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Ok, so if i was going to buy a weber to put on one of my cars, which model would be the best to use? I know next to nothing about the acronyms used by weber, so if you could clarify them, that would help. I've heard a lot of people using 32/36 or something, but ive also heard 38/38. what is the best one to use? this would be on an EA71 or EA81 depending on how soon the engine gets replaced.

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Just about everybody uses the 32/36 DGEV. I can't remember who, but somebody on the board is running a 38/38 something. The 32/36 is the most popular because it's easy, its not terribly expensive, and it usually improves the fuel economy. Also remember that our engines have lame intakes and really can't flow much more than the 32/36 will.

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Well the plan was to have the intake manifold extrude honed, and maybe the heads too, so that would improve the airflow into the cylinder. Would a 38/38 be good to use in that situation?

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Not likely. A 38/38 is designed for a much higher displacement engine. I don't think you could even re-jet it properly to work. Check http://www.carbsunlimited.com for info. I have a weber manual and as soon as I unpack it (we just moved) I could give you more information on this. My two cents--go with the 32/36 and get it with the electric choke option.

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sounds like 32/36 is the best option. so where did people get theirs from? I've heard a lot about Bow-Wow and Redline, but which company sells the best kit?

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Yeah for most applications the 32/36 makes the most sense. I've got the 38/38 on my EA81 and did so only after much research and on the advise of the techs at Redline. I've got it mounted on a modified EA82 intake and a custom bolt on adapter which, by my reconning flows a lot more air than the stock Hitachi intake.

 

Simply put, the progressive 32/36 is perfect for daily driving conditions and good overall performance. For most people it's the best choice. It can usually be tuned to pass emissions and provide good economy while still performing well on the track or in the woods. It all depends on how much that 36mm throttle is used (ie: how heavy your foot.) That's the beauty of a progressive carb. Everybody seems to agree that it's a huge improvement over the stock Hitachi.

 

Now the 38/38 on the other hand, being synconous, both of it's throttles open at the same time so it's inherently more fuel thirsty. But in trade you get more torque at low rpms and at full throttle it can feed as much air and gas as the engine can burn. It can be jetted for dang near any engine but is best suited to a "built" one. Somewhere around here I still have the email I got from the Techs at Redline, hopefully I can dig it up. I basically told them the what I was doing (EA81 Subaru trail car) and they were very emphatic that a 38/38 was the way to go if I could make the intake flow better and didn't mind getting a couple less miles per gallon. I told them that I was going to build the engine, so they jetted my carb accordingly. But after ording it I decided instead to keep my engine "stock" so concequently I need to rejet the carb as it runs a bit rich with the jets Redline installed. My point is that the techs are real good at putting in the correct jets if you tell them about engine it's going on when you order it. Changing the jets is no big deal, I just haven't gotten around to it. Even running rich and stumbling a bit, I'm very happy with mine. It makes much more torque at 1000rpms and has a lot of balls for being on a stock engine. As for mounting the 38/38, the base is the same bolt pattern as the 32/36 but the throttle bores are larger, so the standard 32/36-style manifold adapter would need a lot of porting to work.

 

Carfreak, Redline is the official USA importer and distributor of Weber. Bow Wow is the Seattle area retail chain that mostly sell VW stuff, but have been giving us Subaru freaks discount prices on Webers. Talk to Chris at the Lynnwood store or ask Zap who he deals with at the Lake City store. I forget what I paid for mine, but it was like $20 or so less that anywhere online. Think it took about a week from the time I ordered it for it to come in. Oops late for work again, gotta go.

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I've found good technical support and information at http://www.carbsunlimited.com/. Besides that (and prices on the "small stuff" being very good) they are located in Fife, WA just off of I-5--you can see their shop as you drive by going to Tacoma. Bow-wow in Lynnwood is good also, but has limited stock on hand. Shop around and do a price comparison and let us know what you find.

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well the intake manifold and heads on this engine will be ported and maybe extrude honed (if pricing permits), so airflow will deffinatly not be a problem. not sure of the best route yet. can i get some more opinions and personal experience from board members?

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I don't know if your 83 which i'm assuming this weber would go on, i also have the 32/36 and love it, but check if you have hydraulic lifters, if you do you have the bigger valves, if you don't i would reccomend a trip to the pap and getting some hydro lifter heads, weber won't do much good with the small valves.

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How hard is it to get a weber to pass emissions in WA. I have an 83 ea-81 wagon and it is having some serious ideling problem. I replaced all the vacume hoses and it helped a little. Still wont idle without dieing under 1500rpms. I thinking about going with the weber instead of the stock hitachi. I have to pass emission before the car is leagal to drive. I know a lot of you washington people run the webers so some one should be able to help me.

Thanks

David

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Fiind the post from Matt (Superrallyvovo or something like that) about failing emissions for my thoughts on that. I've been assured my Brat (weberized) will pass emissions from my favorite professional emissions guru but haven't had the time to take it through yet. As far as not idling, I'd say you're missing a vacuum line somewhere. My son has an '83 wagon and you're welcome to compare vacuum lines if you like (we're in Bothell now so it shouldn't be too hard to get together).

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Well you did ask about Webers.

The EA82 SPFI manifold is a good starting place for better flow dynamics. Mike W turned me on to this. Adapter made from a 1"thick piece of plexiglass. Had to be beveled to make the carb sit level.

SPFIWeber.JPG

That is a four barrel Weber jetted very lean.

 

This one never got running right either, it is on a hacked and whacked Hicrappy manifold. connected with rubber rad hoses

weber40.JPG

Weber DCOE 42

here is the "real deal"

weberwknn.JPG

Weber DGEV 32/36

read my signature

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