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No Crank no start... 2006 Subaru Outback

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Ok I am stumped.. I have a new Battery. I went out for a couple of hours came back home then went to start the car a few hours later .. nothing. Checked fuses, tapped the starter, lights are bright not dimming, radio works, blower motor fine. I turn the ignition to turn over: I hear multiple clicks ( like a wood pecker) also hear clicking in glove box. I tried turn car over in different gears too... Nope. So I left key on after I tried turning over all items on dash cluster are on I put shifter in reverse ( key still on) constant buzz under hood until I put back in park. Then it buzzing stops. Put back in reverse buzzing stars again. Any ideas ? Thank you in advance for any tips. 

Edited by Jsub

Sounds like the starter pin is actuated by the electro-magnetic coil (the pin that is driven by the starter motor to the flywheel) but the starter motor itself is not getting power. Or power through to spin.

 

  • Author

Is that a new starter.. or maybe an easy fix? 

double check battery cable connections. Charging circuit probably needs testing too.

has there been a history of lots of fuzzy battery corrosion? battery cables can corrode inside the insulation.

try whacking the starter a little harder - use a piece of 2x4 or similar.

 

Does the security light in the instrument cluster flash or stay on solid? 

 

Not sure if this is an XT model or not, if not it may not have the immobilizer system. 

Edited by 86BRATMAN

  • Author

These cables look like dinosaurs honesty...the crazy thing is I used to be able to wiggle the shifter in park. And it would go from no crank no start to starting. But now no such luck.

  • Author
1 minute ago, 86BRATMAN said:

Does the security light in the instrument cluster flash or stay on solid? 

There has been times when I’m driving the security alarm light is still flashing. With in the last 2 months only on occasion.

  • Author

What would be clicking in or near glove box during multiple clicks when I turn it over?

  • Author
59 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

double check battery cable connections. Charging circuit probably needs testing too.

has there been a history of lots of fuzzy battery corrosion? battery cables can corrode inside the insulation.

try whacking the starter a little harder - use a piece of 2x4 or similar.

 

 

  • Author

On the old battery I replaced like 5 months ago.. tons of fuzzy corrosion on mainly positive. Maybe bad positive post terminal? 

1 minute ago, Jsub said:

On the old battery I replaced like 5 months ago.. tons of fuzzy corrosion on mainly positive. Maybe bad positive post terminal? 

I doubt it. You said it used to start by wiggling the shifter in park.

Try starting it with the shifter in neutral.

The selector switch (neutral safety switch) may be out of adjustment or going bad.

Try this. Get a piece of wire 14 or 16 gauge long enough to go from the battery to the starter. Put it in Park and turn the key to ON.

On the back of the starter solenoid is a small wire that plugs in. Unplug it and put one end of your wire on the terminal the plug was on and touch the other end to the battery positive post. It should crank and start.

Let us know what happens.

  • Author

So an update:

i did put the car in Neutral (moved shifter side to side) it started.. it also shot these codes

C3479894-3F9C-4F62-B97C-7C486A273FDF.png

The code P0851 means the Engine Control Module does not see a good ground from the inhibitor switch (neutral safety switch) mounted on the transmission. It should see a ground in Park and Neutral and an open in any other position.

To verify this you can test it with an ohm meter. Unplug the "12" pin connector located on top of the bellhousing. First check pin 12 on the socket from the harness for a good ground. Then hook the ohm meter probes to pins 11 and 12. Move the shifter while watching the meter. It should read 0 or 1 ohm. If it reads higher or fluctuates replace the switch. There is an adjustment procedure when mounting the switch.

In the picture you are looking at the face of the plug on the wire going to the switch.

The other code may be because the engine is not cranking properly. Find out later once it is starting like it should.

Inhibitor switch connector.jpg

  • Author

Very good information, I appreciate it! Thank you.

If you are getting battery corrosion around the terminals it's likely because the terminals have been over tightened and broken the seal between the post and the plastic body of the battery. This is a common mistake and ruins the battery. 

The buzzing in gear is the PWM solenoids in the transmission. Normal.

Sounds like you need to replace the battery cables and terminals to me. Also the inhibitor switch on the side of the trans.

For good measure you should clean all the ground points you can find as well. 

GD

 

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