akafriday Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 98 Subaru 2.5L outback. Trying to locate a source for a knock sensor - been to the obvious places i.e. Parts Source, Crappy Tire etc but they either want to much $$ or it will take 2+ weeks to get it. The car is driving ok currently - can I afford to wait? If not where should I look for one? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Places like All Subaru should be able to help you out. Here is a link. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214117 You can trick the ECU until you get a replacement by substituting around a 520 kiloohm (520,000) resistor in place of the sensor. Driving without it won't hurt things either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akafriday Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Thanks Cougar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Subaru OEM part 22060AA061 $69.84 Electrical - Powertrain control - Knock sensor Knock sensor, legacy, 2.5l 1997 - 1999 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 www.rockauto.com They've got them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commuter Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 98 Subaru 2.5L outback. Trying to locate a source for a knock sensor - been to the obvious places i.e. Parts Source, Crappy Tire etc but they either want to much $$ or it will take 2+ weeks to get it. The car is driving ok currently - can I afford to wait? If not where should I look for one? Thanks in advance! I see you are in Ottawa. Do what I did and order it out of the States. Dealer wanted $202 (retail list Cdn) for the part. D'oh! With our $ where it is at these days, it doesn't make sense to pay that sort of difference. Ship it to a friend in the States and drive it across if possible. But even with the cost of brokerage, it will still be cheaper. I have to change mine out yet. I didn't have the right sockets and extensions with me last weekend. grr 12mm socket. 17 ft-lb torque. Angle pigtail at 45 degrees relative to engine axis (or firewall). Just note the position of the existing one. A magnet tool can help so you don't lose the bolt. Commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2X2KOB Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Just curious, why are you changing it? Check engine light and code? These things don't fail much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akafriday Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Thanks for the comments all. The reason I am changing it is to resolve a P0325 or Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction. I understand that may not mean the sensor and could be the wiring but I am hoping for the best. Yes the CEL is lit and as I mentioned the car is driving "ok" but not great. I am thinking that there is some mild knocking going on, although not audible, and because the sensor (or cuircuit) has malfunctioned the timing is not being adjusted correctly resulting in sub par performance. I have alleviated the problem by moving to the highest grade gas available - I can't imagine this causing a problem, can anyone comment? I am glad this forum exists there are few forums that exists with this number of knowledgeable and helpful individuals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commuter Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Just curious, why are you changing it? Check engine light and code? These things don't fail much. I've been getting an intermittent CEL for a few months with the P0325 code. No evidence of knocking that I can hear. In fact, it usually happens as I'm idling after a highway drive. The casing sometimes cracks on these things. After 10 years and 500k km, I will not be surprised if that is what I find. Commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akafriday Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Well from what I have read - engine knock is not necessarily audible. If it's really bad well sure you'd probably hear it if you knoew what to listen for. It sounds as though you have the exact same problem I do. The way I figure it - if the sensor is used to adjust timing then it's something I would prefer to have working. Plus the part is not that expensive and can be changed relatively easily (from what I have read ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Right, the knock sensor is designed to send a signal to the ecu if any spark knock(detonation) or any other for of knocking occurs. It then pulls 15 degrees of timing from the ignition system to try to correct the problem. Some have reported oversensitive knock sensors on motors with mild piston slap. And have relocated them due to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet82 Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I have the same problem, same code, I just relocated it and left it alone. I still get a CEL on occasion. It does not seem to change how it runs. I'm still looking for a good price too...:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 One thing that can be tried for those of you with the P0325 error code is to replace the sensor with a half watt resistor. The value should be around 510,000 ohms or 510k ohms. If the problem clears then the trouble is with the sensor output and the sensor should be replaced. If the trouble remains then the wiring to the sensor needs to be checked. A resistor will cost you around 25 cents to purchase. A lot less than a new sensor costs if you really don't need one. I don't recommend replacing a bad sensor with the resistor as a fix, but just for a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commuter Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Changed my knock sensor yeterday. No problem getting the old one out with the right socket, extension and adapters. Putting the new one in was a bit of a hassle. The bolt didn't want to catch the threads. It goes in at a sight angle relative to the socket extension. And there is no way to really get your hand(s) down in there (unless you start removing the air box, etc.) After some fiddling, I finally got it. Snap the connector together and back up and running. I put on over 300 km yesterday without an issue. The old sensor had 3 hairline radial cracks in the top of it. Commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akafriday Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 Just a follow up. Bought a knock sensor for around $140 cdn and installed in about 30 minutes and bingo light is out and stayed out. My only advice to others is BUY ONLINE! Got my sensor at crappy tire - and they say it can not be returned. Now the CEL is on again - something else I am sure. Probably an O2 sensor and I will be sure to buy that one online! Thanks all for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Just a follow up. Bought a knock sensor for around $140 cdn and installed in about 30 minutes and bingo light is out and stayed out. My only advice to others is BUY ONLINE! Got my sensor at crappy tire - and they say it can not be returned. Now the CEL is on again - something else I am sure. Probably an O2 sensor and I will be sure to buy that one online! Thanks all for the advice. they sell it?????? You should have just got it off of https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html I paid $60 for it and our conversion is pretty close to the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 my legacy sat for awhile before i got around to fixing it. fixed it and it had a knock sensor and O2 sensor code. cleared the code twice and it kept returning. i filled it up with fresh gas, replaced the O2 sensor and the code went away. a used one isn't a bad option. i pulled one off a 80,000 mile motor that looks great, i'll install that if the code ever returns. i was going to install it anyway, but the freaking bolt was too rusty and the socket wouldn't even grab it. just my luck, how does that bolt head rust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 my legacy sat for awhile before i got around to fixing it. fixed it and it had a knock sensor and O2 sensor code. cleared the code twice and it kept returning. i filled it up with fresh gas, replaced the O2 sensor and the code went away. a used one isn't a bad option. i pulled one off a 80,000 mile motor that looks great, i'll install that if the code ever returns. i was going to install it anyway, but the freaking bolt was too rusty and the socket wouldn't even grab it. just my luck, how does that bolt head rust? I don't know its just corrosion lol. Moisture and metal eh? Get a screw remover. Or grab the bolt with pliers. You sure your using hte correct socket?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 positive. i can see it's rusted and warn down and i know it was the right size, i double checked on the one i removed from a spare engine...12mm i think, either way it was definitely right. i was thinking about trying one mm smaller and seeing if i could pound it on...like an 11mm. i have spare engines and removed a good knock sensor just fine. hopefully the code never comes back, seems to be fine now. i'd need some really long, skinny pliers to fit down there and grab it, i don't have any that would work for that. but i could use a set like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 I believe the Bosch knock sensors are identical (eg: Saab) and about $80. Of course a 520k resistor is about 5 cents........... Wait until you need a turbo crossover pipe in Canada, retail is $400+, then you WILL be looking aftermarket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Just a follow up. Bought a knock sensor for around $140 cdn and installed in about 30 minutes and bingo light is out and stayed out. My only advice to others is BUY ONLINE! Got my sensor at crappy tire - and they say it can not be returned. Now the CEL is on again - something else I am sure. Probably an O2 sensor and I will be sure to buy that one online! Thanks all for the advice. It would interesting to know if the CEL is once again the knock sensor...let us know ..thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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