Posted this the other day on another post:

 

"I have a similar issue (shaking from side to side) on my 03 Forester and it is related to the rear lateral link bolt/knuckle interface.  If you lift the wheel you can move the wheel sideways and see the aft end of the knuckle move around the lateral link bolt."

 

Finally got around to fixing it the last few days.  I knew the Knuckle was likely toast (Lateral Link bolt holes were egg shaped) so I bit the bullet and bought a new knuckle, bearing, hub, brake backing plate, seals, and of course the Lateral Link Bolt/Nut Washers/Bushings all from Subaru).

 

I used a cut off disk to cut through the Lateral Link bolt and a propane torch to burn out the Lateral Link Bushings.  Used a nut and bolt to pull in the new lateral link bushings after applying some silicone lubricant.

 

Having read a number of posts over the years about how difficult the lateral link bolt/bushings were to get out I decided to bite the bullet and get all new stuff.  Was not the cheapest way to get the job done but I know that it was done right with quality parts.

 

The thing that helped was buying a wheel bearing from Subaru.  The new ones have a bit of a reduction in the middle of the bearing making it easier to install.  The cheap Chinese bearings do not have that feature.

 

               

 

Chinese Ones                        Subaru Style

 

I used my Harbor Freight bearing kit to install the new bearing and hub. Worked like a charm.

 

 

Edited July 3, 20178 yr by Mike104

Test drive success!!   Drove on the highway for a few exits making several lane changes and no shake and shimmy!!  I love when a DIY fix works!

Still have a wheel bearing whine.  Resident Subie tech confirmed it's the right rear bearing.  Seems the most common failure on the Forester.

 

Engineering/Racing friend suggested Titanium bolts to replace the Lateral Link bolt.

 

www.ti64.com

Glad you got it sorted! If titanium isn't handy a liberal coating of anti-seize might help.

Glad you got it sorted! If titanium isn't handy a liberal coating of anti-seize might help.

 

I covered that bad boy with anti-seize like butter on toast!

I wonder if for some of these things silicone dielectric grease wouldn't work better?

I'm trying some out on my forester hatch latch.

I wonder if for some of these things silicone dielectric grease wouldn't work better?

I'm trying some out on my forester hatch latch.

 

I'm not sure anything other than removing that bolt every year cleaning and liberally applying anti seize isn't the option that works best for us that live in salt states.  Guess I could move to the Southwest where it doesn't snow!

I've started using a good grade of marine grease instead of anti-seize. It seems to stay in place much better even on fasteners running in saltwater. The added bonus is, it doesn't seem to automatically GET ON EVERYTHING as soon as you open the bottle!!

I used to have access to anti-corrosion materials from aviation industry that would stick to anything forever

 

MIL-PRF-16173 Grade 1

But no longer do 

@Mike104

 

That number comes up so it looks like anyone can buy it. Kinda pricey though

@Mike104

 

That number comes up so it looks like anyone can buy it. Kinda pricey though

 

Yeah I used to be able to get leftovers from work, but that was a long time ago.

I have used both anti seize from NAPA and synthetic wheEl bearing grease and had good results in CT.

I work with a guy that used to work in a literal salt mine, underground, salt in air and high humidity. He said all the fancy crap they would use on electrical connections sucked compared to dielectric grease, so I'm giving it a try when a convenient test case comes along. I wouldn't say use it where actual lubrication is required, but if something just has to sit there and look pretty I'll give it a shot!