Has 155k and is in decent shape.  Looks like it needs HG work and possible a leaky power steering pump and some rear tires or bearings.   Does anyone else know if there are any other good or bad issues with this series as this in new territory for me.

 

Thanks in advance

I like the body style,but the big dawgs here are saying bad rod bearings,uncomfortable seats,bad window motors,and switch's,also carry less weight,and ordering parts can be a debaco.

Never had an issue ordering parts but rust is always a major issue and they all leak oil. The rust will make certain things like the calipers almost impossible to service and makes removing nuts and bolts a hassle or even dangerous. Keep everything lubricated under the car as best as you can.

Any comment on rod bearings?

It isn't the rod bearings. It's the 7mm oil pumps. Change it out to a 10mm. The rod bearings and even the rods themselves can be found in Subaru's turbocharged model engines where they do not have failure problems because those engines had 10mm pumps from the factory.

 

GD

Edited February 12, 20179 yr by GeneralDisorder

so ,when doing the hg work replace the 7mm pump to a 10mm even at 155k on the clock?

I use the 11 mm pump . Here is the item # 142251153734 on ebay .   Brand new O.E.  $138 delivered.    Here's the # 131638875556 for the same thing with new bolts and both seals for $154      I buy from this company often, very reputable. 

Edited February 12, 20179 yr by montana tom

cool thanks

Yup, one electric window not working.  One kinda sticky outside door handle and the interior finish doesn't hold up as well as my 00-04's.   Not bad though, got it for $750.  It will need two rear wheel bearings, head gaskets etc.   But really clean outside and pretty clean inside.

Hey for that price you bet it was worth it.   The 05's are the first year of " drive by wire"  no cable from the pedal to throttle body , (stupid, IMO).  There have been connection issues between the pedal assembly and computer. Unplug it at throttle pedal  , inspect it well then use dielectric grease when plugging it back in. May help.

So the right rear window will not lower or raise.  Tried it from the front switch and the RR door switch.  nothing.  Is that a motor you think?

We are still working on determining the viability of using the 11mm pumps on non dual-AVCS engines. It may be too much flow.

 

I'll have data soon to determine exactly which pump is best based on temp, viscosity, bearing clearances, pump size, and oil volume consuming devices (turbo chargers, intake/exhaust AVCS, AVLS, etc).

 

Too big of a pump and you cause the bypass in the pump to open more often and it may be unable to flow enough volume to drop the pressure to a desirable level.

 

We also want to know under what conditions the oil filter bypass valve will be bypassing. Science.

 

For now the 10mm pump us the safest bet. It is used all the way up to 14 WRX's.

 

GD

Thanks GD.   I will work on the other issues for now and wait to hear on which oil pump I should use.

It isn't the rod bearings. It's the 7mm oil pumps. Change it out to a 10mm. The rod bearings and even the rods themselves can be found in Subaru's turbocharged model engines where they do not have failure problems because those engines had 10mm pumps from the factory.

 

GD

 

GD - which cars have the 7mm pump and what is the number for the 10mm pump?

Use parts.subaru.com and lookup a 2003 non turbo. It will be a 7. Then click on the "what this fits" tab and it will tell you all the models that called out a 7. Then lookup a 2006. That will have a 10 because it's an AVLS engine.

 

GD

it says; Subaru: 5 models, 178 variants between 2002 and 2006.

 

 

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-ENGINE

Part Number: 15010AA290 ; 15010AA260; 15010AA261; 15010AA262

 

so, I assume all non-turbo models in that range have those numbers stock and they are 7mm

 

very interesting

 

looks like the 10mm part number is;

 

used in 7 models, 275 variants between 1991 and 2009.

 

 

Part Number: 15010AA300 ; 15010AA103; 15010AA104; 15010AA105; 15010AA106; 15010AA107; 15010AA108; 15010AA109; 15010AA280

There are multiple part numbers for the 10. Some didn't have the provision for the timing belt guide plate. There are 9's out there too. And 11's, and 12's (Japan).

 

Some 10's are marked with a 10 like the 7 and 9 are marked. 11's are marked "78" and I believe the newer 10's are marked "76".

 

GD

There are multiple part numbers for the 10. Some didn't have the provision for the timing belt guide plate. There are 9's out there too. And 11's, and 12's (Japan).

 

Some 10's are marked with a 10 like the 7 and 9 are marked. 11's are marked "78" and I believe the newer 10's are marked "76".

 

GD

 

 

good info - kinda confusing for us that don't handle this stuff regularly.

 

 

found a coupla pics - here's the '78' (11 mm?)

 

 

 

are these the same size as marked?

 

Yes those would be a 7 and 9. It is the thickness of the georotor in millimeters.

 

 GD

Holy smokes. Then which part number would I use for my 2005 2.5 10 mm replacement oil pump?  I am not real clear, but want to make sure I and others moving forward are as well.

You have my attention!

last line of post 16 seems to be 10mm part numbers.

 

you should ask gd to confirm, and, when you receive the part, measure the rotor thickness.

Edited February 17, 20179 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

This is what i found:

 

Part Number: 15010AA300 ; 15010AA103; 15010AA104; 15010AA105; 15010AA106; 15010AA107; 15010AA108; 15010AA109; 15010AA280 

 

What it fits:

 

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