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vic/se

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Everything posted by vic/se

  1. Can you get a new panel? A well done job would be to weld new sheet metal, but takes some skill
  2. yes, I it hapen to me under extremely cold temp 2 or 3 times when the car was quite new. Nothing was ever done to solve the problem and I never got it afterwords
  3. Before the plug change it was fine, even with 110 000 miles it runs fine with lots of power. and it run fine for 3 days after changing the plugs and I replace the ignition wires with NGK's
  4. Oil light goes off right after starting. I will drain the oil and have new 5/30 on it
  5. I had that problem too, but it was doing it too when you're coasting, and it does'not do it now that's why I rule out the shields and I have very few left
  6. I recheck the spark plugs and they all have a brownish color ....I do feel a very slight power loss. If I rev up engine up to 3000 or 4000 rpm it just sounds fine or when I release the gas on gear it sounds ok or on idle it's also ok. I will check timing belt like you say oil looks fine but I will change it soon
  7. Outback 03 2.5l 5sp I replaced ignition wires and plugs last week, and I get this rattling noise since 3 days
  8. thank you all for your help I was suspicious that an electronic device would do so much.
  9. Not eBay! I saw these add GForce I guess where it braggs about 60hp and 3-5 mpg economy.... Those 60 hp would be more then welcome. I have the 2.5 l on a outback 5sp. and the engine runs quite well it cuts off at around 6500rpm
  10. Anyone here tried these and what results have you obtained? please
  11. I used to have a legacy.My legacy was totaled in Arizona ....I have an outback now......so far it drives ok, but not like the legacy and engine light come on, I don't know what it can be?
  12. You sould open that bleeder bolt, to bring piston back, and then slide new brake pads. clean everything well don't over grease and don't grease everywhere....if you don't understand my point just look at a new car, and take you own conclusion good luck on you brake job
  13. I agree....I go up to 3 and somtimes 4 min. but when it's -20 or -25 up here it's no joke even the seat seems hard the first few minutes you seated on
  14. you're wright lightweight flywheel is meant for racing ...and I don't see any benefits on street driving.
  15. I'm running 205/60/16 it's about 3% taller than 55 series (original size) and I think it even feels better om bumpy roads
  16. One weak place is rear wheel where rear bumper joins .....dirt collects in there. I don't know if it's easy to remove that rear bumper and clean up all and repaint everything. I think by doing that it could add a good 8years to the life of your sub even on snow belt areas... like here!
  17. You can try at costco . i bought a 3 ton at costco for less then a $100 if i can recall
  18. I use those on my sub the G-power. the only advantage I see, you can keep them longer, they will go 50k miles at least
  19. The diesel engine seems to be reliable, and the savings on gas are on the 40% range. I would love to have one with a 6 speed manual. Maybe we should write to soa and ask them to make the diesel avaible here???
  20. what size garage are you building? I have a good size garage but can't help you about costs since it was built more then 10 years ago
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