zukiru Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 I use a chopped section of old timing belt, and a vise-grip, to hold the cam gear while torquing / breaking their bolts. vise grip.. red neck multi-tool!! did just this same thing the other day.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 back yard spring compressor. clamped it down far enough to take the nut off without killing myself... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com when I did the coil-over on my ex-old escort I just undid the nut on the car then slowly jacked it up.. works on escorts not sure how it's work on a subie.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RdNkBrt Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Ok, this one is REALLY sketchy, so i dont recomend it unless it's a REALLY tight pinch....up front exhaust leak + aluminum foil folded over about 10 times and wrapped around the leak+ Zip ties= passing SMOG. Just dont let the car get TOO warm before you get there or the zips will melt and not smell very good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 Ok, this one is REALLY sketchy, so i dont recomend it unless it's a REALLY tight pinch....up front exhaust leak + aluminum foil folded over about 10 times and wrapped around the leak+ Zip ties= passing SMOG. Just dont let the car get TOO warm before you get there or the zips will melt and not smell very good! Same thing as a soda can with hose clamps..... Hey guys,some of these completely S U C K so please just add a post IF YOU HAVE AN ACTUAL TOOL THAT WORKS ON AN ACTUAL Subaru PART. We all know the wonders of duct tape,and such. Nice that some of you want to chime in for the sake of conversation but that's not the intention of this post thread. Some useful makeshift TOOLS have really been a blessing. Like I said,what you see here on Sunday might get you to work on Monday.Things you do in a pinch to get a job done,yes,but I really was hoping we'd keep it to the TOOLS and methods. Lots of folks have made the axle tool.I'm glad some of you posted a pic.Then others can copy it.Hoping to see more pics or good descriptions like we've had. Don't be a tool,post your tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 A - Wrench extender - This is the cylinder from the front strut from a 1976 4WD wagon - the first car I bought. The struts were actually made so that they could be disassembled and rebuilt. B - 1/16" rectangular steel tube - use to keep wheel from spinning while turning axle nuts. Also used for pushing the transverse link down to remove a strut or ball joint. It rests on the back side of the link on the folded edge and touches the leading rod, extending the effective length so that it can easily be pushed down with a foot or knee, leaving both hands free to deal with the strut etc. C & D - Exhaust system pressure drop meter. big end of C goes to tail pipe. Smaller end of C goes to vacuum cleaner. Disconnect Y pipe from engine - (about a 1" gap) Turn on vac, see needle move. Compare to known good system. Made from PVC plumbing and vacuum motor from heater controls. E - Brake piston "screw driver". Swing brake caliper to open position. set the nubs (left end in pic) into the depressions on the piston. Fold a work glove, place between the big bolt head (right end) and body. lean into car. Turn square tube with 1" wrench. The tube spins on the bolt. F - 1/4" thick steel piece used with a gear puller to remove the first bearing in a front hub. G - Dead 6203 bearing - Ground 20 thou under standard OD. Used to install new 6203 bearing into the gear toothed timing belt idler for EA82. H - Modified socket and extension for head bolt on EA82. I - 1/2" drive torque wrench to camshaft pulley adapter. For tensioning EA82 timing belts. Made from 3/8" thick aluminum. J - Aluminum bar for holding EA82 cam gear while turning mounting bolts. K - Crankshaft pulley holder for 2001 Forester. 1/4" steel bar, 7/16 NF bolts w/ heads cut off, tapped into bar, jamb nuts on back so they don't move. Notch allows clearance for socket on crank pulley bolt. L - Contact pin remover. Made from a stainless steel wiper blade edge. One end ground narrower, one end ground thinner. Works on most connectors in EA82 and older subes. Not shown - Piston pin remover - 1/4" carriage bolt with head ground to fit through hole. Use with a nut and a Wonder Bar to pull wrist pins. Not shown - Extra spacer from front wheel bearing assembly, used to pull new CVJ end into hub with the axle nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 I had to grind an axle nut to have a tapper on it so it would fit in the hubs tapper to pull the axle splines into the hub. It worked really good. I've done plenty of others, including some 1" long bit of metal pipe to press wheel bearings in. And so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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