it does crank significantly faster with the security box unplugged and jumped. Crank issue solved! 

I'm pondering about the starting issue. Fuel, Spark, more ECU things? 

On 8/29/2020 at 4:32 AM, Ez30D-4.444 said:

1 Check engine light MAF. its not installed so I can reach the wires under it.

Did you connect the MAF sensor? Some engines will not run without it connected. Also, if it is bad the engine can shut off instead of idling.

since it began to correctly crank, to be frank, P0182 Fuel Temp Sensor (A) Low/no input appeared. Probably due to it not being plugged in, on thee R1 R2 R3 to B97 B98 B99 connections plug terminal, the proper FTS wire color/location is what's in question. I'm not sure which wire it is.

And P0113 IAT I'll get it plugged in,  I may have to order one, I'm not sure if my Impreza IAT Sensor will fit. I'll look again. 

also a bizarre clicking sound happens for 2 seconds on every 1st cold start attempt. I was thinking it was a Starter Auto to Manuel Conversion thing.

shush the thought under the carpet.

now I'm thinking it maybe 1 Ignition coil firing on first cold ignition key turn. ECU wire crossed/Not grounded perhaps, worst case scenario....

Occurs 1st time every time I Enter ON Position on the ignition switch, also if I wanted to recreate the sound I disconnect/reconnect ground from the battery and turn key to ON,  Rapid Clicks. 

Edited September 10, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

Clicking doesn't happen on the 2nd 3rd or 4th, so on, cranking attempts.

Would a bad Camshaft position sensor prevent the car from starting/idling without throwing a CEL code?

Edited September 10, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

Forget my last post, the 03 H6 engine does not use a MAF sensor. It uses a MAP sensor and Air Temp sensor which would be included in the harness and ECU you installed.

Labeled E20 in the schematics. 2 pin plug. I can not find a plug that matches on the bulkhead wire harness. 

I'm unable to post a picture of it

2MB is tiny. Blk n Wht pics only noted.

E20 is not connected it looks like it would be connected to somewhere close by on the stock air intake manifold.

And I don't have it. I'll find out if my local Auto parts store has the correct matching sensor. I'll know more tomorrow.

Map sensor in on the throttle body. Air Temp sensor number 10 in the drawing, is on the air box connector E20. I guess they don't want it in the direct flow of air, but off to the side.

Map sensor appears to be good. No corrosion. Good connection. 

IAT sensor installed 1 CEL vanished.

Lastly P0182.

Doubting the strength of this fuel pump/ temp sensor.

I'll attempt to start it soon. After I check my fuel pump/sensor connections

I can't thank you enough.

Edited September 11, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

8 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

I'll attempt to start it soon. After I check my fuel pump/sensor connections

Did you get the wiring harness that goes to the fuel pump including the fuel pump assembly? There is a big difference in the wiring for that plug on the 97 and the 03.

No. Entire front end + engine + bulk head wire harness stopping at B99 B97. 

Also forget about that clicking nonsense. Phantom forums lead me wrong and their suggestions have been undone and corrected.
I'm avoiding driving back to Portland to collect the rest. TBF

I used both vehicles engine performance schematics, followed each wire to its correct terminal pin location. 
And only connected wires that were confirmed by the schematics before connecting the links and every start attempts. 

Battery was/is always unplugged in between attempts. Electrical short prevention.

P0182 suggests that a wire going to the Fuel temp sensor is missing or miss put. 
According to the engine performance schematic
RL (red blue) is supposed to connect to pin 27 on plug B99(32pin) also RL. 

I must be missing one still... or its the Fuel pump assembly, like you suggested.

The pin layout on the fuel pump connectors R58 are different between the two vehicles. The fuel pump gets power from pins 1 and 4 on the 97 and pins 1 and 2 on the 03. And the Fuel Temp sensor pins are different.

Besides that, the later model uses a Fuel Pump Control Module which the 97 does not have. Both use a fuel pump relay, but on the newer one the Fuel Pump Control Module supplies a hot from the relay and also a ground to the Fuel Pump.

It will take some time, but I will try to sort it out and see what wires must be moved on the B99 and B97 connectors.

I appreciate it, also try not to invest to much personal time on this project  of mine.  It's time siphoning.

If I'm missing something I should do my own home work, and find what I'm missing.

on the B97 plug I have, Pin 2 is Wht-Blk, pin 5 is Black(Ground) Pin 6 is LY(Blue yellow), I'm not saying this is correct. its just the only combination of wire pin terminals, that I've been able to get control of the fuel pump.

Do you know of any Blue-Black and Green Black wires needing to be splice and/or grounded in the Speedometer/gauge cluster plugs?

Edited September 12, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

2 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

Speedometer/gauge cluster plugs?

I have not looked at that yet.

Just so I don't get mixed up, Are the B97 and B99 connectors the 10 and 20 pin connectors originally on the 97 Impreza?  I know you said you got the Bulkhead wiring, but the under dash wiring is also called Bulkhead wiring.

Outback-H6  B97(8pin) to Impreza R1(10pin)

Outback-H6  B99(32pin) to Impreza R3 (20pin)

Not every wire is being used 2 Rear speakers/2 backup light/ 2 blinkers/ trunk brake light wires and maybe 1 fuel temp wire not plugged in. 

and not every H6 wire terminal  is being used only the needed terminals for Engine Electrical Performance.

Edited September 13, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

Thanks, I wanted to be sure.

Right now I'm also working on a laptop for a friend, but I'll get back to you soon.

For the Fuel Temp sensor, the Red/Yellow wire Pin 18 from the Impreza B99 goes to Red/Lavender(blue) pin 27 on the H6 connector B99. Hopefully the sensors are the same. That is something I don't know.

The other Temp Sensor wire Black/red Pin 7 Impreza B97 will go to Black/yellow Pin 13 on the H6 B99. Make sure Pin 13 goes to 12v with the IGN key ON. That will also supply power for the fuel gauge.

On B97 you are right about L/y hooked to Pin 6 R/b for the fuel pump.
The W/B colored wires go together for stop lights.
And Pin 5 is ground.

Edited September 13, 20205 yr by Rampage

Yep, I had the Black/red wire out of place, it was in Pin 11 now its Corrected. Pin 13, Nice work!  Thanks again.

I have been searching around for the forum site, with no luck,  that suggested on the Instrument  panel wire harness. There's a Green-black wire from i10 that "should" be connected to a Blue-black wire from i11,  extra wire ends then grounded.

Also, Do you know of a wire from B135 (ECM connector) a Red wire on the bottom row that "needs" to be cut and grounded for any reason.

Are these two rumors worth listening to? 

Edited September 14, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

Found 1

The picture about half way through the page

 https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/how-to-2001-h6-4eat-to-5spd-swap.358826/

Edited September 14, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444

23 hours ago, Ez30D-4.444 said:

Also, Do you know of a wire from B135 (ECM connector) a Red wire on the bottom row that "needs" to be cut and grounded for any reason.

Manual a/c does not show connector B135.

Automatic a/c shows connector B135 and pin 23 Red wire goes to a 4pin connector on the Pressure Switch. They don't say which switch, the High Pressure Cut Out or Low Pressure Cut Out switch in the Freon circuit. (one pair of contacts normally closed and one pair normally open) The Red wire connects to a normally open contact on the switch. The other contact is ground. The normally closed contacts power the a/c control module and the coil of the a/c relay for the compressor clutch.

If the pressure is normal, then the Red wire would be normally open and not grounded.

Depending on which side it is on, that pressure switch would only operate if the High Side pressure goes too high or the Low Side goes too low and it will cut power to the a/c relay (controls the compressor clutch) and the a/c Control Module. If that happens then the Red wire pin 23 would be grounded and the ECU would see that. What it does with that info I am not sure. With the compressor shut off maybe it will cut back on engine idle or power.

Since the ECU is looking for a ground on pin 23 to indicate a problem, there will be voltage on it, probably with the key ON. Check it for voltage. If it shows voltage, I would just leave it.

I have to do some more research on the i10 and i11 wires.

Those connector numbers suggest you are using the 03 instrument cluster, right?

Edited September 15, 20205 yr by Rampage

On 9/15/2020 at 6:27 AM, Rampage said:

Those connector numbers suggest you are using the 03 instrument cluster, right?

Yes, 03 instrument cluster.

Your name suits you well...

That is some astonishing work you have done. Truly IOU. I'm at a lack of Questions due to your responses. And I have no more gremlins to short through nor to look for.

Speechless.

no rush. its on Pause for the moment I'm waiting on a part in the mail. I'm now sure because of you this car will now Start next attempt. Easy like it implies. EZ30 

 

 

Actually I got my name from the 84 Dodge Rampage I had back in the mid 90's. Nice truck, FWD black with gold and silver pin stripes with a cap. I worked for an ISP and wanted a second email address and Rampage popped into my head. Been using it ever since. I started with electrical, electronics back when they used tubes and cars when I was a kid and I still have things to learn. The first vehicle I drove at 8 years old was my uncles Model T pickup. I was 12 or 13 when I rebuilt my first flathead V8 in one of my two 51 Merc coupes.

I'll work on the i10 and i11 thing and see what I can find out.

Good luck and thanks for the nice comment.

Just to let you know I did not forget. I had to order toner for my laser printer. I need to print several pages of the wiring diagram so I can compare the wiring of i10 and i11 and the circuits they connect to. The wiring diagram spreads the connectors out over numerous pages. I'll be back when the toner shows up.

This link was in the article you posted earlier. It has good info on using existing wiring for the speed sensors mounted on the tranny. You can use a large as possible paperclip or a small flat jewelers screwdriver with the edge of the blade against the pin to release the tab so you can pull the pins out of the connector and put them in different holes. If you have an old unused connector experiment on it first. The tool has to be inserted on one side of the pin. There is usually a small slot for the tool. I have done that many times with electrical equipment. You may have to pry the tab back out a little so it will lock in place when inserted.

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2005-how-to-wire-your-4eat-to-5mt-swap.414786/

For the i10, i11 thing, I would not do that. Pin 13 of i10 is the vehicle speed sensor input to the speedometer. Check out the combination meter wiring in the FSM.

That's one sleek ride... I have new found respect for the Dodge Rampage, they look timeless. 

New.. new battery is in. 

TCM plugs(B56,B55)

(B56) pin 21 white/red to pin 24 Blue (B55). easy enough.

Ground Red/Black wire to Chassis. also done

then (B56) pin 1 VVS signal line to Black ground wire on  B55 is where I'm stuck. I didn't see a wire to ground it to, on B55. so I tried the chassis ground system. 

I'll know more soon...

 

Edited October 1, 20205 yr by Ez30D-4.444