Good Day!

I'm suffering a  leak from the passenger side (right ) rear camshaft cap. It was leaking when I installed the engine, so I just acquired the correct O-ring:  Engine Camshaft Seal O Ring 806946030.

When I reinstalled it, the cap installed a little more snugly then the last time I'd done this task, and I used the two 'wing' bolts to suck it in to the head. 

Still Leaked.

So, wondering if it (or I did it) was possibly warped or whatever can happen to this part?

 

Example:

 

Any feedback is appreciated.

And wondering If I can just use some RTV around it to stop the leak?

 

Thanks

P.s. FWIW, the engine ran great (I've since pulled for another engine upgrade), and other than the leak, didn't appear to consume oil.

Edited May 18, 20214 yr by wtdash

Are the ears notably offset and not sitting flush if installed without bolts right now? Can you get a feeler gauge in there?  Can you mic for flatness?  Check distance from engine side end/base to each ear and compare?

appropriately placed RTV would sure it up if you think installing normally won’t work. 

They can be hard to seat. Oil it up well for lubrication to assist seating, ensure it’s going in flush, then lightly twist back and forth with the ears to rock it back in place.

I've had good results with using anaerobic rtv as lubricant for the oring and tapping it in firmly with a mallet to bottom it out.  Good part about anaerobic rtv is it only sets where metal touches metal and doesn't clog if it falls into oil.

 

Brilliant suggestion above. 

Only concern I would have is, are you assembling this engine out of the vehicle (you said you removed it for an engine swap), to sit for awhile, and then be used again later?

If thats the case - I’ve had anaerobic sealant that sat for long periods of time in my garage cure unused in the bottle. Can it cure, due to sitting, in the engine like it has on my shelf?  Or is anaerobic always dissolvable even after curing?

I've used Gray RTV, a light bead at the 90 Degree before the o-ring is put on.  When you install the cap the RTV will be pushed out between the engine and the cap.

1 hour ago, lmdew said:

I've used Gray RTV, a light bead at the 90 Degree before the o-ring is put on.  When you install the cap the RTV will be pushed out between the engine and the cap.

I’d do that. Did you ever have one leak or just did it for insurance?

4 hours ago, idosubaru said:

.... - I’ve had anaerobic sealant that sat for long periods of time in my garage cure unused in the bottle. Can it cure, due to sitting, in the engine like it has on my shelf? .....

By definition it should only cure in the absence of air.

Contrary to your experience I've found a mostly used tube after 6 months and it was viable .

For the OP, make sure it's seated well, and use any rtv you wish as a precaution.

Subaru  doesn't use any in original installation.

O.

 

39 minutes ago, ocei77 said:

Contrary to your experience I've found a mostly used tube after 6 months and it was viable 

That’s the same as my experience over the years, always have bottles for months or years. There was ‘one incident’ where the bottle was cured or partially cured. Or maybe my memory is faulting me!

It doesn’t cure in the bottle, so something else other than “absence of air” is required. Metal. I only bring this up due to the possibility of the engine sitting awhile. If it’s used copiously on an engine that will sit, how much of the excess amount hardens that’s adjacent to metal and lies under the surface of the sealant, ie. not exposed to air?

Im sure it’s fine, I’d avoid excessive amounts and use it.  always been curious of the limits of anaerobics.

 

18 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Brilliant suggestion above. 

Only concern I would have is, are you assembling this engine out of the vehicle (you said you removed it for an engine swap), to sit for awhile, and then be used again later?

If thats the case - I’ve had anaerobic sealant that sat for long periods of time in my garage cure unused in the bottle. Can it cure, due to sitting, in the engine like it has on my shelf?  Or is anaerobic always dissolvable even after curing?

Yes, the engine was out and very clean. 

It needs to touch conductive surfaces like metals, be sealed away from oxygen for a while, a week is good.  It continues to set months later.  It stops being dissolvable after curing.  It only works for metal to metal, and only if the gap is paper thin between the metals. 

I haven't seen an old tube fully cure, but seen one get lumpy.  Not sure how the physics of it works, but maybe something to do with conductivity.

Edited May 20, 20214 yr by nvu

Thanks for the info.

I haven't been getting update notifications.

I updated my password.....oops.