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Yeah those are a biotch - depends on the config of your compressor (inboard or outboard). I've found that getting a size larger in V belts usually helps with situations like that. Sometimes the aftermarket ones aren't quite right in size.

 

I was recently spoiled doing the belts on my new Legacy - ribbed belts for his pleasure! :lol:

 

GD

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O gawd I know! v-belt FTL!!

My 1980 rolla has 3 of them, but the length of the adjust-o bolt is as long, or shorter than the loyale's and it fit absolutely perfect.

 

How dumb. I want to know if my AC works! Bloody aftermarkets!

 

Well good to know it isn't just me.

 

yeah, the rear one is a nightmare, i just did mine a few weeks ago. i think i ended up walking it up with two fatty flathead screwdrivers, like putting a tire on. once it was on, it was fairly loose with the the tensioner loose, so even though at one point it seemed impossible, in the end it was fine.

 

good luck!

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I think I damaged it to the point of no returning it. Maybe they'll let me swap it?

 

I put the old belt on (pictures of THAT will be up soon) to test AC and sure enough......it works! hurrah!

 

Tried the slip it on tight so it doesn't move, then bump the whole car while in gear to get the engine to force it on....no-go at all, then I tried the 0.2 seconds of starter and that proved to fail. I have the wrong belt.

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What you have to do is call up subeman90 ..He has a method that can't be beat ..:lol:;) :-p This is him putting the one on my 92 Loyale after a reseal,timing belt,new clutch,oil pump rebuild...etc etc and cookout day:

 

SeptSubaruCookout044.jpg

Wondering how he didn't break that belt when I busted mine with a 12" screw driver not even using the sharp end, just sliding it on.

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Just for reference, because this seems to be common (in my old/current subarus at least)

 

I run one belt, because my idler totally seized on me. When I had two belts, and the thing wasnt shot, I had perfect cold AC. Ever since my idler went south, the AC would SOMETIMES only come on the first few seconds; so I took a looksie. BTW, brand new V-belt. It's already freakin glazed 5,000 miles later.... I wonder why...

 

Seems to be (in my case) if you have inboard AC (AC compressor left to the alternator) the one belt alone will NOT give enough "grip" to turn the compressor, and the pulley will just stay in place with the belt just going over it. Outboard AC may be different, I have no idea. But check the pulley, mark an end with whiteout or a marker, and see what happens when you run the car.

 

Also, in my case at least, the SAME thing happens with my fan clutch/water pump pulley, so be careful! Mark that one and look too just to be sure...

 

Hard part's finding the damned idler assembly... Mine "shattered" the pulley AND ruined the bearing. :dead:

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Get the belt from the dealership, they are a little bit more $$$ but you know it's made to fit your car. I've never had any problems getting the right belt for my car from the dealership :-) Especially the legacies and such that had a different belt depending on what AC system was in it....

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Do you have the tensioner with the adjusting bolt to run the pulley up and down? or the style that has a locking bolt on an arch, and a pivot point bolt to loosen?

 

If it's the later, you'll notice that under the pivot bolt, the tensioner arm has a hex head(17mm?) loosen the pivot bolt, then use a wrench on that shoulder to to get the pulley to really swing to it's max *up* position. in the same manner you can get alot of tension on the belt before tightening the pinch bolt in the arc.

 

 

Seems to be (in my case) if you have inboard AC (AC compressor left to the alternator) the one belt alone will NOT give enough "grip" to turn the compressor, and the pulley will just stay in place with the belt just going over it.

 

OK, if this is stuff you already know, and you're belt really is just slipping forgive me. but here goes

 

AC compressors have a clutch that only engages the pump periodically. When disengaged, the front of the Compressor does not spin. The belt *freewheels* over the pulley. Just the potion of the pulley with the belt on it spins, and this is normal. Then when the clutch engages the you can see the whole pulley spin.

 

Sure this isn't what you're seeing? One belt is plenty good, 99% of cars use just one belt for the AC

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Sure this isn't what you're seeing? One belt is plenty good, 99% of cars use just one belt for the AC

No, I know what he's talking about. With the inboard A/C compressors, the alternator belt sort of just skims over the top of the A/C compressor. Whereas the A/C belt wraps around it. The alternator belt will just slip right over it if its the only belt.

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No, I know what he's talking about. With the inboard A/C compressors, the alternator belt sort of just skims over the top of the A/C compressor. Whereas the A/C belt wraps around it. The alternator belt will just slip right over it if its the only belt.

 

 

Okay, Okay. I think I get what he's saying now. I didn't realize he was talking about running minus the A/C belt. Coffee is still kickin in this morn

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...

Asked for 1 inch bigger...yea...asked for half an inch smaller than the current one....they gave me half inch bigger. BLOODY HELL!...

Well... There are belts with Half inches Long / Short ... But there`s another thing to Think About: the Belt`s Wide. Let me Explain:

Since the EA82`s Belt Pulleys are shaped in a Deep "V" Design, the "Standard" Belts, known also as "A" series, Fits on the Upper Part of the Pulleys, without "Touching" their Buttom; `cos they`re Wider than the Ones I use on my EA82: the "F" Series.

I Use Equivalent Belts of the "F" Series, they gone down the Pulleys to the Buttom, and have More Grip.

So, for the "Inboard" A/C Config, I Use This:

7375Belt-SameF37.jpg?t=1189778606

Which its Number is: 11A0995, you could find it in Another Brand with That Number. is Less Wider and Half inch less Longer (Due to the Bottom of the Pulley Going), but Fits & Performs Better.

And for the Alt`s Belt, I Use This:

7440Belt-sameF43a.jpg?t=1189778610

Which Standard Number is: 11A1120.

I Suggest GoodYear`s "GatorBack" Belts.

Good Luck! :burnout:

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I didn't have this much trouble w/ my inbord AC belts. Yeah I got the wrong size at first, but they wre crappy belts anyway. I am running napa belts of the wider variety. Put it into the first groove, then over to the next one... Whats the hold up? I had to remove the AC pulse sensor( or whatever it is) to fit the fat belts between it and the pullys. And like Gloyale said, use a 17mm wrench on the idler/tensioner arm, then snug the 12mm bolt down.

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I've got inboard A/C, and I've found it helps a lot to put the inner belt on one groove at a time. Put it onto the outer pulley first, starting with the power steering pulley, and finishing with the crankshaft. Then hop it onto the inner groove where it belongs, again starting with the PS pulley.

 

But, as always a big enough belt and having the tensioner fully loose is needed as well.

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okay, i'm going to chime in again since i have removed and replaced my belts three times this weekend trying to get my water pump and timing belts on.

 

i think i have found the -best- method for putting them on, and i thought i'd share. as i said in my previous post the first time i put these belts on i too thought the inner one was too small and spent probably 30 mins prying it on with a lot of cursing and brute force. now i've got my method down.

 

fyi, this in an a loyale, with inboard A/C and PS.

 

on my setup i had the alt unbolted and out of the way already, and i have to say it made it easier for getting the inner belt on. one time i had bolted it in place before doing the belts, and it was harder. having the alt removed made it much easier to pry a 12" flathead on the idler pulley when tightening it, and it also makes hand/tool access to the idler bolt/nut a little bit easier. if i were to do just the belts, i'd take the 2 mins and unbolt the alt to make it easier.

 

so, here's my trick...on the idler pully, push it all the way up and tighten the adjusting nut snuggly, but not really hard. then take out the pivot bolt completely. with the pivot screw removed you can then push the pulley up even further on the pivot side, thus using the adjusting nut/bolt as another pivot. with it in this higher up postion, tighten down the adjuster a bit more to keep it all in place.

 

then put the belt on, starting on the PS and crank side, do all the pulleys except the idler. you'll find this isn't too hard to do. i was able to do it about 95% of the way with just my hands and the last bit was getting the belt from the outer to the inner groove on the AC pulley, which was easy to do with a 12" flathead.

 

once that's all on, use the flathead to push the belt onto the idler. since the idler is the smallest pulley it makes it the easiest to get around. all you need is a mild push of the 12" flathead, just wear gloves in case it slips.

 

after that, put the pivot bolt back, tighten it up and then do the outer belt...which is easy :)

 

cheers

andrew

 

ps. when tigheting the idler pivots and such, try doing it from the drivers side instead of standing in front. it gives you much easier hand access.

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