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Goatboy

Ignition timing EA82. Distributor can't turn anymore

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Total longshot...is the diaphragm in the advance pod attached to the side of your dist. dead? Could this be preventing the car from advancing? (If you are adjusting/checking for advance...).

 

Or are you stuck not being able to get proper timing at idle? That would be strange and related to the dist. *maybe* being a single tooth off against the camshaft? I am not sure here - better minds than mine will hopefully chime in.

 

Best of luck,

John

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Thats a possibility. I have never pulled a dist. out before. Maybe someone else did though and didn't put it back right. It is almost at 300k miles on this thing. I am sure someone has messed with this car a bunch. There were parts missing and vac lines mis routed.

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All of my dist. work has been on other cars but God hates a coward, so here's my take...

 

Set the car to TDC (on #1 of course). Confirm this via timing mark at crankcase. To be extra sure, remove #1 plug and note if, with finger over hole, compression is felt: this indicates two closed valves.

 

Now pull the dist. cap and, hopefully, Subaru has marked a small notch on the dist. that should orient with your rotor. In your case, should the dist. be off as we have postulated, that mark will *not* line up with the rotor. Your job is to align the rotor by essentially moving the body of the dist. Since you can't do that (you are out of room) you will now need to remove the dist and turn it as needed to align that rotor with the notch on the dist body. Since most all dists use a near-worm type gear, you will be putting the dist. in and the rotor will turn as the gear engages with the camshaft end. You may need to try this a few times to bring your dist into spec.

 

Really, the thing to remember is to set the car exactly to TDC and then bring the dist., by removal and turning, into a usable range of rotation again. This is typically noted by the rotor/notch relation.

 

This is the way the Bosch and Lucas distributors work. I have never taken a look at a Soobs so I am a bit in the dark here, but surely some *real* mechanic on this 'board will chime in with concrete knowledge.

 

Best of luck,

John

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Ok, VERY important thing to check while doing all of this. Once the flywheel is lined up so the #1 cylinder is at TDC (Top Dead Center) pull off the timing belt covers and make sure the marks on the cams line up with the notches on the back half of the timing belt covers. That side could have jumped a tooth on the timing belt and thrown every thing off. If that is the case it's time to replace your timing belts, and doing that will line up the ignition timing again.

 

Keith

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Keith makes a good point on this, and you probably would have suddenly noticed a difference in the running of your engine should this have happened. Then your post would have asked if these engines are non-interference or whattheheck is that rattling sound!

 

One thing I am still not getting is if you are not finding your timing mark at idle or when you rev the engine to find full advance. Which is it? If advance, you ought to be looking at leaks or a blown diaphragm (sp?) in the pod on the side of your dist. Apples and Oranges so let us know what you are seeing that tells you something is wrong.

 

Jw

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I just bought the car last weekend and am in the process of trying to get it in the best order possible before taking it through Emissions Tests. The carb was all screwed up and the vac lines were all going to the wrong places. Still haveing idleing problems. When I was looking at the dist. I noticed the thing was spun to its max. I figure that can't be right and started asking around. I haven't put a timing light on it yet. You check the timing through that slot on the bell right? And I believe this is supposed to be 20 degrees before, right?

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I think a carb motor is 8 deg BTDC. someone will have to confirm that for you though

sounds like the dizzy is a tooth off..

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jdub close enough. the dist is really easy to move one tooth. you do not need to pullit out all the way. in fact I dont evin bother with lining up #1. I have done it a few times now. but the part you need to be concerned about rotating is the rotor. it is attached to the gear not the body of the disty.

so pop of cap. mark location of dist AND rotor incase you get messed up. remove the 2 bolts that hold in the disty and using both hands, one on the dist. body and one on the rotor. pull up untill you can rotate the dist shaft freely. rotate it a bit in wich ever direction you decide it needs to go and push it down again.

the rotor will turn as you pull it out dot let it confuse you.

 

rallykeith is right too but I have a really easy way to check that too. using a timing light to check #1 tdc then clip onto the companion cyl. and check timing. it should be the same. I think its #4? could be wrong bout that but you can verify by tring it.

 

my 85 gl ea82 carbed was good arond 5 deg.

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