I just changed the belts on my Loyale following Mile's Fox EA82 Timing Belt video on YouTube. The car starts and idles great but it's gutless and has no power now. What could I have messed up on?

Have you adjusted the spark timing? 

You’ll need a timing light to do this. 

Cheers 

Bennie

I have never had to adjust the timing after replacing the timing belts.   If it's off by that much, that it effect drivability, it's more likely one or both are off a tooth.  I am assuming it ran fine before.

2 hours ago, DaveT said:

I have never had to adjust the timing after replacing the timing belts.   If it's off by that much, that it effect drivability, it's more likely one or both are off a tooth.  I am assuming it ran fine before.

It ran perfect before and still idles perfect. Can you explain what being off a tooth means and how I can fix it?

Possibly, one of the timing pulleys was off a small amount, 1 notch on a belt.  Carefully line up the marks, and double check that they are where they are supposed to be.   The center of the 3 ||| on the flywheel lined up to the arrow in the casting.  The little hole in each cam pulley - one will be straight up, the other straight down.  There is a notch in the back cover, at the top, to line up with.  Rotate the crank one revolution, the up and down holes should be swapped, and the one at the top should be right on it's mark.

Edited January 3, 20206 yr by DaveT

7 minutes ago, DaveT said:

Possibly, one of the timing pulleys was off a small amount, 1 notch on a belt.  Carefully line up the marks, and double check that they are where they are supposed to be.   The center of the 3 ||| on the flywheel lined up to the arrow in the casting.  The little hole in each cam pulley - one will be straight up, the other straight down.  There is a notch in the back cover, at the top, to line up with.  Rotate the crank one revolution, the up and down holes should be swapped, and the one at the top should be right on it's mark.

I did all this, the video went over it pretty well. Should I just take the belts off and try again more carefully?

Don't need to take them off if the marks are still lined up.  It's a double check.  Sometimes things move before you lock down the tensioners.

16 minutes ago, DaveT said:

Don't need to take them off if the marks are still lined up.  It's a double check.  Sometimes things move before you lock down the tensioners.

Okay and if it is off a tooth how do I fix this without taking the belts off? This is my first time changing a time belt so I'm still learning all the terms. thanks for your help and patience haha

Oh, if you find it off a tooth, then yes, you have to loosen the tensioner, preposition the cam, and reset the tensioner.

6 minutes ago, DaveT said:

Oh, if you find it off a tooth, then yes, you have to loosen the tensioner, preposition the cam, and reset the tensioner.

Okay I'll give it a shoot tomorrow morning and see what happens when I redo the timing on it

You have to take the belt off to re position, also, I forgot to mention.

On 1/2/2020 at 8:48 PM, DaveT said:

You have to take the belt off to re position, also, I forgot to mention.

I had accidentally moved the cam sprocket while putting the belt on so it was off a tooth. Its running great now! Thanks DaveT.

I love how these were designed to be installed in position where no valve spring tension is trying to rotate bits out of alignment.

The pin holes in the front face of cam cog with one at 12, other at 6 helps line stuff up, as does the line of the cam box to head join with things.

Really pays to spin a few times to check everything lines up and belt tension still good

Good to see you sorted and reported back

I  have also found it good to do this -  once the belts are on, but before putting anything else back, run it for 5 seconds.  Then put the crank in the proper position,  reset the tension, turn 1 revolution,  set the other.  This lets the belts walk into the position they want to run in, and almost always, they end up a little loose if you don't do it.