Aye,

 

      A 92 Loyale.  1.8l 5 speed   running strong at like 285k.....

 

I haven't been there to see this....... as I am not near the car but, will be this weekend....

and thought I would post beforehand.....

 

 

   It seems to be running fine,,,,  but it will stall out.....

 

A good example would be  when coasting to a stop(due to being a 5 speed)

 

So if you are at a decent speed,  in fifth gear  or whatever....... 

(gettting off the highway.)   or even   reducing speed due to approaching a traffic lite....

She will Stall.....      you have to give it a little gas  otherwise   stalls.........

 

 

            Any thoughts???????       Like I said, otherwise the car runs strong.. I have had five of

these cars....... this one is running as strong as the first day I drove it.........

 

                         Yes, the CEL is on.........

 

 

       At one point I did get it to go out..... I replaced  a part that sits near the thermostat housing.......

 

 

Thanks, Micky

 

 

 

 

 

The CTS can cause odd intermittent problems like that. Also, the IAC valve.

 

Read the code, it may give you the answer.

Is it actually overheating?

 

Cold. Can you start it without touching the gas pedal, and do you hear it idle high<2 minutes> and then slow down when it gets to temp?

All without touching the gas pedal?

Edited October 6, 20178 yr by jsyme

I think my money is on the IAC valve. (Idle Air control.)

 

 

Check out this thread:   

Low cold Idle 93 Loyale

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/64199-low-cold-idle-93-loyale/ 

 

 

 

Here is a generic link to troubleshoot it:

 https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-check-an-idle-air-control-valve-by-jerel-lawrence

Yes, the CEL is on.........

 

 

This. Check the code, resolve the problem, then see if the stalling persists. 

Can I plug an OBDII into it?........  I Don't think so, right?

 

 

Thanks for all the good feed back / questions....

 

 

AND    The car no longer will start by just turning the key.......

 

I started it this morning( I only just an now actually get to be with the vehicle)

 

and     To start the car  I had to put my foot on the gas pedal......

AND     There is no... absolutely none..... zeroo......... Fast Idle...

 

And it is not   Idling at  normal  Idle speed........... More like  300 RPM....

 

    Thanks....

 

     I don't think I can plug this pup in.......... I only have an  ODBII device.......

It is not running hot.....

To identify this IAC...

 

   Is it on the front of the throttle body behind the power steering resevoir?

 

         It has  a fairly large hose going to it......   5/8" id perhaps(off throttle body main air inlet)

 

            as well as  power... 2 pin plug(I think)

 

       I looked into the connection point of the hose into this thing/device.....   looks like some kind of valve  Gizmo..... thing.....

 

 

Thanks, Micky

Sounds like the IAC. Yes, round thing with 2 wires and big hose on front of the throttle body.

 

This car is obd1. Read the code blinked by the LED on the ECU, under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic cover that has th air vent for your feet and legs.

Ok, Thanks.... Dave T......

 

Let you  know how it goes.......

Yeah, So the code is 24........

 

So do I fiddle with this thing to get it to work??????

 

 

    Or do I just get one  out of my   Loyale graveyard?

 

I did spray some WD-40  down in the Vacuum side.....   I starts now with out my foot feathering.....

 

      What would you's do......   Go to the boneyard?   or  fiddle?

 

Thanks, MIcky

So I ended up going to the boneyard...

 

I grabbed a complete throttle body from a known running ok vehicle/engine...

 

I still have the same problem with this complete throttle body from the other vehicle

 

It is still throwing 24 code.... And  still with this complete throttle body, has the problems with starting poorly (requiring foot feathering )

 

Where should I go from here?

 

 

Thanks, Micky

Check all the wire run from the valve to the ECU.  A bad connection or bad wire can do the same thing.

 

Code 24 is the IAC.  Open or shorted. 

 

I once had a wire in the harness on the engine break - inside it's insulation.  The way I found it was 2 part.  I got lucky, and it decided to be flakey when I was testing with a meter.  2nd, was I disassembled the wrapping from the wiring, and found the 2 wires.  Noticed a slightly funny spot, and sure enough, when I bent the wire, it was clearly broken inside the insulation.

Ok, I will check the wire.... Yeah, makes sense....

 

     I was even thinking  the connector could have gone bad.. near the IAC

 

With a volt meter   what should I be looking for at the   IAC.... for voltage????

 

  Does the IAC have a relay in it's circuit?

 

Thanks, Micky

I would check your grounds and vacume lines a bad gound will cause all kinds of problems if it is a ground issue its most likly a body ground you can do a quick test with jumper cables

The IAC is wired directly to the ECU.

 

Iirc, I found the intermittent break with an ohm meter. Found the pins on the ECU that are wired to the IAC using my factory service manual. Disconnect the connector, connect the meter to the harness. It should read something fairly low, wiggle the wiring and the connectors to narrow down where the break is.

I would check your grounds and vacume lines a bad gound will cause all kinds of problems if it is a ground issue its most likly a body ground you can do a quick test with jumper cables

The ECU and all engine accesorries ground through the bolt on the intake manifold.

 

The Fuel pump and Ig. relays are the on;y part of the Engine electronics that ground to the body.

I got that code with a bad ground and 2 other codes the wire from battery to body solved the issue for me and ive seen it on 2 other loyals same issues same solution