Thanx for the info.

As far as the kit.............

I dont wanna spend a bunch of money on parts when I bought the car for $500.

Its just my daily driver/go to the snow rig.

Its a disposable car in my book.

Not that i wanna loose it, just not putting that much into it.

Drive it till ish breaks.

Which usually isnt my moto.

I like to fix things before they break.

then why do the repair?. just drive it till it quits, buy a used engine and go again. i can't do it, but some people talk about pullling and installing an engine in a day. (i wouldn't even try) the timing belt will almost be that long. and engines are what 200$-300$???

then why do the repair?. just drive it till it quits, buy a used engine and go again. i can't do it, but some people talk about pullling and installing an engine in a day. (i wouldn't even try) the timing belt will almost be that long. and engines are what 200$-300$???

 

$200-$300 ?

Where ?

Id buy one instead of a Tbelt since my engine has 230k miles on it.

Im gonna do the repair because a new Tbelt , even if its not as good as a genuine subaru part, is better than a old oil soaked one w/whining idler pulleys.

Lets use some common sense. You go with cheap parts the car falls apart in a few months, where are you going to find another 500.00 car.

Go for more expensive parts (and we arent talking all the much money) car lasts much longer.

Getting an unknown engine for 500-700,00 when the one you have is fine is dumb. And guess whats the first thing you do on the repelacement engine?

you replace the water pump cam seals idlers timing belt and reseal the oil pump.

Come on people, think about this.

 

nipper

The on ebay is theimportexperts .

They are a power seller and there feedback is 99.9%.

that doesn't really mean anything towards the quality of the parts. feedback is typically left immediately, not proving anything long term.

but...i would still use an aftermarket timing belt on a non-interference engine. i've used Gates, Dayco and probably others on older non-interference subaru's with no issues to date. i keep an old timing belt and tools in the trunk and could slap on a new belt very quickly in any weather. everything is new, belt, water pump, pulley bearing grease, seals, oil pump...so failure is highly unlikely but i'm prepared just in case.

 

every inteference motor i've done has gotten all Subaru stuff.

The starter bump trick has worked for me thru 3 belt changes on my 2.5, so I endorse it. HOWEVER, a few caveats -- makes sure that you've removed the radiator before you try this trick, because if that breaker bar shifts it's gonna leave a lasting impression on anything in the general area! Also, I want to add my voice to the growing chorus endorsing nipper's advice. With Subaru engine parts, stick with OEM. I've had problems with a B&A water pump on my subie after only about 6 months and 10000 miles of use. The OE Sube pump that came with the car gave me more than 140000 miles of service!

 

Even though they are form, fit and function identical to the OE parts, nipper is right, there is a chance that you are buying factory seconds when you buy aftermarket, and with the time and trouble required to re-do that which you spent so long doing in the first place, a few extra $$ on Sube OEM is money well spent! However, I understand that sometimes the budget doesn't allow for all we'd like to do. A lot of us (myself included) although we're proud of the record setting mileage on our vehicles, are really still driving them because we just plain can't afford a newer machine. So, my recommendation is buy the best that you can afford as far as replacement parts go, and we here all have ample experience that Sube branded OE parts are the best available for these machines.

and with the time and trouble required to re-do that which you spent so long doing in the first place

that's the trick, get good and be set up right and they can be done real quick. your 2.5 is an interference engine, you are definitely wise on the OEM there. i've only installed Subaru stuff on inteference soob stuff.

Remove the radiator regardless. It makes it much easier to work in that area and doesn't really take that long.

Does the 2.2 have an idler pulley or is that only on the 2.5?

Yes, they both have the same number of idler pulleys. The geared/toothed near the water pump, and the two other smooth idlers. (Plus the tensioner idler of course).