June 12, 20205 yr A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure. Edited June 12, 20205 yr by mkoch mistake composing
June 12, 20205 yr Without the hub on, there is no preload on the bearings. Re-install the hub and torque to spec. Now put the wheel on. With the car securely in the air, try to move the wheel. If you feel any slop or rattle, there is something wrong. Check balljoints and loose bolts first. If not, it's a bad bearing. Second way to check is while driving, you generally will hear or feel the bad bearing when it's the outside wheel on a turn. Edited June 12, 20205 yr by Ionstorm66
June 13, 20205 yr Author 7 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said: "Without the hub on, there is no preload on the bearings. Re-install the hub and torque to spec. Now put the wheel on. With the car securely in the air, try to move the wheel. If you feel any slop or rattle, there is something wrong. Check balljoints and loose bolts first. If not, it's a bad bearing. " .... I did this, I re-assembled the hub and wheel, and pulled on the wheel while it was off the ground. The bearing feels tight with the 36mm nut tightened. Thank you, group! mkoch
June 13, 20205 yr 1 hour ago, aba4430 said: The bearing was moving in the housing. Did not look OK to me. They are tapered roller bearings. The outer race is separate from the rollers, and is pressed into the knuckle. The are tapered so the require preload to be tight. Tapered bearings can take load in two directions, so when you corner and the car pushes against the wheel, that is still riding on the bearing. If there was a normal caged ball bearing, that side load would cause significant wear. The fronts have much larger ball bearings to compensate for the side loading. Edited June 13, 20205 yr by Ionstorm66
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