Loyalew/cheese Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Hey all, I just purchased a 93 loyale wagon two weeks ago. I don't have much experience with subaru's but I am trying to give this thing some TLC. I just replaced ball joints, wheel bearings, cv axles, and tie rods (inner and outer). I did not do control arms. However, when driving around today there was still quite a bit of clunking going on in the front drivers side when slowing down in general, not just braking, and when making sharp left turn, and the steering doesn't want to return on it own after turning. What is left to check or did I do something wrong? I have only driven it about 5 miles and havent looked too much into after that, but I thought I would get some ideas. I'm no expert, but I am wanting to revive this car as it is pretty clean with 150k on it and I think there is a lot of life left in it! Thanks in advance for any advice I can get! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Check the bushings on the various suspension links? Double check everything is tight? The axle nut is about 150 Ft Lbs. Cone washer and spring washer in place? Auto or stick? Check the gear lube level in the front diff. It is separate if it's an auto. Aftermarket front axles are notoriously poor quality. Bad CVJ usually make a clicking that corresponds to speed rhythmically, volume varies with steering angle. They can also make weird steering wheel wiggling. Things to know - Inspect and keep the cooling system in top condition. Radiator and the 7 hoses. Do not rely on the temperature gauge or idiot light to catch a problem, unless you want to replace head gaskets [or worse] along with fixing original the problem. Keep on top of this, and another 100K is not much of a big deal to get. At about 150K miles- one of the brushes in the alternator [if it is original] will wear out, and the dash light won't light enough to warn you. Also by 150K miles, the oil leaks usually are bad enough to want to do a reseal from the head gaskets up. Timing belts and all 3 idlers every 50K miles for max reliability. If one snaps, it doesn't destroy the engine, but it leaves you dead until you replace and re time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyalew/cheese Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 24 minutes ago, DaveT said: Check the bushings on the various suspension links? Double check everything is tight? The axle nut is about 150 Ft Lbs. Cone washer and spring washer in place? Auto or stick? Check the gear lube level in the front diff. It is separate if it's an auto. Aftermarket front axles are notoriously poor quality. Bad CVJ usually make a clicking that corresponds to speed rhythmically, volume varies with steering angle. They can also make weird steering wheel wiggling. Things to know - Inspect and keep the cooling system in top condition. Radiator and the 7 hoses. Do not rely on the temperature gauge or idiot light to catch a problem, unless you want to replace head gaskets [or worse] along with fixing original the problem. Keep on top of this, and another 100K is not much of a big deal to get. At about 150K miles- one of the brushes in the alternator [if it is original] will wear out, and the dash light won't light enough to warn you. Also by 150K miles, the oil leaks usually are bad enough to want to do a reseal from the head gaskets up. Timing belts and all 3 idlers every 50K miles for max reliability. If one snaps, it doesn't destroy the engine, but it leaves you dead until you replace and re time. It is a manual 4wd. I double checked and everything seemed tight from what I could tell but I will look into it more tomorrow. Already have been looking into doing a reseal so that is soon to come. Thanks for the advice and things to look at! I am sure there will be more questions to come ha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Not returning to center makes me suspect strut tops. Clunking is frequently sway bar/link bushings, but wouldn't effect your steering. Just disconnect it to test it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Check the steering rack bushings. Have someone turn the wheel while your looking at the rack under the car. The rack shouldn't move side to side at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalematt Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Be sure to check your wheel bearings also. If they are bad enough, they can give you some noise and since you just done the front axles, they had to pass through them so could be related. Congrats on the good find. These things are tough and run forever if you can feed them the parts and care they need with the age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.