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Key works for everything but starting


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I don't have anything this new, so I don't know whether this is a key transponder thing or similar.

But what you're saying is confusing.  You're saying you have three keys, two of them make the motor go vroom, and the third doesn't?

So this is a key problem and not a car problem i.e. the car hasn't been programmed for the transponder in the nonworking key?

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Yep, 2 master keys and a valet key. A master and the valet work on everything. One master key with the new battery does everything except start the car. I’m not sure if I need to try the coding process in the manual. And if did try that, would I be risking the deletion of the codes for the two keys that actually work. At this point, I’m probably just going to had this off to the dealer at an upcoming oil change/inspection. The last thing I want to do as an amateur is widen the problem. If there is a “for sure” solution, I’ll do it. But uncertainty never seems to work out!

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To reiterate:  I don't know anything about transponder keys or if this car uses them.  My comments are based on the assumption that it does.

My guess is that you're confusing the key's transponder with the key's keyless entry transmitter.  They are not the same thing.  Just for yuks, take the battery out of the key that works.  It won't (un)lock the doors, but does it still start the car?

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A valid suggestion too.  Mine was based on the assumption that, while the remote entry transmitter is active (that is, it needs a battery to work), the key transponder is passive, like an RFID tag.  And while programming the car for the former (pairing) is usually a user operation, I would guess that programming the car for a transponder would have to be done by the dealer.

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So I followed the coding directions in the manual and tried enough times to load the bad key, that the code from the good key’s code was erased. It still started the car, but the buttons just didn’t work. Then I opened up the good key to get the code number and programmed that eight digit code and it started working again (both the buttons and turning and keeping the engine on). I’m pretty sure this means that the bad key simply has a bad transmitter. It’ll start the engine for a second or two and then it just shuts down. At least I know what needs to be replaced now - probably, maybe, potentially?!?! 

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There is a transponder in the key that must be paired with the ECU in order to start the car - this is a dealer process, not the user.  Either they pairing was lost and can be restored, or the transponder is bad; only the dealer has the tools to diagnose and repair this.  You really need to have a second working key because if one is lost or destroyed the process to repair it is long (ECU has to be sent to Subaru) and expensive (I've seen prices upwards of $600).

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Yep. AFAIK, the only pairing process that can be done yourself is for the keyless entry. But it sounds like you have an immobilizer issue. If a previous owner added a key (either of your working keys), but didn't bring in that second master, it would be cleared from the immobilizer memory. Or maybe they had one cut and never bothered to have it programmed....

 

But yea, you could try calling local locksmiths and see if they can work with that system, but likely dealer only.

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  • 8 months later...

This is strange, and I would recommend maybe getting it checked out with your dealer. I have a 2005 Ford 500. It was running absolutely fine, with zero issues. Then on Christmas, my daughter took our car keys from our bag at her house and drove the car without our permission. Then, I couldn't get the key to turn in the car's ignition at all. I had two sets of keys, and I was sure I was using the correct ones. Neither wouldn't turn at all, and the keys weren't worn much at all either. I didn't know what to do. I found these courses online https://www.howtobecomealocksmith.org/locksmith-jobs/ and somehow, I managed to repair the keys.

Edited by jeniffergate
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