4 hours ago, tjet said:

Quick question: On this ER27, I've noticed various ports and nipples on the intake manifold, engine case, and valve covers. These are for water, vacuum, oil and breather.

 I would like to know what I can eliminate on this engine. 

The throttle body coolant lines aren’t needed. Technically they’re needed for warning the throttle body in cold weather to prevent icing. I removed them while living in areas that get down to 0 degrees and “humid” without issues.

The large vacuum line is for brakes.  The smaller ones are for cruise control, and 4WD diff lock engagement of MTs. If you want to ditch those then you’ll have to remove those systems or find alternate operational methods.

The tiny U shaped coolant like up front behind the alt, I’m unsure but it’s integrated into the block and out of the way, unseen, so I’d just leave it. 

Edited March 5, 20206 yr by idosubaru

Yeah those heat coins are not installed by Subaru or from the factory.  That means a shop worked on it and installed it as part of their warranty. They won’t cover they’re specified warranty if you overheat it.

ive only ever seen them installed on engines that have gone to a machine shop.  I’ve never seen a mechanic install one. Makes sense that yards would but I’ve never gotten a yard engine with one on it. 

The ER27 is essentially an EA82 plus two more pots, bigger volume oil and water pumps.

I have not paid attention to the intake manifold - whether it is spider style or earlier flat manifold - suspect flat

On my EA82T I have deleted one coolant hose from centre of 1 & 3 side that went to throttle body and it's brother over near starter motor on manifold again.

So deleted the coolant warming circuit of throttle body which some say is needed to prevent icing up of throttle in cold conditions. Minus 9° C is not cold enough to cause me problems

EA82 also has a 5.5 mmID hose from top front centre of block to thermostat housing. Some need brass fittings replace the mild steel tubes rusting out.

I feel this hose is needed to bleed air from top of block to reduce/ prevent air pockets turning to steam pockets

Thanks again for the info.

Another question: What is this nipple on the back of the block (red arrow)?

It's completely plugged.

 

Edited March 10, 20206 yr by tjet

7 hours ago, tjet said:

Thanks again for the info.

Another question: What is this nipple on the back of the block (red arrow)?

It's completely plugged.

Crank case ventilation 

A hose connects from there to a metal tree which has 4 additional hoses connecting to the:

1. intake (see the ports on the picture of the bottom of an XT6 intake hose)

2. one for each valve covers (see the port on the top of each valve cover)

3. And the top most of the tree goes to the PCV valve in the intake manifold

Now It's starting to move into the performance side 

Both cams & followers getting shipped out for 264 duration torque grind...

 

 

Edited March 10, 20206 yr by tjet

Working on some exhaust ideas...

 

I thought this was a 6 cylinder not a 4?

Yeah these ER27 6 cyl engines have 2 cylinders on each side that share a exhaust port. 2 & 4 and 1 & 3 share the exhaust

Edited March 14, 20206 yr by tjet

Don’t know much about the 6 cylinders. Should have examined the artwork closer.

Question on the original fuel injectors. Before I send them out to Mr. Injector to get rebuilt, I'm wondering if there is a better flowing injector I can install that's a direct fit. I plan on increasing the horsepower some with cams & higher compression & exhaust - say around 190 to 210 HP with a 7000 RPM redline. The EFI system will be SDS EM5-F. They will need to know what injectors I will be using before I order the kit.

This links below looks interesting. Datsun 280z turbo fuel injectors as a direct swap? cool. The link also mentions Porsche 928 injectors as a direct swap option. Note, I'm assuming that an ER27 injector is similar to an EA82T.

Thanks  

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113427-ea82t-injectors/

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24633-nissan-injectors/

 

 

Edited March 16, 20206 yr by tjet

6 hours ago, tjet said:

Question on the original fuel injectors. Before I send them out to Mr. Injector to get rebuilt, I'm wondering if there is a better flowing injector I can install that's a direct fit. I plan on increasing the horsepower some with cams & higher compression & exhaust - say around 190 to 210 HP with a 7000 RPM redline. The EFI system will be SDS EM5-F. They will need to know what injectors I will be using before I order the kit.

This links below looks interesting. Datsun 280z turbo fuel injectors as a direct swap? cool. The link also mentions Porsche 928 injectors as a direct swap option. Note, I'm assuming that an ER27 injector is similar to an EA82T.

Thanks  

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113427-ea82t-injectors/

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24633-nissan-injectors/

 

 

Been years since I’ve been into the injectors like this. Yes EA82(T) and ER injectors are interchangeable.  
 

maybe you could ask the rebuild company if there are ways to improve the injectors you’re sending them?
 

I don’t think this will be the route you want but you might want to be aware.  Other EA82T market specs were higher output than US (Europe, JDM maybe) and some people said injectors were part of that equation. Though that doesn’t seem worth the effort, if it’s even true.

Good idea about asking the rebuilding company. Maybe they can check the flow rate to see if it will be sufficient for the power increase.

20 hours ago, tjet said:

Good idea about asking the rebuilding company. Maybe they can check the flow rate to see if it will be sufficient for the power increase.

Good thought, they may be set up to tell you what the injectors can do and support HP wise. When I’ve sent injectors to RC engineering and witchhunter (including XT6 injectors) they included before and after testing...of spray pattern, and maybe more. 

I reached out to Mr Injector. They are going to do what they can with the injectors and test each one. Once they get the data, they can determine if they wil flow enough to support a 200 HP engine. My heads are going to get worked on next week as well. As of now, the plan on the heads is to do a basic valve job & flat mill .014" off the surface. He will also take a look at the passages to see if there is any obvious airflow obstructions he can clean up. He isn't familiar with these unusual heads, so he wants to check them out before quoting me for porting.

Question on the head bolts: Are they torque-to-yield? 

I'm wondering if I should convert to head studs.

Thanks

Unless the ER27 has larger bolts than the EA82, you'll find that converting to studs will be pretty expensive, since they're an odd M11 size.

I noticed there are 2 lengths. I'm gonna take a look at the ARP catalog.

Do the fuel injectors lock in place on the fuel rail? 

On 3/21/2020 at 6:46 PM, tjet said:

Question on the head bolts: Are they torque-to-yield? 

I'm wondering if I should convert to head studs.

They are not torque to yield.  Reuse them If they’re not damaged. Clean bolt holes well and lube the head bolts and you’re done. 

If you’re staying NA then converting to studs will offer no advantage.  If you’re building some other than NA that’s out of my skillset and experience. 

8 minutes ago, tjet said:

Do the fuel injectors lock in place on the fuel rail? 

No, if by “lock in place” you mean do they require a special tool or procedure to remove. Do you have the FSM?

I have the factory xt manual. I think its vol 2. Thx for the info. I will reuse the headbolts

So I found out about the injectors. They will only support 170 HP max. They are 188cc/min. For my 200 horsepower estimate, I would need injectors that flow 220cc/min at 43.5 psi fuel pressure (non-turbo).

I'm fairly certain that my HP estimations will be at least 200+ due to the new cam grind, compression & headwork. 

I need to find a suitable set of injectors I can swap in that flow more.

The stock injectors are a ND 195500-1330 "yellow" injector, which are O-ring top feed. 

Thanks

 

 

 

Edited April 4, 20205 yr by tjet

Stock below. 

 

 

Edited April 4, 20205 yr by tjet

I found a list of compatible injectors (I think - don't quote me until I confirm). They all have the same prefix # of 195500-xxxx, which is a Denso O-Ring top-feed. The part # is on the top side of the injector on the plastic part.

They are in order of flow:

Stock ER27: 195500-1330, 188cc @ 3 BAR, yellow top, 13.5 Ω (170 HP max)

-1900, 208cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω

-2190, 210cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω

-1480, 212cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω

-1970, 212cc @ 3 BAR, blue top, 13.8Ω

-1980, 214cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω

-1960, 226cc @ 3 BAR, pink top, 13.6Ω (200+HP)

I found a used set of the -1980 cheap out of a 1989-98 Madza MPV with a 3.0 L six cyl, 200 HP . I'm going to send these to the injector rebuilder and confirm if they are a direct swap and get them rebuilt and flowed. Per the info above, they flow slightly less than the 220 needed (214cc), but I'd rather error on the cautious side. The injector flow #'s jumped up after the -1960 @ 226 cc to up in the 240cc+ range. The Mazda injectors were also way cheaper than all of the other injectors.

 

 

Edited April 4, 20205 yr by tjet

Since I'm waiting on a few things (my heads are in the shop, my cams got reground, and my injectors are in-work), I'v been working on my EFI harness. 

I'm wrapping the hall sensor with a shielded mesh. I'm trying to EMP proof my van - lol