I've seen a number of webers on e-bay and I'm curious(cause I don't know)? is there a certain model# of weber of that fits or does not fit on a subie (85 brat to be particular).They seemed pretty cheap, but I didn't want to buy one that wouldn't fit or hook up properly.

I am actually going to pick up a weber for my 80 GL wagon, and a 86 Brat, and the "correct" one is the DGAV (or is it DGEV) 32/36 its the one with the electric choke (I am actually going to make it manual if I can!)

at least thats the one the majority of subaru users have! good luck!

 

and you will also need an adaptor plate for an ea81

 

Austin

you can make it manual with a kit,pretty easy. you can pay $300 for a kit and most of it will just bolt on, or you can buy one on ebay for a hundred bucks and buy an adapter for like 30 and an aircleaner for 30. and then you make your throttle linkage work, with 20 washers and long bolts. the 32/36 dgav. get a good weber that is new or rebuilt, so you dont inherit somebodys problems, then mash the throttle and have fun:headbang:

whats the 20 washer long bolt senario?? seen a couple of carbs for less than 30 bucks dgav's I believe.

well - technically you want the DGEV - that's the one with the electric choke. However - there seems to be some weird nonsense going on with webers naming convention. The DGAV is supposed to be the one with the water choke I believe, but the one I have (from the EA81 kit sold by weber) says DGAV on it - stamped right into the metal - but it's electric. Just look at the pics on ebay, and find one with the electric choke module. Also - just getting one on ebay isn't enough - it will need to be jetted properly for the engine your putting it on. You can jet it yourself, but you will have to dismantle to carb to do it. Get a book on weber's and that should help.

 

GD

Well put GD, your DGAV (Agua Valve) was no doubt converted to an electric choke model (DGEV Electric Valve) with the kit offered

by Weber (these kits show up on Ebay often).

 

I have converted to a DGEV 32/36 (which is the size in mm of the primary and secondary throttle bores) and my Brat starts and warms up better than with the Hitachi.

 

Arche's comment about the throttle linkage "20 washers and long bolts" is non sense. A simple throttle cable holder can be fabricated out of a piece of flat steel.

This and other concerns are covered by Cameron (who sells a very nice "conversion package" BTW) in this article he wrote.

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm

 

Very good reading if you plan on this conversion.

Hope this helps.

ok man, nonsence huh? my 20 washers works great. instead of making some bracket out of steel, i just move the stock bracket up 1 inch with longer bolts. works great, solid as hell, and just like stock. dont knock it till you try it skip!

like this

HEY!

that 's cheating!

(wish i would have thought of it......)

 

tony, we gotta go yardin or wheelin....

maybe start a midwest hatchpatrol division or something

sorry Arche, I didn't mean to dis your fab, little more explaination would have been kewl though.

Thanks for the pict looks like a nice set, have you thought of replacing the washers with short pipe nipples?

I don't know if this will work on an EA81 engine though, the throttle cable needs offset toward the drivers side.

i see how it could sound very ghetto:-\ .

subuluvr, you have a 4x hatch... wanna trade:brow: just kidding, i gotta have a 2wheel something.

so I'm thinking about putting a weber on my EA71 wagon. What should I get? I'm used to Edelbrock and Holly carbs not Weber....

The 32/36 weber is designed for 1.5L to 2.0L engines so you should be okay. Jetting might need to be modified from the EA 81. archemitis, what did you rig up for the throttle return spring? I like you 20 washers and wonder if you have a similar neat and simple idea for the return spring.

This weber stuff sounds fairly simple but what about all those vacumm lines that are on the stock unit ? looks very confusing:confused:

For the most part, plug them up. Follow cameron's directions as indicated in a previous post and you should be okay.

we have not mentioned dealing with the fuel return set up.

Our pumps do not like to be "dead headed" (pumping against a closed line as is the case when the fuel bowl is full).

I used the Hitachi set up, unscrewed it from the 'tachi, and it threaded right into the Weber.

Some have used after market FPRs (Fuel Pressure Regulator) also,

mine seems fine with out one.

I will suggest that you change your fuel filter (and vapor separator on EA81's) I did not and on a long up hill pull in third, it would starve for fuel near the top. Changed the filters and it was fine. (I had no problem running this hill floored (read WOT)with the

(HiCrappy")

and after you get rid of all the vaccum lines, you can acutally see a motor when you open the hood!

20 washers... that looks like something *I* would do!

Hi, I run a 32/36 on my Ea-71. It worked great right out of the box since it is in the middle of the range that the carb comes jetted for. They are easy to instal and set up. Cameron has all the info including building your own plate, which Redline sells for about 50.00. Buy a new one. There is usually a reason someone is selling a Weber cheap. They are a pretty daunting rebuild unless you are framiliar with 2bl carbs. At least the rebuild works, unlike the tatchi's. They are notorious for throttle shaft wear, which makes them awfuly tough to dial in. It is a good mod if you live in a non smog state. Makes it go like it did with the 13's only with big 14's, no difference in gas use if you keep your foot out of it. Not much if you don't. Make a crossover tube to connect the 2 hoses coming out of the valve cover and the kit has a place underneath the air cleaner to hook it up. Go for it, Bradd