06SubLegTx Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 I found this in my Subaru Manual. Page 242, What I rarely hear or read what people never do: Step 2 under Installation. 13.Crank Pulley A: REMOVAL 1) Remove the V-belts. <Ref. to ME(H4SO)-36, REMOVAL, V-belt.> 2) Remove the crank pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH 3) Remove the crank pulley. B: INSTALLATION 1) Install the crank pulley. 2) Install the pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH (1) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m or 33 ft-lb). (4) Tighten the crank pulley bolts. Tightening torque: 180 N·m or 132.8 ft-lb) 3) Check that the tightening angle of the clamp pulley bolt is a minimum of 65°, Perform the following procedures when less than 65°. (1) Replace the crank pulley bolts and clean them. Crank pulley bolt: 12369AA011 (2) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (3) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (4) Tighten the bolts temporarily with a tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb). (5) Tighten the crank pulley bolt keeping them in an angle between 65° and 75°. NOTE: Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of crank pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on timing belt cover. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 (edited) Tighten it to 150 ft/lbs. That is all. Inspect for thread damage or stretching of course. We have NEVER had a failure or a back-off at 150. All this is way overkill. There are many other vehicles with similar sized thread for the crank pulley that are 250 ft/lbs. GD Edited June 11, 2017 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Agree. I set my torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs and it's not an issue. If you have a 5spd, you can just stick it in 5th gear with the E brake locked. If it's an auto. you'll need some kind of holder like the Subaru tool. A 2x4 with holes drilled in it for bolts, or long 3/8" extensions will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Tighten it to 150 ft/lbs. That is all. Inspect for thread damage or stretching of course. We have NEVER had a failure or a back-off at 150. All this is way overkill. There are many other vehicles with similar sized thread for the crank pulley that are 250 ft/lbs. GD So you torque your to 150 ft-lbs? Subaru only call for 132.8 ft-lbs Why do you go more then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Agree. I set my torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs and it's not an issue. If you have a 5spd, you can just stick it in 5th gear with the E brake locked. If it's an auto. you'll need some kind of holder like the Subaru tool. A 2x4 with holes drilled in it for bolts, or long 3/8" extensions will work Why do you go to 150 ft-lbs, when Subaru only says it needs 132.8? Just curious why you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 There were some service bulletins about that value being insufficient. I believe they changed it to 147. Regardless the fastener is more than capable based on it's size and so we just use the 150 because it's a round number. Based on experience we use 150 for the crank, and 75 for the cams. It's easy to remember, etc. Remember that all torque values are mostly based on the size of the fastener. You can find torque by fastener size and grade - it's given on machinists charts and reference material. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Way back when, it was suggested to me to torque to 150 and it stuck.. Its 20ft lbs and torquing to 150 ft lbs also eliminates that 65* stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 There were some service bulletins about that value being insufficient. I believe they changed it to 147. Regardless the fastener is more than capable based on it's size and so we just use the 150 because it's a round number. Based on experience we use 150 for the crank, and 75 for the cams. It's easy to remember, etc. Remember that all torque values are mostly based on the size of the fastener. You can find torque by fastener size and grade - it's given on machinists charts and reference material. GD GD, okay just wanted to know why... I like learning from other people.. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Way back when, it was suggested to me to torque to 150 and it stuck.. Its 20ft lbs and torquing to 150 ft lbs also eliminates that 65* stuff. Hey, thanks for being honest, I have only had 2 subarus so I am kinda new to these engines.... I wonder why Subaru do the 65 degree thing. Wondering if is a bolt that stretches to stay tight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Hey, thanks for being honest, I have only had 2 subarus so I am kinda new to these engines.... I wonder why Subaru do the 65 degree thing. Wondering if is a bolt that stretches to stay tight... 65* at 132 ft/lbs would be the min torque required without over torquing. It's so close to not enough though, that if it did not rotate 65* from the point it got tight, that it is not torqued enough and is binding a bit... When it is torqued at 147/150, it's probably going to be near that 75*. Were talking 20 ft/lbs more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 65* at 132 ft/lbs would be the min torque required without over torquing. It's so close to not enough though, that if it did not rotate 65* from the point it got tight, that it is not torqued enough and is binding a bit... When it is torqued at 147/150, it's probably going to be near that 75*. Were talking 20 ft/lbs more Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Experienced Subaru people can do an entire head job and use a torque wrench for the headbolts only. I don't even use a torque wrench on crank pulley bolts, I get them as tight as my extension allows so I'm probably over 150. Waste of time to dig out my toque wrenches. Iron crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try or have no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 My wrist clicks at the specified torque 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06SubLegTx Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 (edited) Experienced Subaru people can do an entire head job and use a torque wrench for the head bolts only. I don't even use a torque wrench on crank pulley bolts, I get them as tight as my extension allows so I'm probably over 150. Waste of time to dig out my toque wrenches. Iron crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try or have no idea. It's not the stripping of the threads that I would worry about, it's the damage the damper keyway and keyway slot in the crank if the damper bolt comes loose... Edited June 13, 2017 by 06SubLegTx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Agree. I set my torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs and it's not an issue. If you have a 5spd, you can just stick it in 5th gear with the E brake locked. If it's an auto. you'll need some kind of holder like the Subaru tool. A 2x4 with holes drilled in it for bolts, or long 3/8" extensions will work For automatics, a large screwdriver or prybar can be placed through the slots/holes in the Flexplate. Access through the rubber plug at the back of the engine. Just be careful not to let the prybar rest against the TPS or IAC or any of the throttle body parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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