Myxalplyx Posted January 14, 2005 Author Share Posted January 14, 2005 Oh yea, I guess with your Garret BB turbo maybe lag won't be an issue.... what did that thing cost? garner $395 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 ball bearing turbo:slobber: um.... you need to get that installed and let us know how it runs SOON. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avatar382 Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 I was going to order the gaskets needed from subaruparts.com, but their shipping prices are outrageous. $8 to mail 2 gaskets? Ugh. partsamerica.com, which has the same inventory of the advance auto parts stores, has these part numbers which I am sure are the same gaskets, I just want to make sure... Beck/Arnley 0396261 Beck/Arnley 0396297 Do these look right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 I was going to order the gaskets needed from subaruparts.com, but their shipping prices are outrageous. $8 to mail 2 gaskets? Ugh. partsamerica.com, which has the same inventory of the advance auto parts stores, has these part numbers which I am sure are the same gaskets, I just want to make sure... Beck/Arnley 0396261 Beck/Arnley 0396297 Do these look right? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 16, 2005 Author Share Posted January 16, 2005 There's something about the picture below that I wanted to point out. I ran across this dilemma last night while installing the TWE header/uppipe combo. Take a look at the header exhaust port flange. Notice the difference between the TWE header flange (which has 4 holes) and the stock header flange (2 holes). Your stock header comes with two gaskets (one for each exhaust port) that is shaped like the exhaust port. However, it's recommened in the TWE installation guide that you use the two exhaust port nuts to tighten it down as well as two 10mm nuts. So you'll be tightening it down at all 4 holes rather than just using the two stock holes to tighten it down. Whatever you do, do not install the stock gaskets without slightly modifying them. The stock exhaust port gaskets interfere with the other two holes that will be needed to screw in the other two bolts. The stock gasket covers the hole the bolts need to go into about halfway so you'll need to slightly cut the outer edge of both exhaust port gaskets to make the additional two bolts (per exhaust port, 4 total) be able to fit. I'm only using the stock exhaust port nuts to hold the TWE header on but I know I need to do this right. You only want to do this once as I have to go back and uninstall my downpipe, turbo and header again (once again lifting the engine) to get this damn gasket right. I don't want ANY exhaust leaks. If you do this, you only want to do it once. Just a word of warning. *On a side note, one of the driver's side exhaust port studs came out while trying to unscrew the nut attached to it. The threading inside seems like it may have to be retapped. I'll get another stud and see how that goes.* If I have time after work, I'll take a picture so you can see what I mean by how the stock gasket(s) interfere with the intstallation of the 4 additional bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 16, 2005 Share Posted January 16, 2005 I just used the original two and ignored the fact there was two more on the header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 17, 2005 Author Share Posted January 17, 2005 This evening, I went about uninstalling the downpipe, turbo and header/uppipe to do the exhaust gasket again. I previously only used four stock nuts on the exhaust ports but the Techworks installation guide suggests using the four stock nuts and four10mmX1.25mm pitch bolts. Look at this pic! Forgive my nasty finger. It's a mixture of car crap and Titanium Dioxide from my job (I just got off work). Here are the extra two holes in the cylinder head exhaust port I was talking about. One is on top and one is on the bottom. Notice the new OEM stock gasket is covering up these holes halfway. This is what I was mentioning earlier. You'll have to cut the exhaust gasket a bit to gain access to the two additional bolt holes (per exhaust port) so that you'll have a secure connection. So, I'll be going out tomorrow to get 4 of these 10mmX1.25mm pitch (even though I alread have two) bolts. Trust me, I want to get this done quickly but I want to get it done right the first time. Good thing I took everything apart again too. I still had an old exhaust gasket in place on the passenger side exhaust port. Duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted January 17, 2005 Share Posted January 17, 2005 here's a question thats been bugging me, but I kept forgeting about asking it. on the TWE header, why does the right(looking down at it) side go out then curve around and go up to the turbo? is it better for voleciy(sp)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 17, 2005 Share Posted January 17, 2005 its very close to equal, but Tom's the math wiz, and he got the runners to be a certin length so the exhaust pulses dont fight each other and get together just so...something like that Damn, kevin takes a long time to do something that took me 15 mins. :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 17, 2005 Author Share Posted January 17, 2005 Damn, kevin takes a long time to do something that took me 15 mins. :-pThat's because I'm retarded! But retarded strength always wins over. :-p Yeah, the exhaust lengths appear to be pretty much equal. I never measured it out though. Exhaust diameter and heat determines velocity. Exhaust length determines how good it scavenges. That's why you can always read someone saying an equal length header makes more hp/torque than an unequal length header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 17, 2005 Share Posted January 17, 2005 That's because I'm retarded! But retarded strength always wins over. :-p Yeah, the exhaust lengths appear to be pretty much equal. I never measured it out though. Exhaust diameter and heat determines velocity. Exhaust length determines how good it scavenges. That's why you can always read someone saying an equal length header makes more hp/torque than an unequal length header. but TUNED length is always better, and we have that. Tuned meaning the math involved gets the pulses correct so everything flows best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 18, 2005 Author Share Posted January 18, 2005 Hey folks, Well, I'm slowly getting there. I have a few questions I need to ask though. People, if you aren't familiar with your car and various hoses, before taking hoses apart LABEL ALL YOUR HOSES. I felt like a kid at xmas when the kit came in and I know better because I label all my hoses when I do stuff like this. Unfortunately this time I didn't label anything so now I'm stuck. There are 3 hoses coming from those thingamajiggas on the passenger side shock tower. You guys speak of these everytime we talk about fuel cut or what not. Well, 3 of those hoses now have nothing to go to. I have two places to plug them into but I need some assistance. I'm not even sure if I can just leave one off or if it was just off before. ???? Here are the hoses. The 4th hose you see in the pic below is attached to that little 'disc' on the right side of the pic. There's something else I need to take care of. My stock turbo-intercooler piping is 1.75". The turbo's outlet is now 2" so I have to get bigger piping. I'll go about doing this tomorrow. Here's my 2nd problem. The turbo that I have doesn't have a maf sensor to turbo inlet connection like the stock unit. The turbo inlet detaches. What's good about this is that it can be rotated and clamped depending on your setup. What's bad about it is.....I don't have a clamp to keep it together. Can I get a clamp for it at Home Depot or some other hardware store? Last but not least, be aware that you'll need to redo your whole exhaust system. The downpipe does not exit where your stock catalytic converter begins at. I'm going to need to get another cat converter and redo the exhaust piping. I'll probably get another muffler as well. I have something in mind. As for the cat converter, I'm looking for a 2.5" one from Summit racing that isn't too long. I hope I could've given some insight as to the coolant to turbo inlet/outlet and oil to turbo inlet/outlet lines. I don't know how the location of the uppipe and the stock turbo's position affects how these things hookup. I know with the turbo I have, I had to extend all the hoses, get extra clamps and a couple of 'elbows' in the lines for bends. They are done now but just want to bring these things to your attention. I'm wondering how this intake is going to look once it's together. I'll eventually do that over rather than use the stock piece (if I can use it). Looks like the brunt of the work is done for now. Hope things hold together. Signing off......................the unmechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 Since the clamp is needed for the inlet side of the turbo I can't see why a regular SS hose clamp can't be used, it's not under pressure. SS ones are stronger so that's what I use on mine, and for the pipe dia. difference I use adapters from an Auto store, they have any ID-OD adapter you could imagine for exhaust work once you have the combo you want drop $10 at a muffler shop to weld'em [make sure they understand there can't be any leaks] up and you're good to go. Looks like you might have to either move your silicone hose back or chop it cause things'll be tight once an adapter is in. I can't wait till you're done, that bb turbo is the ticket with these larger flow/diameter pipes, I think you'll have some huge gains there. Good luck with the vac/sensor hoses my knowledge is limited to 86's so I can't offer up any oppinion's there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 Kevin, I can take a look at my car tommorrow, to help you out with those hoses, but I can't really think where they go off the top of my head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 18, 2005 Author Share Posted January 18, 2005 Kevin, I can take a look at my car tommorrow, to help you out with those hoses, but I can't really think where they go off the top of my headThanks guys! Any help is appreciated. I'll look the the FSM tomorrow as well. *yawn* I'm out! Oh yeah, btw! I wanted to make a correction to what I said earlier about the header lengths. The header/uppipe combo IS NOT equal length. I had a good look at it earlier today and it was quite obvious. The passenger side is shorter. How much shorter has to be measured. If I get around to it, I'll post up numbers. I need to focus on the other stuff before I forget something (I do that easily). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 19, 2005 Author Share Posted January 19, 2005 Well, I just found out today that the clamp I need to connect the intake piece is a factory only part. I need to stop at a Saab dealership and order it. The part name is 'Clamp HOS' and its part# is 30566014 with some additional numbers that may be 034070. I'll be off to order this part from some local Saab dealership tomorrow. Meanwhile, I need to take my strut brace back apart due to me forgetting to install the O2 sensor. Oops! No biggie! *tomorrow* Last but not least, finished getting those rubber hoses together. Then I can fire it up and hope no oil, coolant or exhaust gas leaks out of the hundred clamps I have now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 20, 2005 Share Posted January 20, 2005 Myx, Get that shiz installed man!! Yer killin' us!!! garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 28, 2005 Author Share Posted January 28, 2005 Myx, Get that shiz installed man!! Yer killin' us!!! garner Sawwy Garner! I tinkered with a ton of rubber hoses earlier today. To my amazement, I cranked the car and it started. While waiting for something to blow, oil started pouring out of the turbo's oil inlet. I shut the car down and retrieved a good bit of kitty litter to stop the flow of oil. I remember worrying about the oil inlet and coolant inlet/outlet lines. I was extra careful to make them nice and snug but not too tight. My questions: 1: What torque am I supposed to apply tothe oil inlet bolt? 2: How many of those metal o-ring gaskets are there supposed to be on the oil inlet bolt? I only have one installed if I remembered right but I'm thinking I'm supposed to have two. 1 between the bolt and the oil feed line and one between the oil feed line and the turbo. Bare with me folks. I've never done anything like this before so I'm just being extra careful. Looks like the car is pretty much done though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 Myx yes, you want one washer on either side of the "banjo" fitting. New ones might be smart... torque=22ftlbs garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 Bare with me folks. I've never done anything like this before so I'm just being extra careful. Looks like the car is pretty much done though. Thanks for keeping us updated as you plug along on it. Who knows, by the time you finish your install I might have enough money to order mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 29, 2005 Author Share Posted January 29, 2005 Hey guys, Well, I tripled/quadrupled check all of my hoses, fittings and such. Had to redo a few vacuum lines, add a gasket to the oil feed line and redo a coolant-turbo line just for extra measure. Started the car up and there were no visible leaks. There was some smoke but it seemed to be from the previous oil leak I had at the turbo inlet. Car revved fine and sounds ok. I don't have a cat converter, midpipe or muffler on it yet. The stock cat and muffler is still attached but separated from the downpipe. Ok....now a couple of things that have been brought up that I'll point out for those that may purchase the kit (or who has already gotten it). It's been said that the turbo is moved up and back a few inches or so. This may cause a problem with the ability for you to close your hood. Notice how high my air filter and maf sensor is. Fortunately for me, someone added a 'vent' on the hood on the passenger side. I'm going to remove this and try to install a WRX bonnet hood scoop there for the air filter. Hopefully, it'll allow the air filter that little bit of extra room so it won't contact the hood. Also, what has been brought up repetitively is the power steering lines. My header comes into contact with it. I noticed smoke coming right where they contact at. There is a piece of cloth material there that was previously there to shield the power steering lines. I'm going to remove it but I want to bend/twist the power steering lines out of the way of the header. This is going to sound cheesy but I must ask. What did/would you guys use to bend these lines? It isn't easy to bend like this. Maybe I haven't tried hard enough. I'm going to get going on that the next time I work on the car. I'm out today to see if I can get a 2.5" cat converter from Autozone or something. That's all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted January 29, 2005 Share Posted January 29, 2005 can you try a thick wrap of header wrap around the ps lines? you know... power steering eats hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 30, 2005 Author Share Posted January 30, 2005 can you try a thick wrap of header wrap around the ps lines? Sure! It's worth a try. I only need a touch of it though. Just enough to get 3 layers or so between the two. It's something to consider. I'm wondering it it'll eat through by vibration after a period of time. Meanwhile, I just got back from shopping with the wife. I did manage to get to an Autozone store to see if they had any 2.5" catalytic converters. To my surprise, they had one and it was EXACTLY what I was looking for. It's a 2.5" unit on both ends, it's about 14" long and it only costs $59.99. The part# for this cat converter is: 38604. If anyone is looking for a cat converter for a TWE install or another install, this one looks like it may be a winner. I'm overjoyed I don't have to get a Random Tech or other. I bet if I sold this for $150 online, I could make a killing. I hope this info helps someone else if they are looking for a cat converter in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 I bent the ps lines by hand and also drilled a hole in the crossmember so I could hold them up and out of the way, header wrap may work but watch out for the motor shifting and damaging them [ps lines] during a dumped clutch or other jolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 i made new lines and routed them differently. but before that, I unbolted them from the 2 locations up front, and pulled the forward and up beside the header...they still lightly touched the header, but I never had any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.