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New to me 2001 outback 2.5 manual


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Just wanted to see if there is anything specific I need to check on.

I'm going to do searches for any tsb's and other stuff but wanted any input you all might have on it.

153k has some ticking from the engine. Not sure if it is lifter or piston slap.

Runs good.

EDIT son took it out to show his brother how to drive a standard and muffler fell off.  LOL

Got one ordered.

Thanks

Hush

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They’re fairly great. I have a small fleet of them now. 2002,2003,2003,2003 all Legacy or Legacy Outback. 
 

In 2004 and after you’ll get the fly by wire deal so no more throttle cable. And if you do an engine swap there’s a little work around for the EGR is swapping against the 2000-02 with a 2003 or 2004. 
 

You might never need that info since they generally run pretty well. 

Oh the piston slap in one of ours. Mostly when cold then quiets down. That’s the “new” lifter noise. Lifters aren’t as loud as the EA engines. 
 

Worse problem with driving these is just the usual - other drivers. 

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Lifts can rock if not adjusted regularly. I need to do ours as it sounds like an EA81. 

EJ251: The only issue they have for daily driving is a touchy throttle between no throttle and very light throttle. I find this annoying and am yet to find a solution - not that I’m looking hard as I’m too busy driving it then when I’m not I’m doing other things… 

If you have the leaking coolant crustiness on the outside of the head, replace head gaskets with the Multi Layer Steel (MLS) units from the STi - someone here knows the part number for these. 

I replaced ours and zero issues for 200,000kms so far. Engine now done 515,000kms which we’re stoked about. Still pulls like a freight train through the rev range. Uses a little oil but I’m not worried about that.

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Thanks for all the input.

I am currently changing out the muffler.

Then going to change all the struts out.

After that I will probably do a tune up and check the valve clearances.

I too have a touchy throttle from idle. But the car did set for 5 years, and I have only run through 1/3 tank with some fuel additive in it, so it might even out later.

Or I might clean out the throttle body and see if that helps.

Hush

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  • 1 month later...

They're a solid platform.  Interference engine so I'd immediately be installing all new Subaru or Aisin timing belt, tensionser, pulleys, and water pump if it's in good enough condition to warrant that.  You don't really want a 25 year old lower cogged idler - they are by far the most failure prone item on there.

If minimalist is preferred:  replace the timing belt and lower cogged idler - those are the two parts most likely to fail. The others don't fail often anyway and often times give you warnings the others don't.  After market belts and pulleys aren't as good, I've seen the pulleys fail and the included tensioner bolts shear. 

While you're in there it's not a bad idea to reseal the oil pump (anaerobic sealant, one o-ring, and the crank seal) and tighten the backing plate screws - more than one are always loose. 

Edited by idosubaru
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There seems to be some piston slap or rocker arm noise. So I am planning on doing the adjustments on the valves and reseal the covers.

Probably will do the timing belt at that time also.

Changed out one of the axles and did an inner tie rod end and new boots on the rack.

Thanks

Hush

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14 hours ago, idosubaru said:

If minimalist is preferred:  replace the timing belt and lower cogged idler - those are the two parts most likely to fail. The others don't fail often anyway and often times give you warnings the others don't.  After market belts and pulleys aren't as good, I've seen the pulleys fail and the included tensioner bolts shear. 

100%.  It's really interesting to me that the toothed idler fails at such a higher rate than the smooth ones.  The one spontaneous timing failure of an EJ25 I've experienced in about a dozen years of driving these things was that idler seizing, and the result wasn't pretty.

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