oldblue2 Posted August 20, 2005 Share Posted August 20, 2005 My ECS is on, and I have been having problems passing emissions here in seattle (over by only 56 on HC count at idle!) I think it might have something to do with the O2 sensor. But I would like to find out for sure. I have been searching the forum for any instructions but have only been able to find stuff saying how to do it on newer cars (mine's an 85) I have one red 8 pin plug under the panel by the fuse box, one white 8 pin connector, and one 6 pin red connector (all female) There are two green matching 1 pin connectors (male/female) one black male connector, on the engine side of the firewall on the drivers side there is one pink connector, one white/yellowish connector, and one green connector, all female. The white/yellowish connector is 7 pins, and the pink one is 4 pin, the green one is 1 pin like the one on the inside. So I have no idea which ones to connect how in order for it to read stored codes. It's throwing 11 in U-mode. But I know another code comes on after the car has been driven for perhaps more than 15 minutes. Any input is appreciated! thanks! Also any advice on sliding by emissions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted August 20, 2005 Share Posted August 20, 2005 If the car passes emissions otherwise... put black tape over the check engine lights... (all of em!) its worth a try A former co-worker of my wife's had some chrome tape over ALL her idiot lights when she bought her car... I pointed that out to her when I was adjusting the clutch... sure enough... the car had a check engine light on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldblue2 Posted August 20, 2005 Author Share Posted August 20, 2005 No that isn't it, in fact as long as I restart the car right before I go in, the light will be off for the test, so I haven't had a problem with that. It's just that I need to get my hydrocarbons down when it's at idle. The idle is all over the place though, sometimes it's up to 2500 (which i think is 1500 since the tach is all over the place as well, it jumps a grand sometimes while on the freeway and then back down) Sometimes it will idle real low. And when it is low, like 600 rpm, it will run really rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldblue2 Posted August 21, 2005 Author Share Posted August 21, 2005 Anybody? I really need to fix this problem by the end of the month to pass emissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldblue2 Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Anybody please??? I only have 9 more days to fix this issue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 have you followed this guide? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html I haven't seen any carb'ed cars personally yet, but I would assume that there would be a set of white/black single pole connectors probably under the hood. Connect them, and the LED on the ECU should blink the stored codes. I could be wrong though since I've never had to work on a carb'ed car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 just re register outside of king county using some funky address.. .thats what I do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelwagon Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Hey you might wanna check your vacuum hoses, sounds like that might be it. Thats what mine was doing and i found a couple unconnected hoses and now its idling real nice. I failed my test yesterday too for too much HC and CO here in Spokane. HC means unburned fuel, vacuum leaks or lean air fuel mixture. CO means partially burned fuel or too much fuel.... I've been trying to get my codes too, I have an 85 EA82 too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldblue2 Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 So far I have already gone through and tried finding all the vacuum leaks... to no avail. I think it may only be running on 3 cylinders though, not sure why which is why I wanted to read the codes. I still have no been able to find any matching plugs other than the two green ones behind the dash. Like I said my HC were only 36 over. So almost good enough to pass. If I could only make a little adjustment and get it down a little more, then I think I would be ok and pass fine. All my other levels were great, especially when "driving" I only had problems when idling. Could a bad 02 sensor cause these problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelwagon Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 Hey have you passed your emissions? Have you been able to read codes? I have the same prob now, my ECS light is on and I connected the 2 green things under the dash but its not showing any codes, only the 7 and 3 which means its a 4x4 Cali car. I had my car checked at an emissions specialist place and found what was causing my surging and sputtering and loosing power while driving, and also what was causing high HC's on my emissons. it was a hose in the back of the carb, i unplugged it and plugged the lines and wow what a difference. It actually has power now and smooth too. And the HC's were really low. I'll take a pic of the hose today, maybe its the same problem with yours too. I also unplugged my EGR too. It wasnt opening anyways unless i plugged it to a different vacuum line and then it would be open ALL the time. Anyways I just hope it runs ok now. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 Hey have you passed your emissions? Have you been able to read codes? I have the same prob now, my ECS light is on and I connected the 2 green things under the dash but its not showing any codes, only the 7 and 3 which means its a 4x4 Cali car. are you sure that's not 73, code for 'Ignition Pulse System' ? (I have no idea what this means, it just shows up in the ECU guide) IIRC, I thought the car ID flashes were all short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelwagon Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 Hm in the Haynes Manual it just says that 7 long and 3 short just shows what the car is, 85 4x4 Cali. Maybe its just the default it shows on each car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 I did a simple search (reading codes) and I came up with this. Check engine light demystified Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelwagon Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 Ughgh I only have green connectors under the dash and 2 red and one white, no black or brown. Are the black or brown ones supposed to be next to the green ones? Man this is frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 well... theres no real reason to read codes on a carb motor. the "computer" wont tell you anyting of use. its either ignition timing, burnt rings, leaky valve seals... or most likely culprit. a worn out carb. when the carbs wear out they run rich and put too much fuel into the system. and the computer doesnt know about any of that stuff. you can cheat tho. run some of that "guaranteed to pass emissions stuff" or if you ad an oxygenate to the gas, like one gallon of ethanol, to 5 gallons of fuel. if you can try it more than once, id try the ethanol. worked on an 88 hyundai excel with the same prob. also, make sure the cars hot, make sure you have the correct thermostat. if the motors cooler than it should be, emissions go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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