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First Axle change completed

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Well, I completed my first axle change. Took a while, with only minor snags. You should have seen the cv boots. There was maybe 1/10 of the out boot still connected. The inner boot looked like those construction paper lanterns we all used to make in first grade, but with really large openings! Still got my core charge back though. All in all, things went pretty good thanks to the tips gathered from this board. Thanks to everyone who's posted info on this topic.

 

The biggest problem I had was getting the axle pin back in. I had the 3/16" drift punch (the one with the round dot on the end ...Which I highly recommend) but I actually started to drive it into the pin. So I got a 1/4" (flat) puch but I couldn't keep it centered. So I went up to the next size (3/8" I think) and still had problems keeping it centered, plus it just didn't seem like it was driving in. I rotated the stub axle (?) coming out of the tranny and I think that was it. Still very tough to drive the pin in though, but I finally got in with the big puch and a 4lb. sledge!

I am beat...good night!

Jason

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cool! they only get faster, the more of them you do :P

 

when I put the pin back in, I tap it in directly with my hammer until the hammer won't clear the axle or trans, then I turn the punch around and tap on the narrow end, holding the fat end against the pin. "works every time"..

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I'm not sure what you were working on, but on nonturbo EA82's you can get to the pins from the top. I pulled a trans yesterday and tapped them both out from the top, no problems at all. MUCH easier than getting it from underneath.

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I'm gonna need to do two axles soon... my fronts (FWD) are goin out, they'll die, but I don't know when. All I need is a week, maybe two. Right now it's just a shimmy and some clicking in cold weather when you come to a stop and make a turn. (either way, both axles are sayin bye-bye.)

 

Many people have told me that it's easier to go to a JY and grab some axles that look really good, repack and boot them and slap them in.

 

Personally, I use the hose clamps (radiator, example) to hold the boots on. sure, they cost about $1.50 a piece, so you need 8 for both axles total, but hey, it's a hell of a lot easier than those stupid things they give you with the boots... and I haven't had any clearance issues yet.

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If U go to an exaust shop, they will have "hose clamps" in the right dia. to fit the CV so U only have to use 1 on each end of the boot.

As for the roll pins........:temper: I just use cotter pins, they work great, even when U trash a CV they still hold on, and come out 5X eazer than the roll pins. No punch needed!

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My boots were in much worse shape. There was literally nothing left of the outer boot. The inner boot had 4 or 5 strips still connected that were maybe 1/2" wide with big gaps in between the strips.

 

I see you have that hose missing that connects the exhaust to the intake. Did yours disappear or was it intentional? What purpose does it serve?

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The exhaust hose was gone when I bought the car. I've never actually seen one intact on a subaru.

 

Its just a hose from the exhuast to the intake... takes the hot exhaust air and heats up the intake air so your car warms up faster.

 

As for lowering job... I'm not sure if you're making fun of me for the torn boot or something else. The car is stock. That picture is from up above while it was parked on my gravel driveway.

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Syphon -- my bad :-\ From this vantage point it looked like it was sittin' on the hubs in the gravel. Might have been the photograph..... or it was probably just me.

 

My outer CV boots looked like that once. I imagine the inner ones can cover the engine compartment pretty good after they're done slinging grease around. Not a pretty sight.

 

-- Mark

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