1986 GL-10 Turbo FWD. Just pulled motor (not tranny) to replace headgaskets/t-belts. Got it all back in, starts fine runs fine, but now, tranny wont go into any gears. I will shift from Park to Reverse to Drive, but it will just stay in Neutral. I put the right amounts of fluid in the tranny, and still nothign... Any ideas?

I've read something about the center splined shaft (main pump drive) pulling out enough to disengage, I dont know if the torque converter will position properly with the shaft out, but it might. Did you have the TC out of the trans?

 

Gary

I've read something about the center splined shaft (main pump drive) pulling out enough to disengage, I dont know if the torque converter will position properly with the shaft out, but it might. Did you have the TC out of the trans?

 

Gary

 

I pulled the engine with the tq converter connected to the flywheel, i didnt take it off the flywheel, but when we pulled it, some fluid came out of the female simput shaft slot.

someone told me that there is a special way to mount the tq converter into the imput shaft, and if its not done correctly, it wont go into any gears. Somthing about the center shaft not lining up? Anyone second this?

I pulled the engine with the tq converter connected to the flywheel, i didnt take it off the flywheel, but when we pulled it, some fluid came out of the female simput shaft slot.

All_talk is almost certainly right. You don't want to pull the torque converter still bolted to the flex-plate ("flywheel") if you can avoid it, and you don't reinstall the engine that way. You will almost certainly need to pull the engine again (or at least WAY forward) in order to properly seat the torque converter onto its shafts.

 

There was a recent thread about this that mentioned how to do this and what to listen/feel for to know that it seated on its shafts properly. If you can't find it, repost here and I will try to hunt it down... unless someone beats me to it.

All_talk is almost certainly right. You don't want to pull the torque converter still bolted to the flex-plate ("flywheel") if you can avoid it, and you don't reinstall the engine that way. You will almost certainly need to pull the engine again (or at least WAY forward) in order to properly seat the torque converter onto its shafts.

 

There was a recent thread about this that mentioned how to do this and what to listen/feel for to know that it seated on its shafts properly. If you can't find it, repost here and I will try to hunt it down... unless someone beats me to it.

 

yeah i cannot find it, ive been searching but i find nothing...

I'm not sure that I dound the one that I was looking for, but found a couple that are relevant. Basic idea is that when you install the torque converter onto the shaft (multiple sets of splines) that you have to rotate it (the tc) until you hear a certain number of clicks.

 

Warning: You may not like what they say about damage.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20458&highlight=converter+turning

 

and

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9941&highlight=splines+turning

I'm not sure that I dound the one that I was looking for, but found a couple that are relevant. Basic idea is that when you install the torque converter onto the shaft (multiple sets of splines) that you have to rotate it (the tc) until you hear a certain number of clicks.

 

Warning: You may not like what they say about damage.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20458&highlight=converter+turning

 

and

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9941&highlight=splines+turning

THanks, that information will help tons. Wish me luck as the motor is comming out soon...

THanks, that information will help tons. Wish me luck as the motor is comming out soon...

Good luck.

make sure the main wiring harnesses are plugged in. for the XT's there are two main wiring harnesses. they can be very tricky to push ALL THE WAY in. looks very simple, but sometimes they aren't seated all the way and maybe you could have an inoperable trans if it's not plugged in. on the XT6 these two connectors are on the passengers side of the engine. check these. they are very large and it's like they are sealed or something, making them very hard to press together sometimes.

 

you could pull the ATF hoses off and see if any fluid is being pumped through them. if no fluid comes out, then that's likely a sure sign you'll have to pull something (trans or motor).

 

is it possible you disconnected or contacted the shifter linkage for any reason, maybe thought about pulling the trans...etc?

 

i'm only familiar with the XT6 auto trans, but the TC is slightly tricky to install. the FSM explains it well. it will seem seated, but still has like 1/4 " to go or something like that. sounds like it might be the same for this motor.

 

that being said, i know someone installed an XT6 without lining the TC up properly and the transmission was indeed trashed....i think it destroys the pump somehow.

 

AGAIN - this is XT6 specific so i don't know how much of this pertains to you.

 

if you really think you need to pull....checked wiring harnesses....then i'd consider pulling the motor and trans at the same time. makes installing the TC much easier. and then if you do have to intsall a new tranny, it's already out. with the motor out, the trans is literally only like a couple more bolts and just pull it out attached to the motor as an assembly. and reinstall the same way. very easy and clean.

sounds like you need to restab the input shaft. and when you put the engine back in, the TQ has to be on the tranny side. install it to the tranny, then put the engine in, and then you put the tq bolts into the play via the timing hole in the bell housing or in the hole where the starter goes.

 

what I do is take the input shaft out, line it back up until it goes all the way back in, and then give it a good swift kick to set it into place

well bad news for me, **** has definatly hit the fan. Pulled motor, and well you guys seemed to have called it, the smallest shaft (i believe the pump shaft) was twisted and ground away. Im pretty pisseed as this is supposed to be a 200dollar project including the price of the car. ANy suggestions?

Can you just replace the pump shaft? I would think the TC would be OK.

 

Todd

the smallest shaft (i believe the pump shaft) was twisted and ground away.

Which end? The inside-the-tranny end, which might mean goobered internal splines, or at least metal shavings everywhere?

 

Sorry. Not making you feel better, am I?

 

A thought: Throwing away 3ATs seems to be a popular pastime with some members. (USMB Mantra: "Do a manual tranny conversion.")

 

Now, this must mean that at any given moment there are 3ATs kicking around that the owners don't want. Maybe you should ask if there are any available?

 

If yours is truly toast, might be worth a shot.

Ground metal in an auto tranny is VERY bad, and I've heard that the 3AT doesn't even have a filter. Yep... If it were me I'd be looking for a good used unit.

 

Gary

Yep, the 3AT (at least the version I've seen), only has an intake screen.

 

*IF* the internal end got damaged, hopefully the metal debris will settle out and get excluded by the screen.

Not sure if the EA81 auto trannys are the same as EA82 or not but i have a EA81 3 speed auto thats no good but has a good center spline.

 

Also i have a EA81 turbo tranny that works great.

 

Anyone know if the center splines interchange from EA81 to 82?

 

And would the EA81 auto go in with ease?

anyone?

I don't know the answer right now, but (hopefully) within a couple of days I will have an EA81T 4WD 3AT to compare against my from-an-EA82T 4WD 3AT. Might be able to tell more about diff between these two.

 

My belief is that they are the same.