October 30, 200619 yr the passenger side exhaust gasket keeps leaking, this is what I've been through: - replaced the gasket, leaked after 3 weeks, - then replaced the gasket again with some firegum (malleble gasket or something, don't know the correct english term), started leaking after 3 weeks, - last time I took off the entire manifold, filed the mating surfaces down to make sure they were 100% flat, again new gaskets, malleble stuff, and now, after 2 months, AGAIN, leaking it's constantly blowing between the head and header between or through the gasket, it's a near stock ea82t, and so is the manifold/uppipe, no cracks, tears, welds, whatever could I make the flange into a 4 bolt instead of 2 bolt?
October 30, 200619 yr often the studs get stripped, are you torquing it down with a torque wrench or just by feel? have you tried a Subaru OEM gasket? i'd use a Subaru gasket, torque to specs and make sure the stud and nut threads are cleaning. chase the stud threads with a die and the nut threads with a tap. this will ensure they glide on smooth and the torque you use is the torque you actually get on the gasket. i'd give this one more try with a Subaru gasket. they actually hold up quite well typically, so if it happens again then something is wrong like the head is warped or something.
October 30, 200619 yr Author I torque them down by feel and use some non-subaru (there not meant for a subaru, just went to the parts store and asked for "something-like-this") gaskets, OEM subaru gaskets are probably a pain to get, long order time and way too expensive. I just thought of something, maybe I could weld on the sides of the flanges, so that they are wider, possible weld in some bushes so that it is 4 bolt, that should solve my problems.
October 30, 200619 yr The aftermarket gaskets available for these cars blow (literally and figuratively). I only use the OEM ones, and I've never had trouble as long as the studs, the heads, and the exhaust were in decent shape. It shouldn't be that hard to get some, and they are not expensive at all. Many websites offer discounted OEM parts, and they should be able to ship to you.
October 31, 200619 yr i just replaced mine with a/m from napa.......the ones i took out had a metal edging ....i assume those were stock........the napa ones had no such thing.....i'll do the test of durabilty then. .......prolly blow them right out.......we'll see:D
October 31, 200619 yr Author yeah, that right, $3 but since I live in europe I will have to go bother the parts manager at my local subaru dealership again, although the gaskets I put in were all metal with metal ring inserts (!) so they ought be fine
October 31, 200619 yr Author alright, I've just ordered some through the dealer, and they were about $23 or something... $3, yeah right resistor block for the blower motor was $35 btw, is that oke?
October 31, 200619 yr $35 for a resistor block, if that's what it takes. are you sure it's broken? if it is, remove it and make sure a simple solder of one end won't fix it. they can get really dirty too. clean it out and make sure a simple solder somewhere won't fix it first. what do you need heat for (ha ha!)
October 31, 200619 yr alright, I've just ordered some through the dealer, and they were about $23 or something... Ouchies . Next time you need a set, tell me and I'll grab some and mail them in a letter envelope with cardboard on each side. GD
November 6, 200619 yr Author Ouchies . Next time you need a set, tell me and I'll grab some and mail them in a letter envelope with cardboard on each side. GD thanks for the offer! but hopefully I won't need them for a while I've got them today and installed them right away, removing the uppipe was a breeze, you just have to jack the car up real high (like, subaru jack with about 1" thick chunk of wood under it at full stretch) I've been driving around for a bit and by the sound of things, it's not leaking anymore, let's just hope that it stays this way the subaru gaskets had a lot more contact surface and I'm positive that they are way better than the aftermarket I had. thanks for the advice everybody!
November 15, 200619 yr Author time for a update.. It's leaking again! At the same gasket! grrr , this is really starting to piss me off, I now have, new subaru gaskets, new exhaust studs and nuts, every surface flattened, and it still leaks
November 15, 200619 yr you must have a clog somewhere else causing the gaskets to pop. maybe a cat or something..
November 15, 200619 yr you must have a clog somewhere else causing the gaskets to pop. maybe a cat or something.. +1. Maybe your cat exploded inside and you have too much back-pressure. GD
November 16, 200619 yr Author +1. Maybe your cat exploded inside and you have too much back-pressure. GD I have no cat, the manifold/uppipe is stock, with all new gaskets and resurfaced flanges, after the turbo it's 2,5 inch RVS all the way back with 1 highflow muffler at the end, so I would think there is 0,001 resistance/back-pressure
November 16, 200619 yr importecparts.com I torque them down by feel and use some non-subaru (there not meant for a subaru, just went to the parts store and asked for "something-like-this") gaskets, OEM subaru gaskets are probably a pain to get, long order time and way too expensive. I just thought of something, maybe I could weld on the sides of the flanges, so that they are wider, possible weld in some bushes so that it is 4 bolt, that should solve my problems.
November 16, 200619 yr europeon prices are very very expensive alright, I've just ordered some through the dealer, and they were about $23 or something... $3, yeah right resistor block for the blower motor was $35 btw, is that oke?
November 16, 200619 yr Author europeon prices are very very expensive yeah, I noticed that but cash is not really the problem, I'm just sick and tired of replacing the gaskets every month
October 18, 200718 yr Author I was searching for info about the blower motor and stumbled across this old thread of mine and decided it needed an update exhaust leak is fixed, the original gaskets and a helicoil in the head with new studs and nuts all-round did the trick. thing is, the thread looked oke to me, be apparently it would work itself loose one way or another, the helicoil stays put and has been doing so for the past 6000km
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