bosango Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Greetings! I'm in need of a set of ej251 connecting rods for my 2002 Outback and it seems that they're rather hard to come by compared to other ej25 models. The ej251 (and I think the ej253) rods are 131.6 mm and the more common versions are 130.5 mm. My question is, if I put in the slightly shorter rods would it make any significant difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 yeah, your quench would be all messed up and your compression height way down. It'll run, but compression and hp will be in the toilet. SOHC EJ25 rods should all interchange as well as 1999 only EJ25D. I have a core quality EJ251 that I could pull rods from, but I don't have the time to pull it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosango Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Thanks, Matt. Dang, I never would have thought that 1.1 mm would make that big of a difference! This certainly isn't going to be a performance rebuild, just dependable transportation that I'll use until it's beyond repair. I was thinking that on some of the engines I've rebuilt there was at least that much build-up that had to be chipped off the pistons and those engines ran O.K. (except for gasket leaks, etc.). Is decreasing the quench "better" than increasing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Bad. Loose Quench effects the flame front negativly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) Locally, EJ2x engines are roughly in the $150~ range, complete. Might be easier to source a complete engine and just swap it in, or swap the block, or just pull parts that you need, and sell off the remaining bits. Might get lucky and find a complete car with tons of rust or physical damage but runs good, for next to nothing, that could be harvested and then parted out for an actual profit. My '95 Legacy is in the rusted out category atm but runs like a 60k mile car despite 190k on the clock. Plenty of these exist as prime part donor candidates. Edited April 9, 2018 by Bushwick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Locally, EJ2x engines are roughly in the $150~ range, complete. Might be easier to source a complete engine and just swap it in, or swap the block, or just pull parts that you need, and sell off the remaining bits. Might get lucky and find a complete car with tons of rust or physical damage but runs good, for next to nothing, that could be harvested and then parted out for an actual profit. My '95 Legacy is in the rusted out category atm but runs like a 60k mile car despite 190k on the clock. Plenty of these exist as prime part donor candidates. That's crazy. Can't get one for less than $600 around here. Usually more if they are going to be warrantied and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 $800 here, but a short block is $50-100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 I don't like putting in used 2.5 anythings. I always advise a fully rebuilt engine if they really want to keep the car. runs between $2500~4000 for the customer on the entire job depending on what we have to do to their block and heads. Sometimes it's cheaper to buy a Subaru shortblock rather than repair the old one. If it's just one rod slightly worn I just rebuild. If it's gotten really bad and slapped around a ton and/or been overheated I advise replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Subaru reman short block - $2300. 3 year / 36k warranty through Subaru Parts. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Yeah, pick a part for the win. Used to be 4 within a 35 mile radius, but I think they closed one of the Cleveland ones. They flat-rate the engines as 4 cylinder, 6, etc. I've seen non interference ej22, later ej22, and sohc/dohc ej25. Hell, was trying to sell my '95 awhile back (4eat/ej22 non interference w/190k) for I think $350 (complete car) and never got any interest. Doesn't smoke, knock, tick, no bind, and passed it last e-check. Made another winter with patch work rear strut after tower busted through and it's been a champ. Thinking of finding a non-rusted body and having everything swapped. They still exist in the wild if you look hard enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Pacific northwest has plenty of the body's your hoping for. Long way to Ohio though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 We scrap excellent condition bodies all the time. No one will buy them with a blown drivetrain. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 GD, That is a bummer. Up here in the rust/salt belt, we have lots of nice running cars that look like Swiss cheese. I have a trucking buddy that could put a couple on his flatbed and bring them to us if all they are going for is scrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 GD, That is a bummer. Up here in the rust/salt belt, we have lots of nice running cars that look like Swiss cheese. I have a trucking buddy that could put a couple on his flatbed and bring them to us if all they are going for is scrap.just go get one you want and bring it back yourself. It’s totally doable. I’ve gotten cars running and not from thousands of miles away multiple times. Anyone can do it. And if you don’t want to you’ll find out why it’s not financially viable to do what you’re suggesting. GD needs remdiated, driver does as well, then gas and determining what vehicle body, color, style, options etc people want and lining it all up one for one to fill the spots and spread out costs and getting paid up front before the vehicles and titles are here. Sounds easier than it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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