Easy Spark Plug Change?

[mdryan]

Howdy,

Does anyone know an easy way to change spark plugs on 1998 Forester w/ 2.5 motor?

It sure was a bear with ratchet and 3" extension.

Thanks

 

Mark

[Snowman]

It's easy to change the spark plugs if you pull the engine out:drunk: .

 

 

Ratchet and 3" extension is pretty much standard procedure, and it sucks big time. I've been told that lots of newer American cars, especially minivans, are much worse than these.

[Smpol19]

Its a lot eaesier the 2ed time, first time took me about an hour. Now I can do it in 20 mins. Really not bad compared to a lot of newer cars, first time with a Dodge Caravan took me alsmot 2 hours.

[Subie Gal]

ahahaa

try changing them on a wrx.....

 

first time i went to do em i said: "um.... where are they????"

 

yeah.. buried!!

 

 

Jamie

[NOMAD327]

I used a mix of the following: a socket with 3" extension, a normal socket placed on top of the upper hex on the spark plug socket and a swivel held straight as a shorter than 3" extension. If you need a slightly longer reach, do not fully insert the square drive in the socket. I would pull the sponge rubber out of the spark plug socket or you will have a hell of a time removing it once the plug is tightened in place. There was one plug where a standard deep socket was a slightly different length and fit better than the spark plug socket did. There are two tricks that help pretty much, the first is to start the new plug in the hole and thread it the first few turns by putting a rubber vacuum hose about 3" long on top of it and twirling it in with your fingers. This ensures it is started straight, and is much faster than a ratchet for as tight as it can go. The second trick is that the socket has to be put into the well first, then the extension, and finally connect the ratchet. They have to be assembled in place, especially on the two rear plugs. I would do the front plugs first as they are easier and get you up to speed a it easier. Gap check the new plugs and apply never-sieze to the threads, double check the washer is in place before starting it in the hole.

[pamonster]

I just did this, it was not fun. I ended up putting the socket in, then the extension, then the ratchet. Still took probibly 45 minutes. I also had to remove the battery.

[JohnVT]

I just did this, it was not fun. I ended up putting the socket in, then the extension, then the ratchet. Still took probibly 45 minutes. I also had to remove the battery.

 

It's easier to reach if you remove the battery and the air intake on the other side... (at least it's there on the outback)

I have a spark plug socket with a flex joint built on to it that my father-in-law found somewhere. That, and the extension can slide around the corner (with a little patience), and then the ratchet fits on the end with almost no clearance. It has gotten a little easier with practice!!

[Setright]

Yep, practice makes perfect on this one.

 

I have begun to ALWAYS remove the battery and loosen the windscreen washer tank. The time you spend removing these is much shorter than the time spent trying get the plugs out and in with the battery in place.

[a97obw]

On the Legacys I'll remove the battery, the windsheild washer tank and the airbox cover. The suggestion of using a piece of rubber hose, I use a piece of fuel tubing, is the only way to fly to get the plugs started. What might surprise you guys, is that in my opinion anyway, the BEST spark plug tool you could ever want to do the job.......is right there in your Subaru tool kit! There is no chance it will get hung up on the sidewalls of the cylinder head, you can use the tire tool if you like to turn it, or better yet just a socket on a ratchet to turn it. Give it a try next time!

If the plug wire boots are anything like the 97 2.5 engines, if you can get those off you are 90% done. They can be a bear. I finally found that if you push down on the boot just a bit then pull they come out much easier. Good luck!

[subie94]

just never cross-thread the plugs!!!!

 

(i speak from experience) cross-threaded,didn't fix,got bad enough that spark plug blown out while driving to a doctors appt.

:banghead:

[deiscient]

I've been told that lots of newer American cars, especially minivans, are much worse than these.

You don't know the half of it. Just replaced the plugs on my Mazda MPV. That has a Ford Contour's 2.5L V6 in an engine compartment designed for an I-4 (for ROW markets). You need an 8" extension...and it is almost impossible to line up the socket-extension to fit inside the plug recesses! On top of that, you need to remove the coil pack to get at the rear bank of plugs where you cannot see what you are doing at all.

 

Good thing double plats are called for (60Kmi life) as I am not looking forward to doing that again for a long time.

[mdryan]

Thanks for the response.

I'm gonna try my Subaru supplied tool.

 

A few other pointers;

1. Warm motor before unscrewing plugs, the heat expands the alloy head so the threads won't gall.

2. I always use anti-sieze on the sparkplug threads for reinstall. Locktite now offers anti-sieze in a glue stick typr push up sleeve - less messy.

 

Mark

[vic/se]

on a legacy, I feel quite comfortable doing it.........I use a 1/8 extension. try it

[mattocs]

It took about 20 minutes to do in my EJ22. Pull out the washer fluid tank and get a 6 inch extention and it is as easy as can be

[deiscient]

It took about 20 minutes to do in my EJ22. Pull out the washer fluid tank and get a 6 inch extention and it is as easy as can be

In my case I pulled out the oil filler tube. That left plenty of room to swing the ratchet using a 3". And, yes, I too was done in about 1/2 an hour.

 

World of difference between my Legacy and the wife's mini-van. OTOH, her EmPeeVee has a timing chain instead of a belt (no replacing, YESSS!!) and the water pump is located right on top of the engine. I suppose that kinda makes up for the spark plug situation...

[avk]

World of difference between my Legacy and the wife's mini-van. OTOH, her EmPeeVee has a timing chain instead of a belt (no replacing, YESSS!!) and the water pump is located right on top of the engine. I suppose that kinda makes up for the spark plug situation...

So you like that Ford's Duratec? I haven't been near one myself.

[swc7916]

... first time with a Dodge Caravan took me alsmot 2 hours.

 

I can commiserate: On my '90 Chevy AstroVan I found that the easiest way to access the right-side plugs was though the wheelwell - you have to jack up the car and remove the wheel and get to them.

[westarz]

Howdy,

Does anyone know an easy way to change spark plugs on 1998 Forester w/ 2.5 motor?

It sure was a bear with ratchet and 3" extension.

Thanks

 

Mark

 

Try adding a swivel knuckle joint between the socket and extension. Use electrical tape to secure it to the socket and extension. On my 92 Legacy I could change plugs without taking any other parts off.On right side you can reach underneath to guide the socket into the plug hole.

[NOMAD327]

I had a Ford duratec 2.5 in a 2000 cougar. I really liked the car and the engine. The one trick I know on them is a lot of those engines come with a plastic impeller on the water pump. It will sometimes come off the shaft and rapid and extreme overheating will then occur. If I owned one that was getting up in miles, I would replace the water pump with an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller.

[jchretie]

I have a 2001 Outback 2.5 liter with 90,000; I bought the car at 45,000. I was driving around town the other day and the check engine light came on. Brought it in and was told I had a cylinder #3 misfire and I needed a new ignition coil, 4 spark plugs and new wires. I told the mechanic I was going to going to attempt to do the work myself and save me some money. I have never done this before, and am going through the old threads looking for advice. I am going to buy an OEM ignition coil and wires, as many posts have convinced me that I should, but does the brand of plug make a difference? And what other advice would you give me? Would you recommend I consult a Chilton's guide before doing this?

[mdryan]

Nippon Denso are the best but some times hard to find.

Their electrode alloy contains tungsten and they seem to hold their gap longer than other brands.

MDR

 

I have a 2001 Outback 2.5 liter with 90,000; I bought the car at 45,000. I was driving around town the other day and the check engine light came on. Brought it in and was told I had a cylinder #3 misfire and I needed a new ignition coil, 4 spark plugs and new wires. I told the mechanic I was going to going to attempt to do the work myself and save me some money. I have never done this before, and am going through the old threads looking for advice. I am going to buy an OEM ignition coil and wires, as many posts have convinced me that I should, but does the brand of plug make a difference? And what other advice would you give me? Would you recommend I consult a Chilton's guide before doing this?

[Setright]

I prefer NGK and so does my EJ20. My EJ22 didn't care if I fed it Bosch or NGK.

 

My EJ20 doesn't like Denso or Bosch.

[Snowman]

My general rule when it comes to spark plugs is to use a brand that comes from the same geographic region as the vehicle (which is usually what the manufacturer recommends). The engineers used those plugs when designing the engine, so it will generally run best if you stick with them.

 

Japanese cars=NGK

American cars=Autolite

European cars=Bosch

 

Oh, and of course Champion plugs are absolute garbage.

[vic/se]

My general rule when it comes to spark plugs is to use a brand that comes from the same geographic region as the vehicle (which is usually what the manufacturer recommends). The engineers used those plugs when designing the engine, so it will generally run best if you stick with them.

 

Japanese cars=NGK

American cars=Autolite

European cars=Bosch

 

Oh, and of course Champion plugs are absolute garbage.

 

 

I had champions on from the factory....I guess because they built on Pa