First of all I would like to thank all of you who assisted in helping install my distributor.....very greatful.

 

The hesitation happens usually only when the engine is cold/slightly warm. From idle I press on the gas and the RPMs immediately drop almost to the point of stalling if I am not careful. The only time it happens when the engine is warm is when I slow down to take a 90 degree turn....sometimes stalling. Note that this happened proir to the installation of a new disty. Assuming that there is no vacuum leak (which I believe there isn't) what could be the cause????? Its a 84 wagon gl 4x4 auto.

 

Thanks.................

Hey, I'm glad that I'm not the only one with this problem. Mine does it just like yours when the engine is cold. When it warms up all of the way it stops and runs great. I went the route of fuel, air, and electrical. Canged Fuel filters, air filter, plugs, cables, even added some H20 remover from the gas, all nothing. No change, still does it. So I'm at the same place as you. Sorry if my reply wasn't much help. Let me know if you hear of any thing. I'll keep you posted as well.

 

-cmiller

 

'92 Loyale

 

 

 

First of all I would like to thank all of you who assisted in helping install my distributor.....very greatful.

 

The hesitation happens usually only when the engine is cold/slightly warm. From idle I press on the gas and the RPMs immediately drop almost to the point of stalling if I am not careful. The only time it happens when the engine is warm is when I slow down to take a 90 degree turn....sometimes stalling. Note that this happened proir to the installation of a new disty. Assuming that there is no vacuum leak (which I believe there isn't) what could be the cause????? Its a 84 wagon gl 4x4 auto.

 

Thanks.................

First of all, what kinda engine is it,. Carby, EFI (SPFI/MPFI) or Turbo

 

My first suggestion is if its temp related..

If its Carb'd, it could be the choke

If its fuel injected, could be a temp sensor

 

Other than that always replace ur fuel filter first

 

Cheers

 

Gannon

Its an EA81 Carb

 

Thanks..........

hey your not the only ones with this problem, I just bought an 83 Wagon, EA-81, D/R manual, When I first start it it has massive oil pressure, the choke kicks in and it runs about 2 grand then shuts down to idle, when I try and rev it or take off it almost stalls. I hAVE CHECKED all vacuum hoses/lines, though I found a weird, don't know what it is that runs into my carb which splits into 3 or 4 other lines. when I go to rev it up it kind a grinds or rattles, then as the idle comes down it quits, any suggestions I would greatly apprecite it, I am always tinkereing on my subarus, so if I find anything new I'll post it.

 

83 Wagon D/R 166k

84 Hatch D/R 144k lift +tires soon, brush guard, lights!

86 Wagon AT 142k, parked :-\

I haven't owned a carbed Subie before, does the carb have an idle air control solenoid motor thing attached to the throttle linkage? IAC? If so, maybe it's sticking?? I have "fixed" the electronic ones before just by soaking the inside of it with STP silicone spray.

 

-Chuck-

Things to check are the vacuum advance unit. The diaphrams go bad. Then the EGR valve. Same issue, bad diaphrams. Then the vacuum leaks need to be repaired, if present. Sometimes the adjustment screw has already been accessed by taking the small block rod out. Can be removed with the carb on but can be a pain to do so.

 

Most of these stumbling issues are related to timing and fuel mixture. Make small adjustments to timing after the other items have been repaired or proven good. You'll find to spot that the car runs best at.

The timing has been tuned and I checked the EGR diaphram and its good. The disty is brand new so the vac advance is good. One thing I noticed which may be related, is that when I have the AC on, the RPMs drop which fine; however, it threatens to stall when I'm at a stop or making a turn. I also notice that when it threatens to stall with the AC on, the voltage has dropped to the red, but returns to normal when I press the gas. I have a brand new Alt installed too and I believe the battery is good. Is there some voltage regulator that could be causing this??? Or do I need to adjust the idle up a little??? Or someting else??

 

Thanks...........

Ok....I'm having trouble starting the car in the morning, almost to the point where I consider trying to jump start it. Once it starts, after about 6 attemps, it barely catches and stumbles quite a bit. After about one minute and pressing the gas, all is fine expect a subtle hesitation when I go from a stop to acceleration. Alt is new, disty new and timed, carb new and set. And it doesn't seem like the starters bad as it seems to send plenty of spark, it just has trouble "catching". Once the car is warm it will start fine. I'm definitely going to get new plugs to see if that helps.......what do you guys recommend in regards to plugs? Thanks....

I would only use NGK's for plugs.

 

You may want to check the fusible links for a connection problem. I would also check the wiring at the battery and the charge line between the alternator and the battery. There may be a bad connection somewhere. You may also want to check for some bad ground connections by using a jumper wire to tie between suspected areas. I have heard of problems like this being solved by fixing bad ground connections.

Thanks.......now how does that work using the jumper cables to test the connections??? :-\

By using a jumper you will bypass a bad connection, if there is one, and things should work like they normally do then. It's just a quick way of testing for a bad connection.

So where would I connect the cables. For example, to test the line between the Alt and the battery, where would I actually connect the cables?? Thanks for your help..........

I was only suggesting the jumpers at various ground points. Like between the engine block and the negative battery post.

 

For the alternator output connection it is best to measure the voltage between the output connection and the positive battery post with a load on the system, like the lights and blower on. If the connection is good then the voltage drop should be less than .1 or .2 volts.

Should I use a voltage meter? Sorry for being so trivial....I'm trying to learn as much as possible!

 

Thanks again.......

Yes, a voltmeter is what you want to measure with.