Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

99 Subaru Legacy Wagon:

 

Drivers side window wont go up or down sometimes. Can get it to move by changing window position of passenger side window (weird).

 

Can hear a few clicks in the window unit (without touching window switch )when the problem is occuring.

 

Any thoughts!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, let's try narrowing down where the gremlin is hiding. When you say "changing the position of the passenger side window" are you changing it from the driver's side control? Is the effect the same if you use the passenger side controller? If it is just from the driver's controller, is the effect the same if you "change" the position of the rear windows?

99 Subaru Legacy Wagon:

 

Drivers side window wont go up or down sometimes. Can get it to move by changing window position of passenger side window (weird).

 

Can hear a few clicks in the window unit (without touching window switch )when the problem is occuring.

 

Any thoughts!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took a closer look at the problem yesterday. Sometimes when the drivers side window is fully open i can hear a clicking sound, and see the window move up and down very slightly. When it does this, I cannot make the window go up on the first pushing up of the switch. Usually the second or third push of the switch will make the window go up. Furthermore, pushing the passenger side window up (from the driver side switch) will then allow the drivers side window to go up. I think the real issue is why the window wont go up on first push and why the clicking when the window is all the way open (not all the time though)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It stands to reason that the driver's side window is open more and dirt and rain etc. might gum up the switch panel. Warning!!! See if there is a contact spray cleaner that might do the trick before and if unsuccessful, then after you've removed the door panel. I might disconnect the power but I'm not sure it's necessary. Despite warnings I received, when I opened the switch to clean the contact, there were all these tiny pieces, springs and ball bearing that I proceeded to lose in a gravel driveway. I eventually recovered them all and all was well, but don't follow in my wayward footsteps! If you decide to open the switch, work in a safe area.

no havent opened up the door panel yet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will open door panel for inspection, stay tuned. We are having a wicked heat wave here so Ive been delaying the job.

 

Replace the driver's door window master control assembly. The clicking noise you're hearing is the circuit breaker that's built into the MOTOR clicking on and off because the switch contacts are stuck. The circuit breaker is cycling on and off to prevent the window motor from burning up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, now Ive finally figured out when the problem occurs. The problem only occurs when I put the window down in Auto Mode. If I open the window all the wat in regular mode it closes with no problem. So something is going wrong with the auto mode.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I experienced exactly the same problem with my 99 Legacy SW. The dealer replaced the switch, to no avail.

 

I had a run-in with a snowbank this past winter, and the drivers door had to be replaced. :(

 

I haven't had any problems with the PW since then. I think they used my old door panels, but the motor unit may have come with the door (it was recycled).

 

I don't recommend that as your solution though. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, now Ive finally figured out when the problem occurs. The problem only occurs when I put the window down in Auto Mode. If I open the window all the wat in regular mode it closes with no problem. So something is going wrong with the auto mode.

 

Yes, that's correct. The "express down" feature won't shut off when the window reaches the bottom of its travel. It's supposed to sense the sudden "bind" of the motor pulling more amperage when the glass stops, and instantly shut off. When it doesn't cut the power to the motor, the circuit breaker in the motor takes over, just as if someone were to deliberately hold the switch in the "down" position. Unfortunately, the auto "express down" feature is built into the master control, requiring replacement of the master control assembly. If it's any consolation, most vehicles share this design; this problem isn't unique to Subaru.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my Town & Country van is having this same problem.

 

Well, besides our '98 Outback Limited and our '99 Legacy GT, we have a 2000 Caravan ES (same van as your T&C). The window master control was replaced under warranty because it wouldn't "click off" by itself when the driver's door glass reached the bottom of its travel. Dealer told me "yeah, we're having a problem with those switches....."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Mwatt. I have a '02 model year. The problem is intermittant and I need to find out what the dealer will do on this, as I still have a warranty. I need to see if they will just replace the module even though it works most of the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whats the cheapest way to get a replace for the master control?

 

Consider ordering it from 1stsubaruparts.com

I've ordered a bunch of stuff from them (they're actually a Subaru dealer with a website) and have always been pleased. Great service and, even with the cost of shipping added in, the prices are still much more reasonable than at most dealers. The website can be a little clunky to navigate thru, but there's a toll-free number listed so you can order from a real human, if desired.

 

By the way, installation of the master control is quite easy on a '99. The door trim panel pops off relatively easily and, as I recall, the master control is attached to the panel (but I can't remember if it's held with screws or if it "clips" into position)....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Camry is doing the same thing!!! :banghead:

 

I know the motor is not shutting off when it's all the way down.

 

I can hear it.

 

What I have been doing is using the "manual lower" not the "auto lower"

and then stopping the window just before the bottom.

That way, I know the motor is off and not trying to hit the sensor and shut off-- Which is apparently messed up.

 

Good luck,

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Camry is doing the same thing!!! :banghead:

 

I know the motor is not shutting off when it's all the way down.

 

I can hear it.

 

What I have been doing is using the "manual lower" not the "auto lower"

and then stopping the window just before the bottom.

That way, I know the motor is off and not trying to hit the sensor and shut off-- Which is apparently messed up.

 

Good luck,

Glenn

 

I've figured it out. Subaru, Chrysler, and Toyota are purchasing window master control switches from Kia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the possibility of a regulator gear tooth problem. Have seen it many times on many different vehicles. The last tooth or 2 get worn down. When the gears on the motor get to those teeth that are worn, the motor doesn't catch and it just keeps running since there is no bind to tell it to shut down. If this is the case here, the tooth will be worn only on one side since the window is still able to come back up. When you say you hear "clicking", if it is inside the door, this is probably the case.

 

Here is a pic of the regulator and what the teeth on the regulator should look like.

http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepages/quote.jsp?year=1997&product=O3040-58932&application=000324642&part=Window%20Regulator&category=All

With the panel off, you will need to flashlight and to find viewable access to see these teeth on the regulator to check them.

 

The switch still sounds like the culprit, but check the teeth before you spend money just to be sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the possibility of a regulator gear tooth problem. Have seen it many times on many different vehicles. The last tooth or 2 get worn down. When the gears on the motor get to those teeth that are worn, the motor doesn't catch and it just keeps running since there is no bind to tell it to shut down. If this is the case here, the tooth will be worn only on one side since the window is still able to come back up. When you say you hear "clicking", if it is inside the door, this is probably the case.

 

Here is a pic of the regulator and what the teeth on the regulator should look like.

http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepages/quote.jsp?year=1997&product=O3040-58932&application=000324642&part=Window%20Regulator&category=All

With the panel off, you will need to flashlight and to find viewable access to see these teeth on the regulator to check them.

 

The switch still sounds like the culprit, but check the teeth before you spend money just to be sure.

 

The motor does not keep running--the problem is that power is still being applied to the motor when it shouldn't be. When the glass reaches the bottom of its travel, the master control is supposed to sense the sudden hi amp draw from the motor when it jams at the bottom of the window travel and then "click off". That's how most "express down" window systems are designed. If one were to deliberately grab the glass and jam it in the middle of its auto down-travel, the switch should also "click off" then, too. The clicking that people hear when the switch is stuck in the "down" position is the periodic off/on cycling of the circuit breaker that's built into the window motor trying to protect the motor. It's also important to note that the problem never occurs if the left front window switch is pressed down gently to lower the glass "manually" (even down to that last tooth on the regulator). It only occurs when the switch is pressed firmly to actuate the "express down" feature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Bringing back the two year old thread: My 99 Outback is doing this same thing now. There's no clicking involved, but if I auto down the drivers window all the way down, it will move up and down maybe an 1/8 of an inch repeatedly until I can get it to go up a bit with the switch, which usually takes about three tries. Did anybody involved in this thread earlier correct the problem by replacing the master control module? Another question, has anyone just defeated the auto down feature? My wife hates it, and if there was ever a time to defeat it, this would seem like the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...