Phaedras Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 So, I decide to take a last-second turn onto the on-ramp across 2 lanes and WHAM I hit a curb at about 40mph. Hardy as my Subie is, it survived and let me keep driving. However, now, my wheel is almost buried into my fender. The strut rod or stabilizier bar is bent to hell. I have to turn the wheel almost halfway to the other side to even drive straight. Does anyone know if a 87+ GL or DL has the same suspension parts as my Loyale? I have a local PAP that I might be able to tap. Here are some pics of the damage: I'm pretty sure I can replace the bent rod without special tools (can I?) but I don't know about that ball joint on the control arm. I think the joint itself is fine, but the boot is clearly busted. What should I do about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Holy bent suspension Batman! At least you were honest in saying you did it at about 40mph.. cause if you said you did that in the WalMart parking lot I'd have to call you on it seeing the carnage. Yes, you can replace the leading rod (yes, thats its official name) without special tools. Nothing crazy will happen when you unbolt it. Just drop it out, and pop a freshie in. As I recall, 14mm for the two bolts up front, and 19mm (i think?) in for the backside. Get new bushings if yours are worn out.. and while you're at it, replace em on the other side too. As fer the balljoint, just go on and replace it. Better safe than sorry, right? Cheap insurance. Also, since you bent the leading rod, I'd bet $1 that you bent the control arm (or its mounting point) as well. You'll know if you did right away...when the leading rod wont quite bolt up to the control arm. It should be readily apparent. I'd have another control arm handy from a PAP that allows returns. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 Ack, what if the mounting point for the control arm and/or "leading rod" is bent? Just try to hammer it back into position again? Also, to take the control arm off I also need to pop out a balljoint or two and some bushings. Is this possible with a good set of hand tools? I've heard control arm bushings and joints need a special compressor to be shoved into place. Yeah, I'm just worried I may have fsked up some stuff to the extent that even once I get an alignment after all this it still wont be quite right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 The leading rod's attachment point should be fine. I believe it would either be that lower control arm itself, or the two "flanges" that drop from the unibody where it bolts on would be slightly out of shape. If its the flanges, and the control arm is straight, yes you can try hammering it back straight again.. it just has to be good enough to let the two bolts from the leading rod bolt up. If the control arm is bent, replace it and try again. Take it to an alignment shop afterwards for a checkup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Yeah, I'm just worried I may have fsked up some stuff to the extent that even once I get an alignment after all this it still wont be quite right... Actually, thats a very good possibility.. Best case scenario, just a bent leading rod.. replace and forget. Alignment OK. Worst case scenario, bent control arm, bent control arm mounts, and fscked up leading rod attachment point. Replace offending parts and forget. Alignment slightly off, but a good shop should make it tolerable if not fix it completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 replace anything that is bent. do not try to bend it back with a hammer. Those are critical parts of the front suspension. the stabilizer arm needs to be replaced, possibly the control arm itself because I think its gonna be a lil twisted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 replace anything that is bent. do not try to bend it back with a hammer. Those are critical parts of the front suspension.I wholeheartedly agree. I thought I made it clear in my original answer though.. if I didnt, I'll rephrase: only if the flanges where the control arm (if straight) is bolted to are bent, is a hammer acceptable. The flanges are part of the unibody, and will need to be bent back into form to allow the leading rod to bolt back to the control arm. A couple mild blows on the control arm will straighten them (the flanges) right out. If the control arm is bent, replace with a new one, do not try to straighten it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 man that's bad! but first why did you turn so soon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 You guys are awesome. I have a feeling this has happened to you in the past as well I'll let you how things turn out. It's off to the junkyard for me tomorrow. I still can hardly believe that with that kind of impact my car is actually still driveable. Subarus rule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I would replace the whole control arm as a unit with the leading rod and leading rod bushing bracket thingy from a parts car. Unbolt the balljoint, the crossmember mount, and take out the 3 bolts holding the bracket for the leading rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 It hasnt happened to me, but I have had to fix it. My 93 Accord.. previous owner was DUI, so the county decided to take it away. Single car accident.. off curb into ditch on the passenger side. Passenger control arm was bent back, so far that the tyre rubbed on the innder fenderwell. The funny thing is the leading rod remained intact.. the control arm folded on the outboard side of the leading rod's attachment point. In the process of replacing the control arm (which was a bitsh btw), I got pissed and beat the crap out of the old control arm, which bent the mouning flanges. The bent flanges made it another bitsh to get the arm bolted up.. and even more of a bitsh to get the leading rod attached... since the flanges were bent, the control arm wasnt pointing the right direction, making for leading rod bolt up an impossibility. Thats when the Ford Wrench comes into play (read: BFH). A couple mild whacks, flanges straight, leading rod bolts up, and I'm on my way to the alignment shop. Did I mention it was a bitsh to replace those parts on the Honda? Alignment shop managed to get it about 90% right.. its got the slightest pull off to the right when you let go of the wheel, but its completely tolerable and safe to drive. Thats my story. :cool: I believe yours could fall into the above.. nothing permanent, easily fixed.. but at the worst, 90% and tolerable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 man that's bad! but first why did you turn so soon? Good question. I don't know, it was like "do I need to turn here? yes...no...maybe...holycrapYES!" and I whipped the wheel all the way to the right and I believe I must have skidded a slight bit. If my tires had had a bit more traction I probably would have made it, but sadly I have 3 different brands of tires with 2 different tread wears, so that wasnt going to happen I also fully expected my CV to blow, but it doesnt make any noises. There's just the scraping noise coming from the tire hitting the fender in turns Oh yeah, and the best thing? Once I had stopped on the side of the on ramp I realized I didn't even have enough change to use the toll road anyway so I could've saved myself all this trouble in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 Alright, I got the rod out easy enough, but now that I want to put it in, lo and behold, the holes don't line up. The control arm is tilted slightly and I believe it may have knocked the mount a bit off. PLUS the balljoint on the lower side is tilted as well, which is why the boot tore. It might just drop back into place once everything else is straight. FRIGG, it sucks because the control arm mount looks like it's attached to the crossmember...and that'll be annoying as hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyrider Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Alright, I got the rod out easy enough, but now that I want to put it in, lo and behold, the holes don't line up. The control arm is tilted slightly and I believe it may have knocked the mount a bit off. PLUS the balljoint on the lower side is tilted as well, which is why the boot tore. It might just drop back into place once everything else is straight. FRIGG, it sucks because the control arm mount looks like it's attached to the crossmember...and that'll be annoying as hell. Man those curbs can tear it up is there any damage to the wheel at all? DId you hook it up to the car first or the control arm? Looks like you got to replace the control arm its not hard. I doubt you bent the mount at least the pictures dont make it look like you did, but you won't know without a straight control arm. You should get a ball joint too while you have it off cause it sucks to pull all that stuff again once you find the ball joint is crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 Man those curbs can tear it up is there any damage to the wheel at all? You know, the wheel/tire seem to be fine. There's an spot about an inch long where the outer lip is bent slightly, but now, 48 hours later, I still have all the air left in the tire. Oh yeah, and D'OH I of course attached the rod to the mounting point before I attached or tried to attach it to the control arm. Doing it your way I might be able to use the rod as leverage to bend the arm upwards and then just force the rod into the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 Yay! All is fixed now. Had to replace leading rod, control arm and swaybar-to-control arm mount brackets. Donors were two late 80s GL and DL with around twice the mileage of mine Took me about 6 hours or so trying to figure out how to reattach everything (and figure out what else was bent). But now she drives straight again. Thanks for all the help. Your were right about the control arm taking some of the force as well. However, I was unable to switch out the ball joint. How the HELL do you get that thing out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Wow..bentness. It looks like stuff bent enough for the halfshaft to hit that body flange. That takes skill. Glad to hear its all back together. I'd get that wheel balanced just in case, I'd guess it's bent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 I'd get that wheel balanced just in case, I'd guess it's bent. Dude, I have so many things lined up for when I have a decent cash flow again...I need to finish cleaning up and polishing my Pug wheels, and then I need to get tires for 'em which is expensive because nobody EVER has 195/50/15 on sale. Yeah, then comes balancing and aligning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Tire rack. Kumhos or Sumitumos are good cheap, good tires. Get H or S rated tires. V and Z rated tires wear out fast if you have an aggressive driving style on the street. The front outside shoulders will be gone with factory sways on a Subaru in no time flat. Rotate at the first sign of wear. Swap inside for out when all outside edges are evenly worn. No excuses. Save money for it. your tires will last twice as long. With the damage you've done I bet the steering wheel is off center while going straight down the road. Get an alignment now. The bigger wheels and tires will make you push harder because they will stick better. Try to find a rear swaybar from an RX or XT6 to flatten out the corners. Or get a heavier spring for the back with a heavier damped shock. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Bolt your bent up leading rod back to the bent up control arm. Stick it in the back of the wagon as a trophy. Hehe..whoever buys my Honda is going to look in the trunk and see my bent up arm and be like WTF?! I wanna see whatcha did first hand next time all 3 of us Florida subie owners wanna meet up. Hopefully my junk will be back together by then. psbtw: in the PAPs that you frequent down there, have you run across any EA81s? Up here in Tallahassee theres basic EA82s and Loyales out the behind..not a single EA81. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 However, I was unable to switch out the ball joint. How the HELL do you get that thing out? Is it stuck in the arm or the strut (I assume the strut because you changed the arm)? If is stuck in the strut, remove the clamp bolt and wedge a short fat straight blabe screwdriver (or other wedge, brake adjusting tool or such) in the slit to spread the strut. You will need something to pry down the arm, I use a 6-foot pry bar across the top of the arm and under the leading rod mount, this is much easier with the sway bar disconnected (I never unhook it). Wacking strut near the BJ with a hammer can help too. If its stuck in the arm, you can put the nut on to protect the threads and give it a whack or two with a hammer. But in the end a picklefork will probably be the required tool (and will destroy the rubber boot). Dont mess with used ball joints, new ones are cheap and after you picklefork out the used one you'll need a new boot anyway. Final note: Anti-seize is your friend, apply liberally to both ends of the ball joint (and hit the wheel lugs and other bolts while you're there). Gary P.S. Leading or trailing arm? Datsun (FHI) use to call them tension/compression rods... seems an accurate description. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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