88whitecat Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 But not getting any smarter doing it! I have a (2.2l) 98 Legacy wagon with more than a couple of problems. Yes I did search! For a couple days I did. Anyway, I wrecked pretty good on the highway and some things havent been right since. To start with I am trying to obtain some suspension info. I need to replace my rear drivers side lower control arm, spindle, lateral links, the whole nine yards. Has anyone else had to? I got underneath and it looks pretty straight forward. Just a couple of bolts and it drops right down right? Thing number 2 is an oil leak at a rate of 1q+ a week! Its definitely coming from behind the timing cover and flows down and across the exhaust where it burns off.I figure its the cam and/or crank seals. I saw many people pull their motors to do head gaskets but is taking it out and working it over my best bet in this case? #3 is probably the stupidist. While working under the dash I found a green electrcal connector undone. I hooked it up and when I next started the car it idled rough and my CEL blinked at me(nonstop till I turned it off). Can someone tell me why? Is something wrong and was disconnected to hide it? I guess thats it for now. There are plenty more q's but only so many can be addressed at once. Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Green connectors are part of the diagnostic system. They are meant to be loose like that. You can do the seals with the motor in. Hell I've done head gaskets with the motor in... Rear suspension isn't hard to change, but get a full alignment job done imediately afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitecat Posted March 24, 2007 Author Share Posted March 24, 2007 I've been drving it like this for over a year now. I put a new (used) tire on every 2-4 months depending on how good the tire was to begin with. I'm riding on the sidewall and tires just werent meant to do that. And good to know abt those connectors, I'll leave them be. I was removing the alarm system to put it in my other car when I found them and said "self, those look like they should be plugged in." guess not. as for the seals do the cam and crank need to be removed to replace them? ie leave engine in but take out the radiator for the room? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 No for removing cam and crank. You'll have to pull the outer t belt covers, loosen the cam bolts(don't remove yet), remove timing belt(good time for a new one), pull the cam sprokets and crank gear and all the inner covers. Best way to get the front main seal(crank seal) is to remove the oil pump, make sure you've got some sort of seal puller. The cam seals are in a thing(can't remember technical name) held to the head by 3? bolts on each side. Remove them and replace seals, there are also o-rings on the side of these where it conects to the head replace them too. From there you are ready to put it back together, follow reverse order of teardown. Make sure you get the timing marks lined up right for the t-belt. If you don't have a service manual, might want to invest as it'll have torque specs and picutes along with the write-ups for the timing and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 you probably ought to check/replace the o-ring behind the oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 I've been drving it like this for over a year now. I put a new (used) tire on every 2-4 months depending on how good the tire was to begin with. I'm riding on the sidewall and tires just werent meant to do that. And good to know abt those connectors, I'll leave them be. I was removing the alarm system to put it in my other car when I found them and said "self, those look like they should be plugged in." guess not. as for the seals do the cam and crank need to be removed to replace them? ie leave engine in but take out the radiator for the room? You should repair asap cause you're probably in the process of ruining the AWD system. Subaru recommends a max diff of 1/4 inch in tire circumference on any wheel compared to the others. I would bet your used tire riding on its side is more than 1/4 inch off compared to the three others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Please tell us you have a fuse in the FWD holder under the hood. Otherwise like was said your killing your AWD system. All that oil is the crank seal or the oil pump. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitecat Posted March 24, 2007 Author Share Posted March 24, 2007 Frag, I'm only killing the AWD if running it in FWD mode is going to kill it. I have had to enable the AWD for bad weather a couple times and I could feel that something wasn't right. It had a tendency to what I believe was drive the wheels at different speeds causeing a drifting/lack of precise control effect. Johnc, where would that be located? Do you think it might be my leak? I'm definitely not a mechanic but my first thought was pump in pan + o-ring at pump = o-ring in pan. or are you mentioning it as precautionary maintanance when I start tearing into it? And Bratman do you know where to get a decent sevice manual? preferably one that includes the EVTM? All iever seem to find are Haynes and personally I dslike them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Frag, I'm only killing the AWD if running it in FWD mode is going to kill it. I have had to enable the AWD for bad weather a couple times and I could feel that something wasn't right. It had a tendency to what I believe was drive the wheels at different speeds causeing a drifting/lack of precise control effect.. Mopre likely the fact that everything is beant at that one wheel is causing you the drifitng. The way the tires are wearing is more dangerous then anything else. Why do i get the feeling that this car is not all that safe to operate in its present condition? Be careful. You got a pic of it by any chance, im curious to see how bad it is. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitecat Posted March 24, 2007 Author Share Posted March 24, 2007 Give me a couple of mins. I alwasys say i gotta take a picture so everyone can laugh but it never happens its nice out thoiugh so I should be capable of some good shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitecat Posted March 24, 2007 Author Share Posted March 24, 2007 Well here goes nothing. I dont know much about how to post pictores or links bout I hope this works. I directs you to my aol photo album. If not maybe someone can school me a bit. Edit: deleted link. It made my own ie6 lockup and force an end task. will try later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 Frag, I'm only killing the AWD if running it in FWD mode is going to kill it. I have had to enable the AWD for bad weather a couple times and I could feel that something wasn't right. It had a tendency to what I believe was drive the wheels at different speeds causeing a drifting/lack of precise control effect.Johnc, where would that be located? Do you think it might be my leak? I'm definitely not a mechanic but my first thought was pump in pan + o-ring at pump = o-ring in pan. or are you mentioning it as precautionary maintanance when I start tearing into it? And Bratman do you know where to get a decent sevice manual? preferably one that includes the EVTM? All iever seem to find are Haynes and personally I dslike them. Chiltons is a pretty good one for most stuff, untill you get to wiring and such, if you can find a FSM for your year that would be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana105 Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I would definitely recomend a haynes or FSM as it sounds you are more familiar with American cars and may need to study the workings of the Subaru engine. It will also help you see how things are laid out with steering and suspension.Sounds like you've got some major issues,pictures would help if you can figure that out,can't help you there sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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