I've always heard a grind going into reverse; but about a month ago all at once, I could not get into or out of any gear without trouble. I let is set for two weeks and drove it to town with no problems. After the car got hot, it became increasingly harder to change. Now after two days of driving it's almost impossible. When I press the clutch and start the car, it takes off even thought I'm pressing the clutch. The clutch is brand new.

 

Will a tranny oil change help?

 

Could my flywheel be sticking?

 

Do I need anew tranny? (please say no).

 

Why would it work fine after two weeks if the tranny was bad?

 

Please help.

 

CAMOBRAT

forgive my ignorance on this model, is this a hydraulic or a cable operated cluthc. Sounds like a slave or master cyl going out on a hydraulic clutch. If a cable operated clutch, is the cable hosed ? In any case, have a friend push on the clutch pedal while you watch the fork-bet you see little or no movement.

 

 

Let us know what you find

Might want to check the fluid in the diff. Its on the passenger side behind the bell housing, a short dipstick.

just for kicks you could check the clutch cable it could have stretched and broke

also what turbone said first check fluid

 

 

i feel smart ignore me sry stupidity strikes me

later

I've always heard a grind going into reverse; but about a month ago all at once, I could not get into or out of any gear without trouble. I let is set for two weeks and drove it to town with no problems. After the car got hot, it became increasingly harder to change. Now after two days of driving it's almost impossible. When I press the clutch and start the car, it takes off even thought I'm pressing the clutch. The clutch is brand new.

 

Will a tranny oil change help?

 

Could my flywheel be sticking?

 

Do I need anew tranny? (please say no).

 

Why would it work fine after two weeks if the tranny was bad?

 

Please help.

 

CAMOBRAT

 

Mine used to do the same thing, but I have a 85 brat with 84 spec drivetrain... How "new" is your clutch, and are you sure if it is brand new you got the right one, I went 4 places and through 3 clutch kits before I found the right one, did a full fluid changeout (make sure you get the right fluid as they are now making limited slip compliant and non-compliant fluid) I used the non-compliant and for 5000 miles at 200 per day I have been fine... I have heard horror stories about using LSD fluid in NON-LSD equiped cars and non-LSD fluid in LSD cars, usualy resulting in damage, also what condition is your shifter linkage in? I re-built mine when I did the clutch and the fluid and have been changing gears like silk since...

 

I know I seem like I am rambling but I wanted to chip in my .02 or so...

Sounds sort of like my old '82 wagon. If the clutch cable is out of adjustment, it won't fully disengage the clutch. Mine had to be readjusted every month or so (when you couldn't get into reverse or 1st without grinding, and when you started it in gear it would lurch, even with your foot all the way down on the clutch...). A new clutch cable might be an easy fix to try.

Sounds sort of like my old '82 wagon. If the clutch cable is out of adjustment, it won't fully disengage the clutch. Mine had to be readjusted every month or so (when you couldn't get into reverse or 1st without grinding, and when you started it in gear it would lurch, even with your foot all the way down on the clutch...). A new clutch cable might be an easy fix to try.

 

That is the trouble that i was having on my 84 GL hatchback, when i pushed on the clutch it felt like i was pushing on a cinder block, did the clutch cable swap tonight and now it feels like pushing into a pillow, maybe you should try it. The only thing that I didnt like is if you look at the current cable it has to bend and weeve to make the trip through the firewall to the clutch so when u get a new one dont expect it just to come off like the old one.

All clutch components are completely new. I was having the clutch pedal problem where I couldn't even push it to the floor. It's still tight, but working better now; but I still have all the gear change problems.

 

Someone wrote about rebuilding the linkage. How could I go about doing that?

 

Any other ideas?

 

CAMOBRAT

Try readjusting the cable. If this doesnt work the clutch might have been installed incorrectly. Was it done by a shop or by you? Its possible to install the clutch disc backwards and it will not shift worth a %#^%$ if so.

All clutch components are completely new. I was having the clutch pedal problem where I couldn't even push it to the floor. It's still tight, but working better now; but I still have all the gear change problems.

 

Someone wrote about rebuilding the linkage. How could I go about doing that?

 

Any other ideas?

 

CAMOBRAT

 

Here is a thread on it...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38359&highlight=sloppy+shifter

 

Hope it helps, Have you checked the clutch cable yet?? And what about that fluid...should be new too as it should be changed when the clutch is done...New fluid will help the sincros spin better as they are hydraulically driven by the tranny fluid...

Have you tried adjusting the clutch cable linkage? I realize that everything is brand new, so I was just thinking that it might not be in the right adjustment. When I did my clutch swap, I had to re-adjust my clutch linkage because I had to disconnect the cable from the clutch fork.

Things to check;

 

Free-play, you should be able to push the clutch pedal

"by hand" roughly 7/8" before you feel any real resistance to movement.

 

Kinda hard to do, but visually inspect the clutch cable housing for any sign of splitting. Would help to have someone push on pedal while you do this. I have seen cable housing break, when they do cable will push housing apart and not move the piece it is intended to move.

 

On the "everything is new", did you replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel? I have had instances of the wrong pilot bearing in the clutch kit before. Not on a Subaru, but it could happen. If ID of bearing was to small, it would still spin the tranny's input shaft as if the clutch had not been pushed.

 

Proper routing of clutch cable is way important here also. Looks like it's wrong, but cable should go under steering shaft after it exists the firewall. Not sure if that would hinder the release of the clutch, but it sure does make the pedal stiff if it's routed wrong.

 

Just my .02..........

If ID of bearing was to small, it would still spin the tranny's input shaft as if the clutch had not been pushed.

 

Tom, I dont think this is possible. If the shaft didnt go into the pilot bearing, the tranny would not mate up to the bellhousing.

 

I would remove the cable from the clutch fork and check the movement of the cable, it needs to move freely in and out.