Ok went to change my waterpump out and found out what a hassle it truly is. I don't have the right sized socket for the big pully thats towards the center. Left of the actualy water pump. I have to get that thing off just to get the timing chain cover's off to access the last 2 bolts on the waterpump. And i can't figure out what size it is. If anyone knows it would be greatly appreciated. I've used a 19mm (my biggest) and it is to small! I've tried to buy a manual but can't find one. Thanks in advance.

i think it's 22mm...but it could be 21...memory is failing.

have a long pipe to put over the handle to help break it loose, it'll be very tight if it hasn't been off in awhile. use pipe to reinstall, make sure it's TIGHT when you're done or it'll come off while running and that aint good.

i think it's 22mm...but it could be 21...memory is failing.

have a long pipe to put over the handle to help break it loose, it'll be very tight if it hasn't been off in awhile. use pipe to reinstall, make sure it's TIGHT when you're done or it'll come off while running and that aint good.

 

 

 

Does it run inside the motor so it won't turn when i try to loosen it? or will i need to hold it when i try to budge it loose?

that's the crank pulley, the motor will turn with it. knock the end of the ratchet with a hammer (pseudo-impact style) and sometimes they come loose that way.

 

otherwise peg the flexplate in the back if it's an auto trans or put it in gear with the brakes on if it's a manual trans.

 

the quick and dirty method that others are scared of is to hang the socket on the pulley, make sure it has something solid to rest against (motor mount is easy on the XT6, but EA82's don't have a front one i think)...and bump the starter really quick (don't start the car...unplug the coil so it won't start). hang the socket, unplug coil wire plug, bump starter and yo'ure done in 7 seconds.

that's the crank pulley, the motor will turn with it. knock the end of the ratchet with a hammer (pseudo-impact style) and sometimes they come loose that way.

 

otherwise peg the flexplate in the back if it's an auto trans or put it in gear with the brakes on if it's a manual trans.

 

the quick and dirty method that others are scared of is to hang the socket on the pulley, make sure it has something solid to rest against (motor mount is easy on the XT6, but EA82's don't have a front one i think)...and bump the starter really quick (don't start the car...unplug the coil so it won't start). hang the socket, unplug coil wire plug, bump starter and yo'ure done in 7 seconds.

 

 

 

Sweet thanks alot Gary.... off i go!!

A normal sized 1/2" breaker bar will rest against the radiator support on the drivers side with the radiator out - make sure it's AGAINST the support before turning the key. It's only scary the first couple times you do it.... and that one time I threw a breaker bar into the neighbors yard

 

GD

A normal sized 1/2" breaker bar will rest against the radiator support on the drivers side with the radiator out - make sure it's AGAINST the support before turning the key. It's only scary the first couple times you do it.... and that one time I threw a breaker bar into the neighbors yard

 

GD

 

 

Haha ya'll serious? I thought all you Subaru fans where built! Lets see if i can break this baby..... on my way home now..... i won't even use a breaker bar!

7/8 socket will also work on that bolt.

-Brian

7/8 socket will also work on that bolt.

-Brian

 

 

Ahhh..... Didn't know that... see Junkie i'm learning so much in the first week of owning a broken subaru! wee!!!

Ok... i Hooked everything bakc up and tomorrow everything should be good. except for the crankshaft pully! what is the best way to tighten it up? i got my belts and everything assembled i figured it would be easier with more tension? Just curious if i'm going to have problems tomorrow or not....

Ok... i Hooked everything bakc up and tomorrow everything should be good. except for the crankshaft pully! what is the best way to tighten it up? i got my belts and everything assembled i figured it would be easier with more tension? Just curious if i'm going to have problems tomorrow or not....

 

 

No reply? Oh i'm so sad... what will i ever do! Anyone heard of warm beach? up by everett or something..... Can you drive on it? Apparently i'm going camping there and have no idea what it's like

To tighten the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to keep the engine from turning. (You have to get it TIGHT). An easy way to do it is to remove a spark plug and run about 10 ft of an 11 ft rope down in the cylinder. This will hold the engine without harming anything. When you tighten the bolt, the engine will turn a little until the rope keeps it from moving further, then it's locked.

 

Then tighten the heck out of the pully bolt, remove the rope, replace the plug, and you're ready to go.

To tighten the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to keep the engine from turning. (You have to get it TIGHT). An easy way to do it is to remove a spark plug and run about 10 ft of rope down in the cylinder. This will hold the engine without harming anything. When you tighten the bolt, the engine will turn a little until the rope keeps it from moving further, then it's locked.

 

Then tighten the heck out of the pully bolt, remove the rope, replace the plug, and you're ready to go.

 

 

 

Really? How would i get the rope back out? Can anyone verify that? heh

Really? How would i get the rope back out? Can anyone verify that? heh

Easy - you pull the head.

Easy - you pull the head.

HAH HAH HAH! That's mean dude! You're supposed to keep enough of the rope sticking out so you can pull it out.

 

To tighten the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to keep the engine from turning. (You have to get it TIGHT). An easy way to do it is to remove a spark plug and run about 10 ft of an 11 ft rope down in the cylinder. This will hold the engine without harming anything. When you tighten the bolt, the engine will turn a little until the rope keeps it from moving further, then it's locked.

 

Then tighten the heck out of the pully bolt, remove the rope, replace the plug, and you're ready to go.

 

Maybe do it at Top dead center? So you don't bend an exhaust valve?

Maybe do it at Top dead center? So you don't bend an exhaust valve?

Not just TDC, but when that cylinder is in its compression stroke.

 

I'd still prefer jamming something into like the flex plate or flywheel to hold it still.

Not just TDC, but when that cylinder is in its compression stroke.

 

I'd still prefer jamming something into like the flex plate or flywheel to hold it still.

 

 

 

OK PROBLEM!!! I changed everything out and after 5 days of messing with this car. It still breaks out of the seal on the waterpump?! Only when the car is off though. Not when it's running... could there be backpressure from running it? should i let it idle for a minute before shutting it off? I'm VERY confused here....

Did you put in a new water pump or did you try replacing the gasket and putting the old one back on?

 

You need a new one and a new gasket. If it leaks its probably cuz you didnt get the right gasket on or you didnt get all of the old one off.

No reply? Oh i'm so sad... what will i ever do! Anyone heard of warm beach? up by everett or something..... Can you drive on it? Apparently i'm going camping there and have no idea what it's like

 

Warm Beach up by Stanwood, at the NW corner of Snoco. Was up there once, ain't warm at all (but that was in winter). Proly hot there now. Never saw the beach though.

It still breaks out of the seal on the waterpump?!

are you saying the water pump is leaking?

 

some brand new water pumps will seep slightly the first time you run the engine. it will seal up after that.

 

otherwise you need a new pump and gasket like shawn said.

are you saying the water pump is leaking?

 

some brand new water pumps will seep slightly the first time you run the engine. it will seal up after that.

 

otherwise you need a new pump and gasket like shawn said.

 

 

Yeah i put a brand new waterpump and seal and put that waterpump sealant on both sides of the gasket to ensure this wouldn't happen. I took it for another ride and when i stopped i let it run for a minute before shutting it off. turned it on right after for about 5 seconds and turned it off and it still leaked. Not nearly as much as it did before but i looked like it's just seeping out of the top of the gasket right below the A/c compressor. When i installed the radiator i just threw on a 13pound cap that fit. Would that have anything to do with it?

Did you replace the O-ring on the pipe or reuse the old one? As a mech I've have 3 different subs come in with leaking new waterpumps and all it was is they use the old O-ring.

Did you replace the O-ring on the pipe or reuse the old one? As a mech I've have 3 different subs come in with leaking new waterpumps and all it was is they use the old O-ring.

 

 

 

Used a brand new one... i'm going to recheck all the bolts because it seams very odd it would do that. Why wouldn't it leak while its running?

Yes check your bolts also check the other small hose going in I always change that while I'm in there. The reason it probably leaks after shutdown is that is when you build the most preasure.

Yes check your bolts also check the other small hose going in I always change that while I'm in there. The reason it probably leaks after shutdown is that is when you build the most preasure.

 

 

 

Oh i forgot all about that hose.... given that i haven't seen it since i put the a/c compressor back on.... i think that's the original hose... it's all warped... good idea Silver! lol bear with me as i don't have my father around anymore to help me with projects. I have to learn all by myself.... i'm used to american big blocks and the like.