Next step IMO is Monday we will compare Jets and correctors to what "TheSuckerKing" in Lyons is running in his that runs right at this altitude. JDM or Yeti, pls remind me to pester him on Monday when he is back home.

Next step IMO is Monday we will compare Jets and correctors to what "TheSuckerKing" in Lyons is running in his that runs right at this altitude. JDM or Yeti, pls remind me to pester him on Monday when he is back home.

 

Good thinking man! That is a great idea. Can't wait. I am already excited about it. More jets to look at and tuning ahead.

Looking at the somewhat low vacuum reading of 14.5 inches caught my attention but I forgot where you are located. Since your elevation may be around 5,500 feet I needed to adjust the reading. By adding 1 inch per 1,000 feet from MSL the reading then looks better.

 

In order to get my story right on this dilemma, am I correct in thinking that the only thing worked on or changed (besides the CAT) since the engine was working correctly is the carburator? The disty wasn't removed and replaced, or anything else?

In order to get my story right on this delemma, am I correct in thinking that the only thing worked on or changed (besides the CAT) since the engine was working correctly is the carburator? The disty wasn't removed and replaced, or anything else?

 

You are exactly correct. Engine ran nice and smooth with the old Hitachi. We removed the disty to check timing and so on, but it is correct.

 

FYI, Suckerking apparently runs the air mains at 165/160 and the fuel mains at 140 / 135. Not sure of the order, but those are the numbers.

Thanks for the confirmation TY. I appreciate it.

 

I can only think of a couple things at this point. First thing is just to satisfy me really and is pretty simple to do. Since the disty was pulled and to verify that the disty position is correct could you set the engine to TDC and then check to see if the disty rotor position is where it is supposed to be? The second thing is I think some carbs need a spacer to work correctly. Since I don't really have a lot of carburator experience I am not sure if that will help in this situation or not.

Was just thinking about the eariler comment about "taking off/clutch engagement" I would consider taking a look at the acclerator pump, are you getting a good pump shot when you work the throttle? Lack of pump shot will cause a lean condition untill the mains start flowing. Just something else to check, good luck.

IASUBE

New jets arrived today! yay!

 

I will go down on Friday (hopefully) for the install.

Here are a couple of pics of the carb... Still need to find time to put the new jets in.

 

Weber pictures

 

New wires and an MSD coil. Completely tested it for vacuum leaks. If the new jets don't work, I may just call it with this project.

I notice in the pics that your Electric choke is not hooked up.....

 

should be hooked up to IGN 12V should be able to use the old choke wire....

I notice in the pics that your Electric choke is not hooked up.....

 

should be hooked up to IGN 12V should be able to use the old choke wire....

 

Ermmm... that is Shawn's fault. I would NEVER forget to hook that back up.

Installed the jets and the problem is still there. This has to be something simple but I am just out of ideas.

WAG I

PCV valve spring is weak,

seals at idle then releases as vacuum drops

allows air into intake manifold.

 

Test - place small piece of hose with bolt / plug

on PCV valve.

 

WAG II

PBB (Power Brake Booster) is leaking when

manifold pressure rises (vacuum drops)

Same test as above.

 

Gotta hate this type problem!!

 

Can you put the orig. HiCrappy back on

to see if it's a carb or engine problem.

 

Have to back up and see what caused it.

Hope something helps.

Those are good ideas Skip.

I am pointing at the brake booster as Skip said. I think that could have something to do with it. The brake master cylinder needs to be replaced because the brakes aren't working properly. Hopefully this is the problem with Yeti's car.

Hopefully we can come up with a correct solution to the problem. The kicker here is the problem happened right after the other carb was installed.

The master was in the process of going bad prior to anything being done. The pedal would slowly move toward the floor when stopped. I had a new master to install at the time.

 

We rebuilt the Hitachi, but it would suddenly start to sputter-jerk (mostly between 2-3.5k range) after about 10-15 minutes of driving. The motor wouldn't die, but it would idle roughly at this point, and I would have to rapidly pump the gas pedal to get moving again at all. We thought it would be a problem with the base plate seal, but instead of just doing the simple stuff... yeah, this is pretty much what spawned my harebrained idea to do the Weber swap in the first place.

 

The car actually sat in the shop yard for a good month and a half prior to the actual install. We wheeled it into the garage to begin working on it one Saturday and the brakes wouldn't even release after the EB cable was disconnected. Even then the front and rear would stick, and its worse when the car is on a slight incline.

 

Long story short, it could very well be a BB leak and I certainly didn't even think about that....