I have a weber DGAV, what is the diff between this and the DGEV or other models?

I believe the difference is the type of automatic choke--AV is the water choke, EV is the electric choke. Check out the Haynes manual of weber carbs if you can find one; it's pretty informative.

www.carbsunlimited.com has some specs on the carbs... I may even order a DFEV from them, the prices seem better than local...

 

Yes I belive AV is either a manual or water choke...

Actually it's basically meaningless. You have to actually lay eyes on the carb to tell what it is. The stampings on the carb mean next to nothing. I bought a brand new carb from Redline that has the stamp of "DGAV" on it. But it's clearly an electric choke model, and thus really should be stamped "DGEV". The choke's are easily interchangeable and cheap anyway, so it doesn't matter much. What you really have is a 32/36 DGV "series" carb, and it can *be* any type of choke you want.

 

GD

That makes sense, it is an electric choke model. Thanks

. I bought a brand new carb from Redline that has the stamp of "DGAV" on it. But it's clearly an electric choke model, and thus really should be stamped "DGEV".

 

GD

 

is it possible that the "new" carb from redline was actually a reman and they put an electric choke on it? it wouldn't make sense that the stamps mean nothing.

Doubtful - others have complained of this too. The problem is the carbs are no longer made in Italy - they are made cheaply in Mexico where little things like casting marks mean little to them. If you saw the quality of the rest of the redline "kit" you would understand. It's WAY below what I expected for the inflated, rediculous price I paid.

 

Besides that I doubt redline is interested in remaning a cheap peice of aluminium when they can just press out another one. The time and work involved in measureing and re-bushing all the little passages and throttle bore's and such is too expensive. It's easier to buy scrap aluminium and just make new castings.

 

GD

Ok, If you look at my posts from before, I have all the info for Webers. There are no "rebuilt" Webers. I would not reccomend the 32/36 DFEV. The linkage is reversed to the DG series and it flows less air.

 

DGV-manual choke

DGAV-Water Choke

 

There is no Weber stamped 32/36 DGEV. All electric choke Webers started life as a water choke. They were converted somewhere down the line.

 

I will post my other report in the next window.

Used Weber Carbs - Where to look

Ok, for all you guys that hunt JY's. If you are going to look for a Weber Carb, this is what you should look for. First I will mark the cars and trucks, and then the model of carbs. I will be pleased to tell you if the carb is worthwhile if you find something else. I have the repair kits available.

 

Vehicles

Datsun/Nissan - carbureted trucks and cars pre 1986 L, Z, A, E series engines

Toyota - Corolla pre 87, Celica-pre 81, Land Cruiser 80's and earlier, Pickups pre-88

Mazda - B2600, B2200 trucks. Most cars had people that didnt care about performance other than rotaries

Suzuki - 1300 Samurai

Mitsubishi/Dodge D50 - carbureted pickups, Raiders, Colt front drives

BMW - 2002 with 2 barrel manifolds (best place to find Webers)

Opel - Opel GT

Volvo-non fuel injection cars (144, 122)

Jeep-CJ, Wrangler with 258 motor

Ford - Old Cortina mark 1 (1967?)

 

Carbs to use

32/36 DGV (manual choke), 32/36 DGAV (auto choke), 32 DGAV, 32 DGV

38 DGAS Maximum performance, mileage will be lower

36 DCD, 28/36 DCD

Questionable carbs

Holley 5200/Weber 32/36 DFAV - linkage reversed to DGV series, most Holleys have linkage that is not bolted on and some have non changeable idle jets, throttle shafts wear easy

Fiat Webers, DMSA series harder to get parts, linkage reversed, 1800 carbs will not fit adaptor

Renault Webers DIR series- same as Fiat

 

If you are handy, and have access to parts, the Renault and Fiat carbs will work OK

for the recommendation against the DFEV... I just recently swapped to one from a DGEV for the very reason that the carb is backwards. On EA82's with power steering its by FAR the best way to go. Sure you lose a little power, but you gain a little mileage.

 

Besides, since my throttle cable is no longer ghetto rigged I can now lay on it fully without fear of breaking it (had to go gentle at last rallycross)

 

Now its foot to the floor!

If the 32/36 DFAV works for PS on EA82, then it is time to search for...........

 

 

Holley 5200 (Motorcraft as well) with thread on linkage and changeable idle jets.

Be careful, there are some Chevettes with a miniature Holley 5200 that has barrels just big enough for your pinkie.

So....which one would you recommend for an EA81 wagon? The DGV (manual choke) or the DGEV (electric choke)?

 

I'm looking to buy one (new) and I'm not sure which one to get, and where to get it from...

Its what you want. Do you want manual or electric choke. The kit is about $469US plus about $15 for shipping for an electric choke kit. Thats the price we have. If you are interested call me at 604-879-6288.

Jeez - $469? I can get them local for $375....

 

GD