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ferp420

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Everything posted by ferp420

  1. that po420 your car is stoned code sucks ive been fighting it for 20 years on varios subarus i use a spark plug defouler inline with my 02 sensor i got mine at oreallys fixed it everytime i do need to remove it before smog though or it wont pass visual inspection it still pops up every now and again and goes away it always comes on after a long down hill run coming out of the mountains to sea leval then a few day at a stable elivation the light goes off the car still has the original cats on it there over 20 years old and still working fine
  2. if you cant do the head gaskets your self then i would find out how much there gona cost to have done thkse 2.5 single overhead cam engines like to drop there beadgaskets at around 150-200k so you most likely wont need to do them again we payed 3000 to have our head gaskets done at a shop on our 2003 if your payin 3k for gaskets and 2k for the car it dosent look like such a good deal but with the price of used cars today that might be good i dont know for what its worth i just did the head gaskets on my 2000 imp it had 290k on it when they failed they were real easy to do at home and even surfacing them went smooth alot of labor though it took days of sanding to get the heads flat again but thats the way it goes lol heres the start of the surfacing before and after sorry its kinda blurry i glues a peice of sand paper to a granite slab and went to town
  3. check your carier bearing that would be affected by heat and load it could be torn half way through but still wouldent be obviose at a glance and its the lowest point of the drive train vary easy to snag or smack it on something a simple push pull test should tell you if theres a problem down there pretty quick if it moves more than a 1/4 of a inch in any direction thats probably the problem
  4. i have a ground wire conected to it so i never had that problem ill have to take your word for it
  5. i wouldent consider that a failure but yes these cars seem to have horable grounds ive never seen a car so sensitive but ya any loose ground reeks havoc on the system
  6. yes you can pulse the spark on the distributor manualy if you just want to test to se if you have spark just disconect the power or maybe its the negative lead ether way one will triger the spark discharge the ignition system on the loyal isent much different than a vw after installing the electronic ignition modual the fuel injection and the ignition dont have alot to do with each other if you dont have spark its usualy ether the coil mostly the coil or the electronic pick up inside the dizzy
  7. i second the ground wires these cars are so sensitive about there ground wires every ground needs to be good and have a clean conection the body needs to be grounded to the engine and the transmission and to the battery directly also the motor needs to be grounded to.the body and the transmission and the battery the battery needs to be grounded to.the engine the body the battery your left foot and atleast one pubic hair or the car wont run
  8. i reboot and regrease my new aftermarket axles too it doubles the cost of the replacement axle but it doubles the life of the axle also the last axle i bought they forgot to install the clip inside the boot to keep the cage inside the cup so i went to install.it and the damb thing litterally fell apart in my hands
  9. there definitly differnt style of joints the one with the cutouts use 3 roller bearings inside the other with no cut outs uses balls and cage inside the joint honestly it looks like a custom axle rear diff to front hub to me but i have seen differnt styles of joints used with ea82 axles also extremely differnt shaft sizes and joint sizes theres even a telescoping axle for the front of the ea82s lol from what it sounds like from what the op sead they will both work you can install it then check for binding while the strut is disconected if your worried about it
  10. i think all ea82 radiators have those ports if you can even find one for a ea82 at all it dosent make sense to manufacture a 2 different radiators for 1 vehicle especially one thats a rare 80 modle disposable econo box
  11. i wonder if anyone has tryed ceracoating the pistons and exhaust ports to help with the extra heat there caracoating diesel pistons to stop piston melt down on n/a diesels with big turdbos like mine lol i know it wont help with the ringlands but might help stop the head from cracking maybe lol
  12. 9 i do agree with you but the belt isent a stright line it has atleast 1 90 in it wich will eat up most of the slop minimizing that effect to almost nothing and like you sead a degree or 2 wont effect the performance of a ea82 enuff to be noticable and with the huge power gained way outways the performance lost is there more on the table yes ask ram engins they used to make one hell of a ea82 and reliable too ram has a full machine shop they make there own parts they have engineers i use hand tools and best guesses and my parts arent neer the quality of theres but i did steel some of there ideas like the intake spacers trying to build a ea82 is like polishing a turd even when shinny its still a turd but if you enjoy building engines theres a fun platform to play with cause subaru left so much on the table it gives us something to play with
  13. those clips are extremely hard to find i gave mine up years ago to help someone else fix there trim the good news is some one 3d printed them so if you can find that file or the member here who printed them you might be in luck if that dosent pan out i am using e6000 adhesive to hold the spoiler on on my impreza cause the bolts rusted through it should be strong enuff to hold your trim on or find some comercial body adhesive
  14. i do get what is being sead if a stright line is drawn from the top of cam pullie to the crank pully it would be a shorter distance the teeth on the belt wont make it skew enuff to make any kind of differance now im sure a engine engineer could regrind the cam for more power change the cam timing just a degree or 2 if anything it might have caused a bit of belt ware but not enuff to change the timing enuff to change the performance it is posable that im in left feild and elfredo isent i could have moved enuff to jump 1 tooth and thats why everything lines up but i dont think so i think theres just so much slop in the timing belts that it just sucked it up if the alternator and ac belts werent in the way it would be a no tool belt change the belts would slide on and off with almost no effert on both the stock ea82 and the ea82m i can grab ether one of the head pullies and move the pully with out moving the belt sontheres definitly enuff slop ether way the ea82m was in the ej2.2 v2 power range and i have both a lifted ea and a lifted ej although the ej2.2 has alittle more torque than the ea in high range it also has smaller tires 28s vs 30s than the ea so its kinda a wash
  15. no because the only thing conecting the cam to the crank is the belt so nothings changed it wouldent matter were the cams are as long as the belt and pullies havent chaged the belt travals the same distance no matter were the physical placement is the timing marks dont clock one way or another because the belts the same size what your missing is the tensioner pully moves to a new location instead of the timing mark skewing or moving or what ever it all comes down to the number of teeth in the system if it was a push rod motor like on a ea81 what step toe is saying would be relivent but on a belt driven motor its a non issue
  16. nothings changed on the timing belts the tensioner more than takes up the slack and the number of teeth havent changed on any part of the system so there wouldent be any timing issues if i used a smaller belt that would cause a issue depending on the number of teeth also if i used a differnt pulley anywere it.would.have but its all the same stuff so no timing issues
  17. timing belts are fine the number of teeth on the belt dident change so no timing change and there are 2 belts so each belt only had a small amount of slack to take up i can tell you a ea82 on nitrous making 400 hp only lasted one run he might have rebuilt it afterwards but it wasent right after he ripped the threads out of the block and cracked the pistons the turbo on a n/a block getting 50k wasent on a ea82 unless they were only pushing 2-3 lbs of boost my 87 idi deisel was a n/a originaly its now pushing 20psi of boost i can blow the oil seals out of the block if im not carfull and its alot more robust than a ea82
  18. im one of the few who for the fun of it built a high performance ea82 ive spent hundreads or hours with rotary tools porting and polishing the heads and intake manifold i shaved 1/8 inch off of each side of the block and each head because i shaved so much off the block and heads i had to fab a spacer to transition the intake to the engine cause the engine is now a 1/2" shorter than stock and the intake wouldent match up custom ground the valves and laped them in polished the valve stems and ported the exhaust manifold its self custom 2" cat back exhaust all that work took thousands of hours even if i had to pay $1 a hour i couldent have afforded to pay some one else to do the work and in the end i got a engine on the edge it ran great untill it ate the bearings in the bottom end i got maybe 20k out of it and for all that work it couldent match the ej22 although its vary vary close to my ej2.2 v2 in power the big differance is the ea82m lasted 20k miles while the ej2.2v2 has been make the same power in stock form for over 300k and still going strong the gl10 turbo couldent keep up with my ea82m i built it pulled away from that gl10 hard even after some mods the ea82t couldent keep up with the ea82m now for a reality check even if you go though all the trouble to build something like this you cant get parts for it so its pointless spend thousands of dollers on something you might not even be able to get the parts to finnish building these parts were hard to find 10 years ago when i built my ea82m there 10 times harder to get now im all for going big and going boom but you might not make it to the boom part if you go that big but if you do get it on video from start to boom it would probably make a great you tube video series i would watch it lol
  19. try some wd40 inside the speedo cable its worked for me a few times on other vehicles ive pulled the cable out of the sleeve and cleaned and regreased it and they worked good after you might need to pull the cable from the trans side i cant remeber how the loyal spedo cable works
  20. you would be lucky to find used stock parts your best bet if you plan on keeping it on the road for any langth of time is to pick up a few extra parts cars you need your own junk yard or sell it to someone who already has a junk yards worth of parts and help save someone elses baby
  21. thats funny do it man its real easy just make sure to get a reeaaaalllly big turdbo and take lots of pictures and some short video lol i love watching engines go pop why do images of twin turbos poking up though the hood being powered by electric motors keep poping in to my head
  22. i use 3 layers of steel sheetmetal and ring the holes with copper wire and coat it all with copper head gasked dressing they seal the worst headers and there reusable im on round 3 right now and still no leaking back to the ops issue from what it sounds like is pinning or knocking try adding 92 octain gas or retarding the timing a hair if it goes away its a timing issue or a bad plug issue or maybe even carbon build up on the piston creating a hot spot ether way try better gas and or adjusting the timing
  23. ferp420

    opps

    i bought loaded struts that came with aftermarket springs
  24. i already have a stash of them but just curios what you want for it
  25. if i remeber right 1 and 3 are on the same side of the car right that screams vacume leak probably seals up as it gets hot my first loyale came like that probably why it was free lol
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