ferp420

those clips are extremely hard to find i gave mine up years ago to help someone else fix there trim the good news is some one 3d printed them so if you can find that file or the member here who printed them you might be in luck if that dosent pan out i am using e6000 adhesive to hold the spoiler on on my impreza cause the bolts rusted through it should be strong enuff to hold your trim on or find some comercial body adhesive

i do get what is being sead if a stright line is drawn from the top of cam pullie to the crank pully it would be a shorter distance the teeth on the belt wont make it skew enuff to make any kind of differance now im sure a engine engineer could regrind the cam for more power change the cam timing just a degree or 2 if anything it might have caused a bit of belt ware but not enuff to change the timing enuff to change the performance it is posable that im in left feild and elfredo isent i could have moved enuff to jump 1 tooth and thats why everything lines up but i dont think so i think theres just so much slop in the timing belts that it just sucked it up if the alternator and ac belts werent in the way it would be a no tool belt change the belts would slide on and off with almost no effert on both the stock ea82 and the ea82m i can grab ether one of the head pullies and move the pully with out moving the belt sontheres definitly enuff slop ether way the ea82m was in the ej2.2 v2 power range and i have both a lifted ea and a lifted ej although the ej2.2 has alittle more torque than the ea in high range it also has smaller tires 28s vs 30s than the ea so its kinda a wash

no because the only thing conecting the cam to the crank is the belt so nothings changed it wouldent matter were the cams are as long as the belt and pullies havent chaged the belt travals the same distance no matter were the physical placement is the timing marks dont clock one way or another because the belts the same size what your missing is the tensioner pully moves to a new location instead of the timing mark skewing or moving or what ever it all comes down to the number of teeth in the system if it was a push rod motor like on a ea81 what step toe is saying would be relivent but on a belt driven motor its a non issue

nothings changed on the timing belts the tensioner more than takes up the slack and the number of teeth havent changed on any part of the system so there wouldent be any timing issues if i used a smaller belt that would cause a issue depending on the number of teeth also if i used a differnt pulley anywere it.would.have but its all the same stuff so no timing issues

timing belts are fine the number of teeth on the belt dident change so no timing change and there are 2 belts so each belt only had a small amount of slack to take up i can tell you a ea82 on nitrous making 400 hp only lasted one run he might have rebuilt it afterwards but it wasent right after he ripped the threads out of the block and cracked the pistons the turbo on a n/a block getting 50k wasent on a ea82 unless they were only pushing 2-3 lbs of boost my 87 idi deisel was a n/a originaly its now pushing 20psi of boost i can blow the oil seals out of the block if im not carfull and its alot more robust than a ea82

im one of the few who for the fun of it built a high performance ea82 ive spent hundreads or hours with rotary tools porting and polishing the heads and intake manifold i shaved 1/8 inch off of each side of the block and each head because i shaved so much off the block and heads i had to fab a spacer to transition the intake to the engine cause the engine is now a 1/2" shorter than stock and the intake wouldent match up custom ground the valves and laped them in polished the valve stems and ported the exhaust manifold its self custom 2" cat back exhaust all that work took thousands of hours even if i had to pay $1 a hour i couldent have afforded to pay some one else to do the work and in the end i got a engine on the edge it ran great untill it ate the bearings in the bottom end i got maybe 20k out of it and for all that work it couldent match the ej22 although its vary vary close to my ej2.2 v2 in power the big differance is the ea82m lasted 20k miles while the ej2.2v2 has been make the same power in stock form for over 300k and still going strong the gl10 turbo couldent keep up with my ea82m i built it pulled away from that gl10 hard even after some mods the ea82t couldent keep up with the ea82m now for a reality check even if you go though all the trouble to build something like this you cant get parts for it so its pointless spend thousands of dollers on something you might not even be able to get the parts to finnish building these parts were hard to find 10 years ago when i built my ea82m there 10 times harder to get now im all for going big and going boom but you might not make it to the boom part if you go that big but if you do get it on video from start to boom it would probably make a great you tube video series i would watch it lol

try some wd40 inside the speedo cable its worked for me a few times on other vehicles ive pulled the cable out of the sleeve and cleaned and regreased it and they worked good after you might need to pull the cable from the trans side i cant remeber how the loyal spedo cable works

you would be lucky to find used stock parts your best bet if you plan on keeping it on the road for any langth of time is to pick up a few extra parts cars you need your own junk yard or sell it to someone who already has a junk yards worth of parts and help save someone elses baby

thats funny do it man its real easy just make sure to get a reeaaaalllly big turdbo and take lots of pictures and some short video lol i love watching engines go pop why do images of twin turbos poking up though the hood being powered by electric motors keep poping in to my head

i use 3 layers of steel sheetmetal and ring the holes with copper wire and coat it all with copper head gasked dressing they seal the worst headers and there reusable im on round 3 right now and still no leaking back to the ops issue from what it sounds like is pinning or knocking try adding 92 octain gas or retarding the timing a hair if it goes away its a timing issue or a bad plug issue or maybe even carbon build up on the piston creating a hot spot ether way try better gas and or adjusting the timing

i bought loaded struts that came with aftermarket springs

i already have a stash of them but just curios what you want for it

if i remeber right 1 and 3 are on the same side of the car right that screams vacume leak probably seals up as it gets hot my first loyale came like that probably why it was free lol

i knew i was forgeting something lol

https://rumble.com/v13ytkc-breaking-subi.html

nope cant do it better off selling that duel range theres like a hole wire thats different and so it cant be done

i did it again i riped the front suspention out from under the car runnin alittle to hard and i wound a week spot in the spring well that led to the tire stuffing in to the wheel well at speed and that cauzed the tire to move backwards in to the door ripping the balljoint out of the lower control arm sheering the cotter pin and the threads and in the process distroying the cv axle yay luckly i was about 5 miles out in the middle of the dezert so i wasent haulin butt and there wasent anything or any one to hit if this happend on the highway at 70 i might not be here to tell the tail i was able to get the cv axle tucked up out of the way and got the ball joint back in its hole and was able to limp back to the house morral of the story dont buy cheap coil springs on ebay or your rig might look like this

you need to adjust the shift linkadge i had the same issue after installing my dual range also there is a rubber peice that it mounts to that likes to come apart and can cause alot of slop i used a bolt to fix the rubber part and never had a issue

the nissan 300zx front struts have the larger shaft like the 4 runner but have 6 inches of traval like the stock struts instead of 4" like the 4 runner struts

that works on the l series if you have a open diff and rear disk breaks and honda calapers once the rear is locked that wont work on the rear and the front dig works better than cutting breaks you could seperate the front but why that just complicates the situation a single lever is extremely eazy and dosent require any thought

on the loyals the e break is on the front ive used it to get out of alot of spots when the front end just wont bite works kinda like a limited slip and dosent take any mods to make it work i was nose down in to some ones rig about a foot away from it on a huge sand hill and even with the rear locked it wouldent back up the hill i used the ebreak trick and it backed right up no problem ive used that trick many times

is it shifting in to 4wd i dont know what model you have but the pushbutton 4wd system has a vacume line the likes to pop off usualy on the pasenger side between the strut tower and the fire wall

i got one side lifted the rear wheels are getting moved back about 7 inches for a 105 inch wheel base its gona need alot more bfh work on the front wheel wells but i shouldent have any issues the build is slowly creeping along now that the weather is getting better