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XHighOctanex

Loyale rear wheel bearing

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Hey guys, so I've done both my fronts, super easy. The rears on the other hand I can't quite figure out how to do. I don't want to just jump into it without a decent idea of what to do and what can go wrong. From what I can find you use a punch to get the special nut inside the back off that there is a tool for but don't need. Other than that I can't find anything. I blame photo bucket because I found what looks like a beautiful instruction set but it's all got the stupid not a paid user crap so I can't see pictures. Anyways if anyone else has pictures or advice would be nice. My driver side rear bearings has been going out ever since I had to hammer my original axle off months ago, shifts and noisy when slow.

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I did some off the car, one on.  It will depend on what you have for a press.  It was a lot easier to figure out how to do it off the car.  I had spare arms to try things on before going after the car.

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I do them On car.

 

I take the axle, and the back side locknut out first.  I've got he tool, but punch works.

 

then hammer the stub out, sometimes it brings the outer race with.

 

If not, I use the back edge of the 36mm socket and a Big hammer and hammer out the old outer race.

 

I take the stub, and the new bearing to the press.

 

If the old bearing came out with, use the press to remove it from the stub.  

 

Pack new bearing with grease.  Clean stub.  Use press to install stub through the new bearing.

 

clean old outer race.  Clean the Arm well enough to not get new bearing grease dusty while pounding.

 

use old outer race as a driver to hammer the whole stub, bearing assembly into the arm.  put the 36mm nut over the end to prevent outerend bearing from popping out.  sometimes happens.

 

once bearing/stub are installed, reinstall the backing ring nut and seal.  install outer seal and reassemble hubs/brakes.

Edited by Gloyale
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I do them On car.

 

I take the axle, and the back side locknut out first. I've got he tool, but punch works.

 

then hammer the stub out, sometimes it brings the outer race with.

 

If not, I use the back edge of the 36mm socket and a Big hammer and hammer out the old outer race.

 

I take the stub, and the new bearing to the press.

 

If the old bearing came out with, use the press to remove it from the stub.

 

Pack new bearing with grease. Clean stub. Use press to install stub through the new bearing.

 

clean old outer race. Clean the Arm well enough to not get new bearing grease dusty while pounding.

 

use old outer race as a driver to hammer the whole stub, bearing assembly into the arm. put the 36mm nut over the end to prevent outerend bearing from popping out. sometimes happens.

 

once bearing/stub are installed, reinstall the backing ring nut and seal. install outer seal and reassemble hubs/brakes.

Hammer towards car right?

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Hammer towards car right?

 

for removal yes.

 

new bearing installs from the inner side of the arm, so then you will be hammering out.  Make sure to keep the old race centered on the new as you drive it.

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I was never able to find the special socket but i found a slightly smaller socket at the local parts store ( I believe it was a GM 4wd socket) and cut it to match.. works ok only slips sometimes and not nearly as aggressive or annoying as using a punch... IMO.

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for removal yes.

 

new bearing installs from the inner side of the arm, so then you will be hammering out. Make sure to keep the old race centered on the new as you drive it.

Awesome thanks guys

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Pretty sure it's too messed up now to use the socket, so not sure what I'm going to do about it. Have a 2hour drive to Fresno on the 22nd for a weekend camping trip and I'm going even if I have to run the bearing that's in it. Might just end up having to get another control arm from the junkyard and hunting down that socket to put the new bearing in that arm

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On the ones I did, with the special socket I couldn't get enough torque without it popping out of the stickier ones.  I ground a special tool for my air hammer which made short work of the stickier ones, and didn't destroy the nut to where I couldn't use it..

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On the ones I did, with the special socket I couldn't get enough torque without it popping out of the stickier ones. I ground a special tool for my air hammer which made short work of the stickier ones, and didn't destroy the nut to where I couldn't use it..

I finished my drop blocks today so I'm heading to the junkyard tomorrow for a legacy steering knuckle and various other stuff, so gonna get and get done ofthisr rear nuts off a couple gls there

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Wow yeah I'm not surprised those mangle sometimes. That's unfortunate.

 

If you use punches you can't torque it to any known value. Does that mater? You could mark nut ring location and count number of turns to at least get in the right neighborhood though.

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Wow yeah I'm not surprised those mangle sometimes. That's unfortunate.

 

If you use punches you can't torque it to any known value. Does that mater? You could mark nut ring location and count number of turns to at least get in the right neighborhood though.

it just locks the outer race into the arm.  

 

doesn't set any preload, as long as it is "zero'd" up snug, it doesn't matter.  as long as the outer race is pinned in tight in the housing.

 

So glad I have the special tool.  I got it from ZDMak tools, which is still around making specialty tools, but they don't list that one anymore.  Perhaps a phone call and they could dig some up or make another run.

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So this has now become an emergency situation. On the way to work today the bearing completely imploded and stranded me on the side of the freeway for about a half hour while I got the axle off and checked everything and limped the car to work. I'm supposed to be going on a trip this weekend and as always something has to break last minute. The entire bearing is garbage now, I have a new one and everything is loose but I'm gonna have to get that stupid nut off and hope I didn't hurt the spindle. Any recommendations?

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Depending on where you are I would look into a wrecking yard and buy the whole thing axle and everything... that's what I did.

Edited by Len Dawg

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Depending on where you are I would look into a wrecking yard and buy the whole thing axle and everything... that's what I did.

I haven't found a good set yet in the junkyard. They're always shot bearings or axles seized onto the spindle

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Are you going on the MtnRoo Bald Mountain trip?

 

Anyways, run down to NAPA or Auto zone and see if they have a 4WD hub socket with the little splines in it. The splines can be modified to fit into the lockring and unscrew it.

 

I have also seen people take flat steel and cut it to fin into the grooves of the lock ring and then use that flat stock to turn the nut. I think Nico did this but he welded it to a socket. Feel free to hit me up on FB, maybe we can figure something out that's not as slow as waiting on responses from a forum

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Are you going on the MtnRoo Bald Mountain trip?

 

Anyways, run down to NAPA or Auto zone and see if they have a 4WD hub socket with the little splines in it. The splines can be modified to fit into the lockring and unscrew it.

 

I have also seen people take flat steel and cut it to fin into the grooves of the lock ring and then use that flat stock to turn the nut. I think Nico did this but he welded it to a socket. Feel free to hit me up on FB, maybe we can figure something out that's not as slow as waiting on responses from a forum

 

That was the plan, are you going???

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Update, today got the rear nut off easy with the control arm off the car and a modified gm socket (2 prongs cut off) gonna send it to napa to have everything pressed and should be good

Edited by XHighOctanex

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