I have a subaru legacy 95 wagon, when car is stoped in drive or reverse it vibrates/shakes when in park or N its ok

 

what could it be my mechanic says he cant do nothing about it :-\

Do a search here, lots of posts on it, lots of theories, some people can fix it, others can't.

 

nipper

If you please, you could read the folloowing very recent

posts on this problem.

Hope they help shed some light.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69552&highlight=idle+vibration

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70480&highlight=idle+vibration

BTW

I found these by doing a "Search" using "idle problem" in

the New Gen forum

Hi mks64 and welcome! Did you by any chance have any of the axle half shafts/cv joints replaced with aftermarket rebuilts units right before this problem started?

thanks for the replies and not sure if cv joints have been changed only had the car for 5 months

good luck.

 

Mine does it too, as do many others with different generations and different engines.

Now I have a new symptom to add.

When I first start out in the morning it feels like the car does not want to stop. I have to put the brakes on pretty hard to keep the car from moving when at a stop in gear. This is noticeable and causes lots of shaking. After the transmission has warmed up (ie 15 minutes of driving) it is not nearly as bad. I can ease up on the brakes and the shaking is maybe only 1/2 as bad. It's been around -5C around here, so it takes a while for the fluid to warm up.

 

Current possible solutions are:

new engine mounts

new torque converter

ATF pump

Flexplate

TCU

I am going to flush the tranny again and replace the filters and use Subaru ATF just to rule that out.

good luck.

 

Mine does it too, as do many others with different generations and different engines.

Now I have a new symptom to add.

When I first start out in the morning it feels like the car does not want to stop. I have to put the brakes on pretty hard to keep the car from moving when at a stop in gear. This is noticeable and causes lots of shaking. After the transmission has warmed up (ie 15 minutes of driving) it is not nearly as bad. I can ease up on the brakes and the shaking is maybe only 1/2 as bad. It's been around -5C around here, so it takes a while for the fluid to warm up.

 

Current possible solutions are:

new engine mounts

new torque converter

ATF pump

Flexplate

TCU

I am going to flush the tranny again and replace the filters and use Subaru ATF just to rule that out.

 

There are a lot of threads on the brakes failing when cold. Actually waht we think is happening is that the check valave to the booster is gummed up and sticking in sub zero weather. It seems to be easily fixed by spraying the valve with carb cleaner.

 

nipper

It feels more like the transmission is applying force to the wheels as opposed to the brakes being difficult to actuate. I did some experimenting to confirm what I was feeling. I suspect there TC is applying torque when it is cold at idle, the vibration could be worse due to this extra load and making whatever it is shake more. As it warms up there is less load and less shaking.

It feels more like the transmission is applying force to the wheels as opposed to the brakes being difficult to actuate. I did some experimenting to confirm what I was feeling. I suspect there TC is applying torque when it is cold at idle, the vibration could be worse due to this extra load and making whatever it is shake more. As it warms up there is less load and less shaking.

 

This makes sense, as the fluid is cold, thus thicker. The TC would add more force. As for the shaking, the boxer 4 is inherently smooth,but @ idle just about every Subie I've had ,has had some vibration.

My car vibrates when low on trans fluid. It also doesn't like taking off, it will run up to 4000rpm before it will take off from a dead stop. This is when the trans fluid is at the low warm mark, I add 1/2qt to 1qt of fluid and it goes away.

My car vibrates when low on trans fluid. It also doesn't like taking off, it will run up to 4000rpm before it will take off from a dead stop. This is when the trans fluid is at the low warm mark, I add 1/2qt to 1qt of fluid and it goes away.

Dude that is very bad for the AT, it will shred the clutches very quickly.

Mine is really bad first thing in the morning and also when AC is on.

Its good to know im not the only one, was thinking of selling the car but besides it vibrating its a good car.

WISH I KNEW HOW TO FIX IT

Can someone put a vacum gauge on these cars (and drive with it) and tell us how the needle is responding, as that would help.

 

nipper