i need a braker bar so i can remove my main pully so i can take off my oil pump, anyone have one that i could use for a few minutes? i tried a rachet and a peice of pipe but it just kind of bent and broke the pipe. anybody got any other tricks? i havce a tourque wrench but i have always been told not to use it as a breaker bar but its the only thing that is long enough (i'm trying to use my starter to brake the bolt loose, some of you know what i'm talking about).

i need a braker bar so i can remove my main pully so i can take off my oil pump, anyone have one that i could use for a few minutes? i tried a rachet and a peice of pipe but it just kind of bent and broke the pipe. anybody got any other tricks? i havce a tourque wrench but i have always been told not to use it as a breaker bar but its the only thing that is long enough (i'm trying to use my starter to brake the bolt loose, some of you know what i'm talking about).

I used a pipe from Home Depot to break mine loose. I also had a buddy hold the brake pedal down as well leave the car in gear. Those combined together make short work of the bolt. I tightened it back the same way.

 

The pipe is a heavy pipe about 2.5 feet long. I have used it to tighten the axle castle nut with my 18" Craftsman breaker bar. So, it gives you an idea of how heavy it is. Good luck!

yeah that was my next step, go to are ************y rump roast ace hardware. and a possilbe wet bike ride.

yeah that was my next step, go to are ************y rump roast ace hardware. and a possilbe wet bike ride.

Bummer I am helping a buddy with his car tonight. I could have rolled out there and helped you out.

Use a 1/2in drive ratchet and pipe, make sure the pipe is at least 2.5ft long. Then lay it against the right side, usually against the battery(EA82). Remove the coil wire and give the ignition a quick bump. This will break the nut loose.

would that be drivers right on the ea-82? i've have tried it on both side and it didn't loosen it

Yes, the drivers side. If you tried it on the other side, the wrench should have flipped over and caused noise/dents/broken windows, etc.

i have no idea why its not working i've done it before to replace a front manin seal. but i think i put the end of the pipe on diver's left and i used a real braker bar.

i used a 4 foot long pipe to do mine, it ruined my 1/2 in drive ratchet tho, destroyed the ratcheting mechinism, so i returned it to sears and got another one for free, lol. left it in gear with the Ebrake on

so if you are stanign in front of the motor (ea-81) witch way does it spin?

you know righty tighty lefty loosy? I really agree with the whole dropping of the coil wire and giving ignition a bump works every time. or if you have no ac just drop the rad and hit it with a 3/4 impact. Ive done both.

I infinitely prefer to use the rope trick, and some heavy pipe.

 

rope trick: take a sprak plug out, slowly push a bit of rope into the cylinder, and then just turn it counter clockwise. You really have no idea how much force you can exert when youre laying on your back.. multiply that times a four foot bar and you are in business.

 

If I'm using a piece of skinny or weak pipe as a cheater bar, I often get a piece of concrete rebar and put it in the other end of the pipe, making sure to overlap the rather/breaker bar handle and the rebar if possible. This stiffens the cheap pipe and helps keep it from bending.

 

 

I dont think I have EVER had to resort to the starter bump to remove a crankshaft bolt, and not failed at that as well. The only time I can remember trying it, the crankshaft/timing sprocket/woodruff key on the engine in question had all been loctited together as a fix for a terminal engine problem... and it took a 3/4" impact gun being supplied by 5/8" air line to get that bugger loose. i am imagining somewhere on the order of 800+ pounds of force (not torque, not ft-lbs, pounds) to break that sucker loose.