teasdam Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 blower settings 1 and 2 have never worked in this car, but 3 and 4 have sufficed so far. All of sudden, nothing works...just as the first real snow has started to fall too. Looking at the wiring diagram I'm thinking the order to check for continuity is the relay, the motor itself, resistor, the finally the setting switch. So, where is the relay? Do I have to check anything on the resistor or does that all just depend on the switch position? Anything tips/tricks I should be aware of? Since settings 1 and 2 have never worked, I'm thinking its probably a faulty switch so maybe I should start there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 check all fuses in fuse panel the resistors in the air duct often break, search for resistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 Even with a blown resistor pack, the highest speed should still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 remember, as with most electrical systems on a Subaru - it's a ground controlled system This means the blower motor has battery positive voltage any time the key is in the run position. The switch and the resistor block control the ground or negative side of the motor. As Calebz correctly states (an item missed by many) The switch by passes the resistor block in high speed. It puts full ground on the motor. I would pull the motor/squirrel cage down and have a look for quests that may have built a home there. Do this after checking to see if battery voltage is present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveAP Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 I just posted about my blower problem a few days ago. Took it to the elec. rebuilder shop, turned out to be bad brushes in the motor. All four speeds were out, occaisionaly if I hit a bump hard it would go on, but after a while that quit also. '87 brat '78 brat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted November 23, 2004 Author Share Posted November 23, 2004 There are two wires going to the motor. I can control the voltage through them using the switch as before...no power on 1 or 2, while both 3 and 4 are up at 12 volts (I never could tell much difference between the two settings.) Does this tell me that the resistor is still broken, but not the reason the motor won't go at all? Where is the resistor? I haven't been able to follow the wires far enough to find it. Still need to drop the blower to check for squirrels and the like, but so far I see no signs of uninvited denizens. Maybe brushes are bad as mentioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 Im not 100% certain this is the case in subes, but i have seen it in another car, the resistors are loopy wires mounted inside the vent ducts, (resistors disapate heat and this heat needs to be carried away so it dosent cause a fire ect.) Im suspecting a faulty switch, or wires running between the switch and resistors There should be 4 wires (i think) running between the switch and resistors (Blue/yellow, Black, Blue/Black, Blue/White), then from the resistors to the motor should be 2, (Blue, Green/White) Note. these are the colours from the 1987 carbed car, but should be similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 I suspect faulty switch or wires from switch to resistors In the wiring diagram for a 1987 Carbed Wagon (87 - latest cars are supposed to be the same) Black wire from (Turn signal flasher Unit to switch) (then from switch to resistors) Black, Blue/Black, Blue/Yellow, Blue/White wires. (then from resistors to motor) Blue, (& other wire from motor should be Green/White and go to the heater realy Hope you can follow that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 Not to be rude but now I remember why I quit trying to help you in the past.... You do not say you checked for voltage at the motor - but it must be present since you say you can control the speed??? if the relay/ power feed is to blame you will not have battery voltage on the Green w/ white wire at the motor. Please read this - there are three (3) fuses in the fuse box that are required to make this system operate. fuse # ----- power to 1 ------------blower relay contacts 2 ------------blower relay contacts (wired in parallel with #1) 12-----------blower relay control coil ( powered from ig sw.) Here is where your resistors are. Hope this helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted November 23, 2004 Author Share Posted November 23, 2004 in the process of removing the motor, I had to remove the resistor block so I happened to stumble across the resistor last night. The last 2 of the 3 coils were broken, explaining why settings 1 and 2 were out. The remaining coil had come corrosion stuff caked on it which I assume was acting as a short so there was less resistance than there should have been, explaining why settings 3 and 4 were about the same. (The carfax report showed that the car used to reside on the east coast, so it is a bona fide rust bucket.) When I said I could control the "speed" I meant I could control the power level going to the motor...so yes skip there is voltage. Also, turning off the vents altogether cuts power to the motor, so the relay must be working. Fuses were the first thing I checked and they're all good. (Part of the problem is that the Chilton wiring diagram is similar, but not the same.) So, as I see it, the resistor need to be replaced so I can have all my speeds back, and the motor needs to be replaced so I can have anything at all. Called two automotive electronics places and they both recommended just replacing the motor instead of trying to replace the brushes or messing with anything like that. Advance has motors for $47 but no resistors. May be time for a u-pull-it job. thanks for the replies...I didn't make it too far the other day without the defroster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 ...I had to remove the resistor block so I happened to stumble across the resistor last night. The last 2 of the 3 coils were broken, explaining why settings 1 and 2 were out. The remaining coil had come corrosion stuff caked on it which I assume was acting as a short so there was less resistance than there should have been, explaining why settings 3 and 4 were about the same. The "corrosion stuff" is a ceramic epoxy (or similar), its used to stabilize the coils and keep them separated. Problem is it holds moisture next to the coil causing it to corrode and break. Side note: the reason these failures are common is not the fault of the coil blocks themselves, but due to the fact that the blower intake is capable of ingesting a lot of water and the resistor is at the lowest point in the intake tract. During heavy rain on the freeway with lots of trucks throwing up spray, both of my Subes will suck in water if the blower is set on the higher speeds, its enough water to drip out of the resistor block and puddle on the floor mat. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted November 23, 2004 Author Share Posted November 23, 2004 doh! ...good to know before I go scrounging through junkyards for a resistor without any "corrosion". Knocks my corrosion short theory out of the running, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 Check this thread for stock resistor values and more info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2614&page=2&pp=20&highlight=resistor+block And this one for a resistor replacment fix: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18580&highlight=resistor Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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