fud24682000 Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 1988 DL 4WD wagon. This is the vehicle I had bought for my daughter about a year ago when her '87 GL developed TOD and we feared the worst. However I fixed the '87 and kept this for myself. I was about to sell the '88 (have no need for 4WD where I live) when I found it had lost a pint of oil in about 20 miles-- I knew it was leaking and was watching it, was taking no long trips. With the the front up on ramps, I see a fast drip coming from front of driver side valve cover with engine idling. Wiping the area, I see the oil appears to be coming from the cam seal area, unless it's running down from higher up on the valve cover where I can't see it. I suspect the leak must get a lot worse when it's revved up more. Can I pin this down better without pulling the timing belt covers? I'm not up to tearing into it beyond trying to do valve cover gaskets, and will sell it as is if it's the cam seal or something else other than the valve cover gasket. Thanks, Ray Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Much more likely to be a cam seal than the valve cover, cam seal are the number one leak on the EA82s from my experience. It can be very hard to tell but every one I've had with a leak coming down between the front of the head/valve cover and the back of the timming cover ended up being the cam seals. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 From your description, I can't tell if you're certain it isn't coming from the front of the engine. The oil pump would be a likely candidate for the leak; either the shaft seal fails or the shaft itself gets 'unround', or the micky mouse gasket dies. It's really tough to pinpoint this leak with the timing belt covers on, and it tends to weep all over front of the engine and come out where you'd least expect it. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud24682000 Posted October 9, 2005 Author Share Posted October 9, 2005 Thanks-- With the front end raised on the ramps I see the drip at the front lower valve cover, so I'm pretty sure it has to be in the front. As I watch I can see the oil travel down slightly ahead of the valve cover, then it runs onto and drips off the cover where cover meets the head. If the cam seal is the most likely leak in this location, that makes sense. Before the leak got this bad I was going along adding oil when it needed it, but now I can't take that chance since it suddenly got very bad. Ray Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud24682000 Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 For an interesting update on this topic: I got a repair estimate today from a mechanic who supposedly is a good one. To do crank and cam seals and replace belts and water pump is $655, without water pump is $563.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 For an interesting update on this topic: I got a repair estimate today from a mechanic who supposedly is a good one. To do crank and cam seals and replace belts and water pump is $655, without water pump is $563.. Hmm, lets see... $50 for timing belts, maybe $30 for seals, he should do the rocker gaskets while he's doing it and they cost $20, water pump is like $50.... $150 for parts (did that estimate include timing belt tensioners?) leaves $500 for labor. At maybe 5 hours to do the whole job, that's not too far off from what most places would charge. Even though that's not a horrible estimate,I'd still say do it yourself and save $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
555Ron Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 I'm always amazed at the labour rates in America. In Australia my mechanic will charge me $45 an hour (Aus$ - say $35 American) and at this rate i do the work myself. We are currently having trouble getting people to take up trades, i bet if they could charge that much they wouldn't. My 20 cents is fix it yourself, its a weekends work and $100 worth of parts. Taking the timing covers and belts off is no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud24682000 Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 Thanks to both of you. Snowman, did you mean the valve cover gaskets? They should also be done, but the estimate did not include them. 555Ron, you've given me the courage to give it a try myself. I hope I have the proper tools. I wish shipping to Australia for cheaper rates was feasible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 wish you were closer, i'd do your cam seals for 100 bucks, add in whatever else you wanted...timing belts..... EA82's are EASY to work on dude and parts are cheap. i'm so used to the XT6, the EA82's are easier and the XT6 isn't really that bad....(once you get used to it). i can do timing belts in my XT6 in like 45 minutes. Add another 30 for cam seals and done. i'm with everyone else, do it yourself, it's not that bad and with this board you can be well prepared and get help along the way. dont' drive it for long at ALL. starving of oil on that side and possibly the rest of the motor if you loose enough is not a good thing. and replace the o-rings under the cam caps as well, not just the seals. it's only a few more minutes and three 10mm bolts. http://www.thepartsbin.com sells the cam seal kit, includes the seal and the o-ring both. good luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud24682000 Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 thanks grossgary. I shut it down when I saw how bad the leak had become. The estimate did at least include the O-rings. Am looking at my Haynes book now, trying to see how hard it is to get the timing covers off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobmater Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 subaru's leak oil! mine leaks around the cam seal. i need to get it re sealed pretty soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Hasn't been mentioned sofar, but I would put a new front crank seal in while you're in there. Just be fore-warned that the crank seal should sit flush to slightly recessed to the bore it goes into. Neither the Haynes or the Chiltons mention this. If you seat the cramk seal in to far, you will block an oil passage. That would be a bad thing. I wasted a new seal 'cause I set it in to far, (found that info here), had to remove it and get another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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