I'm rebuilding a ea82T, and I just got some rebuilt heads. The gaskets are out of a Felpro rebuild gasket kit I got at the local Autozone.

 

I was just wondering what people recomend as far as head gasket sealant.

 

Information on other sealants (for coolant, etc.) are also appreciated.

 

A Gibson.

Headgaskets are normally installed dry. No sealant is required or recomended.

 

GD

head gasket add ons are only really necessary if you have a FE block and AL heads, the different expansion rates rips up gaskets quick, thank you GM for teaching us this, in the 80's and again just recently with the duramax. one side of the gasket is glued down and the other is made more slippery, that reduces tearing, but since you have AL block and heads no need to worry, just make sure that you follow the proper torque specs, the older engines needed oiled threads and had a 3 step process, if you don't do this right you will be taking off the heads again.

Funny that you use "FE" - he might not know that this is the abbreviation for iron in chemistry (latin maybe???). Noah is right on tho - back when it was popular to use aluminium heads on cast iron blocks, head gaskets became a real issue.

 

Another interesting thing about those engines. Since you have two dissimilar metals, touching the same body of liquid (coolant), you have a battery weather you like it or not. This is the reason for zinc in your anti-freeze. The zinc takes the errosion from the electrostatic discharge on your engine instead of it eating away the aluminium in your heads. This is why anti-freeze needs to be changed at least once every two years EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer. The zinc will be gone, and there will be no protection against this type of corrosion.

 

Just something VERY few people know in my experience.

 

GD

head gaskets for subarus have graphite facing that allows for different expansion rates between the block and the head. although the head and block are aluminum, the head is going to heat up faster than the block, until it evens out.

 

ps: how much were the head gaskets from auto zone. i recall one account where a head gasket from advance auto was like 40 bucks, but were like 27 at napa.

SOA's Headgaskets are the same price as Advance.

Thanks for the help guys. I installed the heads this weekend sans sealant.

 

As far as the cost of the gaskets, the head gaskets came in a rebuild kit. head, valve covers, and various coolant, intake, and the turbo exhaust gaskets all for a little over $100.

 

The kit is made by Felpro, and it can be found on Autozones web site (that's where I found it).

 

I was curious about the sealant issue because the haynes manual doesn't really stress it, and who ever rebuilt this engine before me used _way_ to much. Areas of the water jacket between the heads and the block were actualy plugged with sealant. We think it might have caused hot spots which cracked the heads that were originaly on there.

i would recommend no sealant, as i have done al my heads without, your gaskets should be graphite faced, which allows for expansion of the head.

if anything, use the sealant on the block side of the gasket

Graphite? I seem to recall Teflon being used, but don't remember the source.

i dont know the specifics, but the victor reinz gaskets i get from NAPA are graphite, as well as intake and exhaust gaskets, too

 

the felpro gaskets for my turbo were also graphite

don't want to jack this thread, but...

 

At what point should a person consider Copper Head gaskets? I plan to rebuild an EA82T and may do the Carb block swap for higher compression.

 

When do Copper head gaskets become necessary?

 

Has anyone made their own CU hg?

It seems pretty easy for a guy with a milling machine and a buch of different size holesaws and drill bits

 

Any thoughts?

We like a light spray of Permatex Copper Spray A Gasket on both sides of the head gasket just before installation. Helps them keep from slipping and helps them seal well.

 

Emily

http://www.ccrengines.com

Originally posted by GeneralDisorder

Another interesting thing about those engines. Since you have two dissimilar metals, touching the same body of liquid (coolant), you have a battery weather you like it or not. This is the reason for zinc in your anti-freeze. The zinc takes the errosion from the electrostatic discharge on your engine instead of it eating away the aluminium in your heads. This is why anti-freeze needs to be changed at least once every two years EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer. The zinc will be gone, and there will be no protection against this type of corrosion.

 

Just something VERY few people know in my experience.

 

GD

 

On a side note, there is a sacrificial zinc anode in water heaters and outboard engine boats for just this reason. The same people tend not to know this. Number one cause of death for hot water heaters.

 

$0.02

Kalo;)