I think your cost estimate is a bit low.

 

is yours this bad.apparently i hit it so bad that i caused a small crack near the plug.(or maybe the gasket just went)

 

it leaks a little when parked after being driven,then stops with in like 20-30 mins.i made sure it wasn't anything else.

 

is it me or did they put some of the bolts for the pan behind that cross member :-\ how difficult is it to replace the pan?

 

yes there on my ea 82 there was 4 bolts behind the cross member. in was a pain in the a** to get them in, not to bad gettin them out. you will most likely have to jack your motor up. i have a cousin thats got a 95 legacy and he had to jack his motor up to get them in. i jacked mine up just so it would be a bit easier.

it would be kind of cool if you took some piping and ran it along side the bottem of the car. that would probably protect your body pretty good.?

I was thinking... I am planning to armor coat the entire bottom of my brat to prevent any rust from building up, this is my plan

 

Then cover the entire under body (except for where all my mounting points are for the suspension) with 2 layers of fiberglass and the bottom layer with aramid aka kevlar. I will use a metal heat shield and high temp epoxy around the engine compartment and exhaust.

 

Finally cover the kevlar with rubberized undercoating.

 

well a buddy of mine did the fiberglass thing to his vw baja, and when he bottomed out the pan he broke the fiberglass and it started to rust there. on my vw i took roofing sealer with fiberglass threads in it and painted my floor boards inside and out. the outside tore a little bit on sharp rocks. i imagine the same would happen to the rubberized undercoating unless it was real tough

. you will most likely have to jack your motor up. i have a cousin thats got a 95 legacy and he had to jack his motor up to get them in. i jacked mine up just so it would be a bit easier.

 

at what point did he jack it up at?

at what point did he jack it up at?

 

im not sure but i could ask him for you.

im not sure but i could ask him for you.

 

unless he jacked up at the pan then put a jack stand to hold engine up.i helped a friend the other day put a tranny in and we jacked the front of the engine up and placed a jack stand to hold it up.(didn't see were he put stand though)

 

any info you could get from your cousin,would help me out.thanks

Subie94,

 

I finally took some pix of the damaged oil pan... Here's one I JUST uploaded to the members photo gallery.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7533&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

 

I'm not quite sure how to post thumbnails in my posts on here just yet, but at the least the link should be clickable.

Subie94,

 

I finally took some pix of the damaged oil pan... Here's one I JUST uploaded to the members photo gallery.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7533&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

 

I'm not quite sure how to post thumbnails in my posts on here just yet, but at the least the link should be clickable.

 

ouch,mine not's that bad

instead of one big dent,its got some here an some there.of course one is near the drain plug causeing it to leak. oh btw take a look at the y-pipe(nice dent huh? one on each pipe)

...and all this time, I thought that's how oil pans were suppose to look!

^ haha... me too. I was looking at that like "wait, what's wrong with this pan?"

 

Some idiot of a previous owner took off my Roo's skidplate... guess I gotta go find one.

Some idiot of a previous owner took off my Roo's skidplate... guess I gotta go find one.

 

at least yours came with one from the dealership(when it was new)i was told that legacys never came with em.took a look,there's places to mount one though.gonna have to make one.

at least yours came with one from the dealership(when it was new)i was told that legacys never came with em.took a look,there's places to mount one though.gonna have to make one.

 

EA series skid plates can be fitted to a '90-94 Legacy with a little modification. If I remember right, I believe I ovalized a couple of the front holes on the skid plate and drilled a couple of holes into the crossmember. I also did some hammering on the skid plate to make it fit. Once mounted it works great for light duty offroading but isn't all that tough if you're planning on ramming big rocks.

Once mounted it works great for light duty offroading but isn't all that tough if you're planning on ramming big rocks.

 

Yeah I bent up mine sliding over big rocks Good to know they can be retrofitted onto the Legacy though.

I was thinking... I am planning to armor coat the entire bottom of my brat to prevent any rust from building up, this is my plan

 

First I want to clean all the underbody rust by cutting out and reweld sheet steel where there is rust.

 

Then cover the entire under body (except for where all my mounting points are for the suspension) with 2 layers of fiberglass and the bottom layer with aramid aka kevlar. I will use a metal heat shield and high temp epoxy around the engine compartment and exhaust.

 

Finally cover the kevlar with rubberized undercoating.

 

This hopefully will prevent ANY RUST from showing its face around my car again. The kevlar is extreamly tollerant to punctures and the epoxy will make a totally airtight seal on the metal.

 

This process has nothing to do with a skid plate for the engine/ diff and such.

 

What do you think? It shouldn't cost more then $200-$250.

 

what do I think, fiberglass is very strong, it doesnt like impacts as it doesnt have much give it will definatly waterproof the underside , the draw back with this is that it will also hold water on top so if any moisture gets through from the top side it will do a good job of holding that moisture against the metal your trying to protect,water runs down hill, also when your driving down the freeway in the rain at 70 mph water seems to get into every crack end crease it can, I dont have a answear for the rust, just try to protect it from moisture, your sheet metal will want to bend and flex were glass will crack and will want to go back, moisture is OK if it has a chance to leave and dry out

Something like this would help.

 

 

This looks AWESOME. My only critique would be that I would have tried to put the bolt heads on the sides to aid in sliding off of obstacles. As it looks now there are 32 teeth to bite into logs and such and impede progress.

Just my .02

 

DB