there is a 99 Outback I am thinking about buying and seller says that it burns about 1/2 qt of oil every 500 miles or so, he claims that is normal is that normal or should I walk away from the deal? going to go look at the car tomorrow, it also has some body damage.... http://www.sendpix.com/albums/07062711/74bxfp2mtc/ there are the pics of the car,

 

here's the add... he's asking $3000 for it... what ya'll think? good deal or bad deal? what's that body work going to take to get a window to seal? I can live with a dent or two but not duct tape

 

--------------

 

I wish to sell my impeccably maintained Outback fast at a reasonably low price.

The vehicle has been very well taken care of and have meticulous records of oil changes and services from 0miles to the present 185K with one previous owner from 0miles to 175K. The interior is in good condition without any damages or particular wear-points. I have spent about $4K in service for a new timing belt, water pump, clutch, rear brakes, sparkplugs, fuel filter, Bridgestone tires, windshield, tinting, and a fresh head gasket since buying it three months and 10K miles ago. Needless to say, I planned to keep it, but have since lost my financial motivation. The reason is that the dealership recently informed me that it requires a $1600 catalytic converter set to pass CA smog. I figure that someone in OR can take advantage of more lenient laws and we will have a win-win. The other reason causing me to move towards a sell relates to the pending glass and body work repairs as a consequence of a traffic accident. The rear left window and panel + the rear window are broken. The rear window is stabile and the side window area is taped. The vehicle has been driven all over the US this way for two months without any problem. All formalities are settled with my insurance company GEICO who estimates the repairs will cost $3000. I can of course produce all supporting documentation for a buyer who wishes to take advantage of my fleeting patience. The body repairs + the price of the car totals a great buyer's price for a robust Outback in mechanically very sound shape. I will happily describe all technical weaknesses known to me. Let me know if you would like a specific picture other than these:

 

new clutch at 175K,

new rear brakes at 184K,

new sparkplugs at 175K (last 60K),

new fuel filter at 175K,

and the tires (175K) are the best Bridgestones in the shop.

 

Thanks!

The price seems a bit steep. I dont know about out there, but for that car around here I wouldn't pay more than $1700 for and even then I would be very cautious. Any idea where the oil is going? Just with the combination of all that it would need and the mileage it just all seems like too much for the price. Just my 2 cents though. Good luck!

The price seems a bit steep. I dont know about out there, but for that car around here I wouldn't pay more than $1700 for and even then I would be very cautious. Any idea where the oil is going? Just with the combination of all that it would need and the mileage it just all seems like too much for the price. Just my 2 cents though. Good luck!

 

ok thanks for the comment.... and the price tip, anyone else ?

That would be 2.5 top up quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. Sure, it's normal. NOT. Less than one quart would be more like it. Also, this car has the infamous head gasket spittin' 2.5L Phase I engine. This engine also has the guaranteed to leak plastic separater plate. The engine must be removed to replace the plastic plate with the upgraded metal replacement. I wouldn't buy the car unless I could get it cheap, cheap, cheap. And even then, only if I was able, and willing, to do my own engine overhaul. It could be a "hobby" car.

ok thanks for the comment.... and the price tip, anyone else ?

I saw a 98 outback recently traded in for an upgrade..it had some documentation..very clean and no rust...98,000mi and ready to roll...$4000 OBO...unfortunately the car was an auto and my daughter wanted a manual tranny

Well the description does say the HG's were replaced. Hopefully it was done properly and with good gaskets. Might want to make sure the title isn't/won't be branded b/c of whatever that minor accident was. I'd work 'em down in price as much as possible. If it has damage the average buyer isn't going to want to mess with it so that could be your opportunity.

 

Also check for torque bind.

 

Also check for torque bind.

 

sorry this is a dumb question but, what is that?

Well, torque bind is a common topic, but basically it is driving the vehicle in tight turns forward and reverse in a dry parking lot. It should make the turns with little or no throttle. If you have to really gas it or you feel any binding, popping, etc., it may be torque bind.

 

If it's an AT make sure the FWD fuse isn't installed. All tires should match size and tread wear (ideally within 1/4" circumference).

Well, torque bind is a common topic, but basically it is driving the vehicle in tight turns forward and reverse in a dry parking lot. It should make the turns with little or no throttle. If you have to really gas it or you feel any binding, popping, etc., it may be torque bind.

 

If it's an AT make sure the FWD fuse isn't installed. All tires should match size and tread wear (ideally within 1/4" circumference).

 

 

ok and if it has touque bind that means what? it's a manual trans btw

That would be 2.5 top up quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. Sure, it's normal. NOT. Less than one quart would be more like it. Also, this car has the infamous head gasket spittin' 2.5L Phase I engine. This engine also has the guaranteed to leak plastic separater plate. The engine must be removed to replace the plastic plate with the upgraded metal replacement. I wouldn't buy the car unless I could get it cheap, cheap, cheap. And even then, only if I was able, and willing, to do my own engine overhaul. It could be a "hobby" car.

 

 

Ok I've never heard of a plastic separater plate... where is it and what does it do or not do? also the head gaskets were replaced by dealership, he has receipts he is going to bring....

Yes the oil separator plate (aka rear main seal retainer) from the factory is plastic on those years. They can leak. Metal is good and it's good if it is already a metal one in there.

 

If the HG's were done at the dealer, they almost certainly used OEM Subaru gaskets. Hopefully they are the new style multi-layer steel. There is a way to tell, some kind of tab on them.

 

If it has torque bind, that is bad. It can be varying degrees of bad. On the MT's common causes are mismatched tires or improper towing.

Yes the oil separator plate (aka rear main seal retainer) from the factory is plastic on those years. They can leak. Metal is good and it's good if it is already a metal one in there.

 

If the HG's were done at the dealer, they almost certainly used OEM Subaru gaskets. Hopefully they are the new style multi-layer steel. There is a way to tell, some kind of tab on them.

 

If it has torque bind, that is bad. It can be varying degrees of bad. On the MT's common causes are mismatched tires or improper towing.

 

 

I did ask him if it leaks oil at all and he said no no oil leaking so it must be burning it....

 

does anyone know what I need to look for in the head gaskets? or will it say on the service receipt?

 

so basically just put it in first turn tight and let it go with no throttle and see what it does? if I have to give it much then not good sign I take it?

You can have to give it a little bit to get through the turns. But you feel binding, popping, wheels hopping, etc that's bad. If it has torque bind, on an MT there isn't much you can do to reverse it.

 

For the oil consumption, a cylinder compression test might be in order. Also it could be as easy as a bad/gummed up pcv valve.

You can have to give it a little bit to get through the turns. But you feel binding, popping, wheels hopping, etc that's bad. If it has torque bind, on an MT there isn't much you can do to reverse it.

 

For the oil consumption, a cylinder compression test might be in order. Also it could be as easy as a bad/gummed up pcv valve.

 

 

ok is there a way to test the PCV Valve? besides just replacing it?

also guys what 's your opinion of a good deal as far as pricing goes....

Well, when you pull the hose off the pcv valve if you see a lot of grime and oil in there that might be bad. Some say if you shake the pcv valve and it rattles it's OK. But an oem pcv valve is only like $7 so might as well just replace it.

Well, when you pull the hose off the pcv valve if you see a lot of grime and oil in there that might be bad. Some say if you shake the pcv valve and it rattles it's OK. But an oem pcv valve is only like $7 so might as well just replace it.

 

 

ok you guys sure have given me a lot to think about and check out tomorrow! Thanks! keep it commin!

Another thing you may want to consider is what the normal blue book value is for this car and then see what a body shop would charge you to repair the body damage. It may help you decide a fair offer price for it. After looking at the pictures it looks like the car has some potential of being a nice ride after repairs are done on it.

Another thing you may want to consider is what the normal blue book value is for this car and then see what a body shop would charge you to repair the body damage. It may help you decide a fair offer price for it. After looking at the pictures it looks like the car has some potential of being a nice ride after repairs are done on it.

 

 

KBB Fair is $6000 Good is $6900 and Excellent is $7600 repairs he said Gieco estimated $3100 in repairs he has that estimate for me to look at tomorrow....

 

so.... that brings price down to $1300 - $1700 ($3100 for body damage and $1600 (his quote) for the Cats) ..... is that just redicusilly low or what? not taking into consideration the oil consumption....

so.... that brings price down to $1300 - $1700 ($3100 for body damage and $1600 (his quote) for the Cats) ..... is that just redicusilly low or what? not taking into consideration the oil consumption....

 

It's not ridiculously low if he accepts it!

 

Buyers are probably not going to be lining up to grab it, so, if you like it . . . 1) make him an offer in that range, 2) make sure he knows how to contact you and 3) go home and wait!

 

Good luck. Hope it works out for the best for you.

Chipper,I would offer him 800.00 - 1000.00 for this car as it doesn't sound like he's being upfront,he either accepts it or doesn't. It is not gonna be pretty when other issues develop.keep looking. John

Chipper,I would offer him 800.00 - 1000.00 for this car as it doesn't sound like he's being upfront,he either accepts it or doesn't. It is not gonna be pretty when other issues develop.keep looking. John

 

that's mighty low.... /me thinks he will be offended

 

PS what's the compression supposed to be in these cars? the book says from 137-175 that's a big range!

who cares if he's offended,you're the one that will be spending the money to get the car up to par.He's obviously gonna take the as is route,why subject yourself to the expense? Get the car cheap enough to fix the defects and you're golden.If you don't have the cajones to back yourself up then step away right now.That's not an insult to you,i'm just trying to help you out,if you feel comfortable then buy it but don't *************** when expenses add up.John

Be patient. Don't force it. There is always a better deal if you can wait. I'm not that familiar with Subaru's just crossed over from the world of Toyota, but that is my advice.

 

I was determined to get a 1995 or 1996 Legacy Wagon with 5 speed. It took a long time, but finally I found exactly what I wanted.

ok guys I called him and called the meeting off tomorrow told him I wasn't going over 1100 and he said ok that's fine if I don't sell it I'll give you call so now I am looking again Thanks for all the help though! I appreciate it a lot!