January 24, 200620 yr I've created this thread so you can post links to all the commonly brought up topics for the new gen Subarus, while not having millions of stickies cluttering the top of the forum. For the time being I will leave the thread unlocked and allow users to post threads they feel are commonly brought up issues. When posting, please ONLY post the link to the thread, and keep discusion regarding an item in that thread. Also, please use the following format when posting Note: Replace paranthesis with brackets. (url=http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/somethread)Description of thread(/url) If the thread becomes cluttered with extraneous threads or chatter I will close the thread, and you'll have to pm one of the mods to add a thread. Enjoy! Josh
January 25, 200620 yr One of the more extensive threads on replacing the tiny bulbs that burn out in the late 90's Subarus. Replacing climate control and switch bulbs Commuter
January 25, 200620 yr This little strip of metal which is above the license plate and backs the latch and license plate lights is prone to rust. Replacement is fairly easy. There are other ideas inside about different paints and treatments for this bracket. Replacing rusty hatch latch bracket Commuter
January 25, 200620 yr Allow me to introduce you to the "Subaru Virgin" switch. There is a rocker switch on the top of the steering column. It is labeled with a P and some dashes indicating lighting. This switch turns on the parking lights even if the ignition is off, headlights are off, etc. This is a code/regulation requirement in other countries. What usually happens, is that the unsuspecting owner will bump this switch while cleaning the dash. Don't feel bad, it's happened to many. Commuter
January 26, 200620 yr IMHO, these are the most recurrent issues, HG and torque binds; recent examples here: 99 Subaru Blown Head Gasket 2000 OBW Head Gasket Leak 93 Legacy & Torque Bind
January 27, 200620 yr Author The Manual Button found on the 1990-1994 Legacies What does the manual button do?
February 4, 200620 yr This question comes up a lot. The post by ferret in the following thread sums it up quite nicely (at least for North American 4 cyl engines). Thanks ferret. Is my engine interference, or non-interference? There are other posts that go deeper, ie whether pistons hit valves, or valves hit each other, or both. I don't have a link for that, but if someone knows of one, msg me and I'll add it to this post. Commuter
February 26, 200620 yr Is there a problem with posting non-USMB stuff? Ranger83 just posted this link regarding Subaru wheels and tires that I think should be here: Tires & Wheels FAQ
March 2, 200620 yr Author How to read the ECU codes for OBD1 Legacies & Imprezas How to read the TCU codes for OBD1 Legacies & Imprezas
May 11, 200619 yr Some ideas inside. Ideas to quiet noisy heat shields More ideas to quiet noisy heat shields Commuter
May 20, 200619 yr There are so many timing belt threads that searching is not effective. This is one thread that seems to cover the subject pretty well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2455 This post covers about 98% of everthing said in all of the timing belt threads combined. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=19460&postcount=37
May 31, 200619 yr That dang rattle! I have had several Subys and have found a long term solution. 2 Outbacks with a total of 60K miles on the repairs. The nail and screw thing gets points for simplicity, but... I had my muffler guy pry off the shields (the tabs are easily broken). He then wrapped performance exhaust tape (1" wide) under where the shields go and then replaced (re crimped) the shields and further secured them with (very tight) stainless zip ties (for exhaust systems). 15' of exhaust tape $18. 12 Stainless Zip Ties $24. Labor $55. The exhaust tape smells like burnt paint (bad!) the first few drives. When I drive by a concrete wall I think the car is now slightly, but noticably quieter than new. The heat shields do serve some purposes... 1. They keep heat in the exhaust line which is theoretically more effecient (as a gas cools it contracts which flows more slowly which is less effecient if the system was originally designed around a particular exhaust velocity). 2. The catalytic converter relies (critically) on heat to function properly which is signifigantly preserved by the shields. 3. The signifigant escaped heat raises the underhood temp by maybe 10 or 20 (just a guess) at low speed which effects effeciency (heat dissapation is more effecient). Ok, "So far so what?" you ask. True these effects are probably negligible until the cooler and less effeciently catalytically converted gas reaches the inline exhaust sensor, which tells the computer to adjust the fuel mixture and other parameters and suddenly you have an engine with a potential quirk. 4. The shields help reduce in cabin noise (untill they rattle). 5. The shields help reduce the likelyhood of a dry grass fire.
June 17, 200619 yr I'm a steel fabricator and we use K-Wool over a weld so that it cools down slower. You can put a 1" piece of this stuff in front of a blowtorch and your hand on the other and not feel a thing. Perhaps something like that stuffed into the heat shield would be a good solution, my only concern may be that the pipe itself would get TOO hot! It would definitely lengthen the time the vehicle takes to cool off.
July 23, 200619 yr Frameless windows... they have their pros and cons. One of the cons is leaks leading to wind noise. This thread discusses some simple solutions to fixing the problem. Good luck. (It just recently worked for me on a 97 OB.) Commuter
December 29, 200619 yr Allow me to introduce you to the "Subaru Virgin" switch. There is a rocker switch on the top of the steering column. It is labeled with a P and some dashes indicating lighting. This switch turns on the parking lights even if the ignition is off, headlights are off, etc. This is a code/regulation requirement in other countries. What usually happens, is that the unsuspecting owner will bump this switch while cleaning the dash. Don't feel bad, it's happened to many. Commuter HAHA this happened to me last night in a blizzard, and I thought there was a short. So I'm out there in 2 feet of snow, and more coming down, in the dark, with the hood open, found the correct fuse and pulled it. I logged on here to find out what to do and this is the simple solution! Seems like there's always an easier answer eh? While I am extremely glad this isn't a short, I am wondering why is that switch there? What's the purpose of that? I think I hit it thinking it was the hazzard lights. Yes, I'm a subaru virgin, just bought the car last week, but it got me home in about a foot of snow on the road. I plowed my way home last night! My Saturn wouldn't have made it 10 feet in that. Love my Subaru! Jewl
January 2, 200719 yr Author Scooby Mods Good resource for modifications. It seems to refer more to 2003 plus and does cover older, but since these are giant lego sets on wheels, i found alot of information does apply to pre 2003. Thanks to Nipper for mentioning it. Updated link to Scooby Mods.
January 10, 200719 yr Found here are my tips, notes, and a link to 64 or so high resolution pictures that I took detailing my head gasket replacement on a 2000 Forester. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69717 Here is a sample pic: Good luck with your project!!!!!! Dennis
February 19, 200719 yr Which engine models blow head gaskets? compilation on Head Gasket failure modes by model/year Also added links to useful information: - description of other common issues - where to buy rebuilt engines - maintenance schedule - endWrench mag timing belt replacement how-to I think a FAQ entry on torque bind and piston slap is needed too.
January 18, 200818 yr There's a slew of threads about this issue; below are some of the meatier ones. The vibration related to this issue only occurs in gear (put it in Neutral, it goes away). Unfortunately, not enough people return to let us know what worked to fix it or not fix it (hint to new people). A common thread appears to be that non-Subaru axles (half-shafts) are not good replacements. It's not clear why the non-Sub axles generate a vibration, but it happens often enough to defy coincidence. Other ideas are proposed and in some cases things other than half-shaft replacements have fixed it. Another 1998 Outback idle shudder 1998 Outback vibrates when stopped in Drive 2000 Outback wagon shudders at idle after half-shaft replacement 2000 Outback vibrates when stopped at idle 1999 Outback idling at low speed after axle replacement 1995 Legacy wagon vibrates when idling in drive or reverse 2003 Outback vibrates in idle when stopped 1998 Outback idle vibration - considering replacing motor mounts 1997 Legacy Outback - same problem...
July 14, 200817 yr Rod Knock: some good information, but I'd recommend pulling the connector from the fuel injector rather than shorting the ignition: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486
August 13, 200916 yr how to info on timing belts, several good articles with pictures. save yourself some work and read these first. timingbelt how to. NEVER USE THE ARROWS!!! articles on timing belts and other good info (thanks ob99w) Edited August 13, 200916 yr by johnceggleston
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