Trying to do pads and rotors on my 92 Loyale, and I cant get the axles out of the front hubs. I took the sway bar and lower ball joint out. Removed the roll pin from the transmission, and pulled axle off so the inner is free. Stuck the lower ball joint in, removed the castle nut and flat washer. 

I can't get the axle to come out of the hub.  The cone washer isnt budging, and im wailing on it with a 10# sledge. Almost knocked it clean off the jack stands.

Just kept beating and it came out. I ended up putting the wheel back on in case it fell over!

 

Also I order new seals. The front outers i got are single lip with no dust shield!

Left WJB WS225230 = Bad! Single lip no dust shield

Right BECK/ARNLEY 0522227 = OEM double lip with dust shield

Edited May 7, 20205 yr by Ionstorm66

sometimes they're rusted so bad they won't come out.  use a press or heat.

if you smash the axle too hard it'll mushroom the threads and won't be able to pull through the hub until you cut/grind the end of the axle.  then the first 1-7 threads will be smashed tigther together and won't be reusable unless go through inordinate effort to reform/rechase axle threads which are huge and not available as dies.  even if you're not reusing the axle, my point is that they can be very difficult to remove.   a press or heat or continue to bash it with your sledge and plan on cutting/grinding the ends off so it can slide through. 

future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.

38 minutes ago, Numbchux said:

future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.

I broke two off in it and had the chisel them out.

Excellent glad you got it. 

Passenger side went without issue. As soon as a popped the lower ball joint out, she wiggled right out of the hub.

The thing I found most effective and least destructive is to use a piece of rod or bar stock as a drift.   Like 1/2" round, or 1/2"x1".  Something beefy about that size.   One end against the face of the washer, hit the other with a 1-2 lb hammer.    

The question I have is if he was simply doing pads and rotors why did need to remove the axle and knuckle?

 

4 hours ago, silverhelme said:

The question I have is if he was simply doing pads and rotors why did need to remove the axle and knuckle?

 

You have to remove the cone nut the free up the hub. I removed the lower ball joint so when i hammed the axle inwards, I didn't drive it into the transmission. On the passenger side it came out with a light tap, didn't have to loosen the knuckle or axle.