at the plug on top of the pump assembly.

 

Rough running when cold could be a lot of things, fuel temp sensor is not one of them.

Anything from a minor MAF leak to old spark plugs to a bad head gasket.

Rough running when cold could be a lot of things, fuel temp sensor is not one of them.
Anything from a minor MAF leak to old spark plugs to a bad head gasket.

 

But this should throw another code shouldnt it?   I agree with everything you said.

Which is why it's so important that the codes be checked. I wouldn't trust him any farther than I can throw him. Get the codes first. As a seller, he should be willing to get a code printout for you. They're free at autozone.

Rough running when cold could be a lot of things, fuel temp sensor is not one of them.

Anything from a minor MAF leak to old spark plugs to a bad head gasket.

 

But this should throw another code shouldnt it? I agree with everything you said.

Not necessarily. Lots of variables in whether or not a failure sets a code. An air leak between the MAF and throttle body won't set a code, but it will result in a false reading, which will cause it to run lean.

I suggest it might be a coolant temperature sensor code.  If it is, cheapish and easy to fix. 

 

If it is a fuel temp. sensor, a great post on this is here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/74419-p0183-fuel-temperature-sensor-a-circuit-high-input/

 

But I can't see why that would cause it to run poorly until the engine is warm. 

i mi messaged the guy and told him i was quite a ways away but would like to see the car.

 

I asked if he would get the codes at auto zone and let me know what they are, before i drove down there..   (its 6 hrs away)

 

He said " thats why its cheap, not messing with it no more"     

 

idk  for 1350 or a lil less,, the car is probably worth it right?  I dont have inspections here  so if light is on no biggie.

Not cheap enough. Why it hasn't sold yet. Find something more local, otherwise you're driving 12 hours to either get ripped off or come back empty handed.

Leaking intake manifold gaskets don't always set codes, as they can seal up before the O2 sensors warm up enough to pick up the lean condition. The run horrible when cold, but once they warm up, they tend to expand enough to hide the problems. Not something I've seen very much on Subarus, but GM, Chrysler, and Ford have problems with them all the time. If the leak is bad enough, you might be able to spray around it with brake clean or something similar and listen for a change in the idle, but the best way I've found to catch them is with a scope or a fast enough scanner to watch the O2 sensors to see if they respond to the spray.