has anyone shot up their old finish with a shot of Krylon? spray painting can look good if done properly. i had just completed a full paint job on a gl-10 wagon and here is some technique!

 

masking. the more you take the time to tape up trim, windows, door handles and anything else not being painted, it will look better. overspray on you unpaintes/just painted will really get at you.

 

take your time: let the paint dry before taking off tape an paper. it sux to smudge you las coat because you wanted to de-mask it ansd see what it looks like!

 

flat/satin finish opaints, also metallic or silvery finish paints:

I have found that you can burnish your freshly laid paint by taking a dry paper towel and rubbing the dry paint dow, this will take up any "dust"that has settled, and will blend in the spray patterns.

on metallic finishes, do the same to "buff" any loose flake that has settled, and then shoot it up with clear coat.

 

fast drying paint will tend to oxidize after a few monthe, but clear coat shpould prevent that.

 

i have found that KRYLON brand holds up the best (after painting some 15 cars or so) krylon black held up through the winter with road salts all over it.

 

when spraying, use a back and forth motion, releasing the spray button between passes. that way the paint doesn glop up on the endsand run. on thicker paints, such as orange, do several light coats to get coverage, instead of thick coats.

otherwise it will look like you got coverage in one pass, then there will be a big sag along the side of the surface.

 

use a scotch brite pad to scuff down old paint and hit it up with primer. you can use cheaper primers, its the quality of the color paint that matters. use steel wool or a paper towel to buff the primer.

 

after painting a section, take a damp rag and wipe off any dust that settled on the next surface to be painted

 

krylon makes a FUSION brand that polymerizes with plastic finishes, would be good for side molding trim and plastic bumpers!

 

who has painted a car and what were your results? pictures?

brush painting?(rustoleum white and satin black on the lower portion of my ride!

Gotta respect the cheap-rump roast paint job! I have an 84 s-10 that used to be an old fire department truck. By the time I got it, it had some white house paint, a red fender, gloopy runs all in it, fire dept. decals that had been painted over, and even wallpaper (don't ask). I took my DA and sanded all of that off, left most of the basecoat, did 0% bodywork to fix the dents, and shot it up with Rustoleum Satin Black oil-based enamel (for lawn furniture). Total $ spent: Forty dollars. It looks a million times better than it ever did, and if I scratch it all up, which is inevitable, it's an $8 can of paint away. I used the quart cans (2), did one coat, sprayed it through my DeVilbiss gun. Highly recomended for anything that bashes through the woods.

Eric

Total $ spent: Forty dollars. It looks a million times better than it ever did. Eric

Those are the magic words, see it does'nt matter to anyone else how it looks, if you like it better the effort was worthwhile. This year I painted my 84 Brat with 115$ of duplicolor spray cans, cost to much but looks good. 79Brat with 4 different colors of white mixed together, thanks neighbor and black undercoating, looks totaly awsume. the Tail end of 90Legacy gloss black, the rest of the car is arctic white, and yes its weird but I love it. SO if you go for it it really does'nt matter, it will look better than befor.

i just flat blacked my wagon with 96cent walmart paint

8DOLLAR PAINTJOB

Hey Miles, check out my Brat. It's ALL spray paint. lotsa people have asked where I go it painted too. It's funny. It'll be spray paint untill I get done with it, (somewhere round 2025 ), then it will get an actualy paint job. I've gone through some autobody courses, including 2 on just paint, so I got a little experience in it.

i paintsd mine up for about 35 bucks. but that is becuse i used good paint. the dollar can approach would be about 15 bucks.

 

stay away from cheap silver paint, the ones in the ribbed can like the ones you find at dollar store(although the wal-mart version costs less) i have found that w-d 40 will dissolve it and wipe it away, wheras wd-40 acts as a polish for better paints

 

yeah, wd-40 especially on flat/satin surfaces, will act like a wax. spray it on, wipe it down, and then rub it in with paper towels. makes water bead up in the rain, too

on glossy surfaces, just wipe it down enough that its not greasy to the touch

 

satin black krylon works good for faded b-pillars between windows, and faded headlight bezels and grilles.

 

adam, i wnt to your site, but the library computer like to freeze, but i noticed that you are the one with the stars on the hood, i have seen pics of it before. i am on the 4th computer in an hour at the library, and if this one freezes too, there are only 2 more!

My costs included sanding discs for my DA, 3M masking tape, a gallon of acetone, and a roll of masking paper. Would have used newspaper, but The Free-Lance Star looks like they have fifth graders proof reading and editing, so I dropped my subsription a year ago.

I don't know how easy this stuff is to come by any more, but Sears used to carry a line of oil based high gloss enamel that came in both spray cans and quarts. I used to paint my old Datsuns with it with decent results. Covered well, and the paint was thick without being too runny. Nice durable glossy finish, that can be buffed out even nicer with compound and wax.

 

The downside was that it dried slowly, especially thinned out (shot thru a paint gun), and had a tendency to get the "orange peel" effect. The long dry time also picked up more contaminants which required more rub-out effort.

 

This stuff is not like Rustoleom. Rustoleum is oil based but does not have the intense gloss or leveling qualities that the old oil enamels had.

 

A similar modern day paint is the farm and implement paints found at farmers supply stores. Some interesting colors too if you like solid (non-metallic) colors.

 

John

Allyboy: I think FleetFarm carries a similar product. Used for painting farm machinery. Stuff hardents to a hard shell surface. Very durable when used correctly. Also has that nice oil enamle gloss finish.

 

I know what you mean with the orange peal effect That happend to my battle wagon when I painted it with a black semigloss enamel. When I came back for the second coat I had waited to long and the second coat didnt "flow" but mearly speckled onto the already sticky base coat

 

Man was I pissed! 100+ hours of sanding and prep work just to paint on a black orange peel! :temper:

the rust-oleum whit i used was all dried up, with a hard "disc) covering the wet parts. i picked out the disc, and stirred everything up. it worked, painted on thick, but brushing technique will get you coverage. i used 2 coats. it was a little chinky, has paint bits sticing to it.

 

but thats ok for me, since the bottom of the car is most prone to rust, salts, it has a nice thick coat. my car is white below the trim molding.

the whole idea of whit is it shows mud the best!

this is why I love you guys. a bunch of seriously cheap bastards: just like me!!!!!

there are better things to spend your loot on, like girlfriends...or something, right?

-Jack

no not girlfriends (at least me) but more and lots of cheap goodies for subarus!. the money you saved on paint can put shag carpet on your ceiling!!!!!!!!!

 

and the girlies will love that, and especially if the back seat folds down!!

right on bro. lift kits are definately a better investment than taking the little lady to go see the new Ben & Jen flick:brow:

Chicks love hoop-t's...They think it's more $$ to spend on them...

 

The farm & fleet stuff is worth looking into, especially if you have access to a compressor and gun. You can paint the car with 2 quarts (and some thinner), under $20 or so. Best of all, you can replace bolt ons when they get bashed. Just paint everything the same color, buff it out etc, and you are good.

 

John

I painted my '87 GL-10 auto with white spray cans of rustoleum that were buy one get one a walmart and had 35% more in the can. Did it in 4 cans total cost under 10$

 

It was a 10/10 paint job 10ft/10mph better then my first attempt on a buick that was a 50/50

if you look in Andrew's Album on the USMB photos site, the blue 84 GL wagon is a rattle-can job. I painted it with this really cheap (1.50 a can) Royal Blue spraypaint, and the bottom part of the doors (below where teh thick black trim was before I removed it) I painted with some rubberized under-coating stuff. It started to oxidize and look like crap after a year or so, but it looked good for a while :-P

What a timely topic ! I'm in between coats on my 208k mile '92 Legacy right now !

 

Just doing the driver's side right now, since I had replaced the door and done a bunch of rust repair. Eventually (before winter), I'll have the whole thing covered with a fresh coat of Ice Blue paint (#280).

 

When all is done, I think it will be around $150 total ordering from Paint World Inc. Then it's mud flaps, Hella lights, kick a** stereo, and LET"S GO SKIING !!

 

 

John Wilke

Milwaukee

I have painted several vehicles in the .99 a can flat black. After a year or so, when it starts looking bad, it's $10 to redo it!

The Eyesore wears my first attempt at camo, using Krylon's ultra flat camo paints. The result was most impressive if I do say so myself.

The ulta rusty brat I got from McBrat will be solid OD green.

 

Another tip: keep about a foot or so away from the surface you are painting. It takes more coats, but prevents runs.

yea, and if you are painting the roof or hood, use your fullest cans, once it gets half empty, use a new can. use your half or low cans to paint vertical surfaces like the doors or sides. that way the spary doesn sputter ot qiut henthe can is tilted.

 

i am curious to see how my job hods up this time. TrashWagon5 seemed to hold up well over the winter. i'll bet thi paint lasts longer.

i had to touch up my last job when existing rust "bled" through the paint.

by now i already know what to expect from different paints. i know the cheap/fast-drystuff will oxidize after a few months.

 

but at least its so cheap it would be considered "maintenance" to re-paint you rride every year, sort of a buff and wax in its own right!